Held as the symbol of Romanian fashion, Irina Schrotter is no stranger to the Berlin Fashion Week scene, with the brand being launched 21 years ago. Now, with Romanian avant-garde designer Lucian Broscatean taking the reins and designing for the main line, the aesthetic has shifted from delicate evening attire to an edgier, modern womenswear collection.
The collection, titled “Immersed Self”, took its inspiration from Ingmar Berman’s 1966 film, “Persona”, which investigates into the game of psychological play. Using the tension between strength and vulnerability and mixing it with an emotional charge, Broscatean delivered a collection that was as moody as it was serene.
The styling could be seen as perhaps leaning towards the stereotypical, with dark shades of lipstick and somber moods gliding down the runway, reminding us that the attention to styling of a collection is equally as important as the garments themselves. A neutral take on the make up would have been a lighter, cleaner, look, allowing our gaze to fall solely on the clothing rather than the models who were showcasing them.
Sheer, wool, and black & white were the name of the game for this collection, with the show stopper taking the silhouette of the exceptionally well executed cut-out dress that mixed hard angles and lines with a modern hourglass femininity. The fluffy platform heels acted as a playful edition, somehow avoiding the mountain goat look but instead (thankfully) taking the avant-garde route.
Overall it was a coherent collection that maybe could have seen more elements of surprise, but undoubtedly will become a must-have for any of the neo-goths this season.
Written by Amy Binding