For many of us Cruise collections are still a mystery. What is Cruise? A fashion season between seasons? Isn’t it also called Resort? Thankfully Karl Lagerfeld answered all these questions with a juicy 330-foot-long ocean liner metaphor at the Chanel show. ‘Cruise’ he seemed to imply, is about ‘cruise’. But don’t just go and grab that Breton-striped bikini quite yet — surprisingly Cruise 2019 isn’t just about sailor get up, big boats and diamante encrusted lifeboat handbags.
At Louis Vuitton, realness was on trend. The collection might have been inspired by voluminous sculptures at the Fondation Maeght (also the setting of the LV show), but Nicolas Ghesquière brought us back to reality rocking a baby-blue double denim combo, made up of jacket, jeans and white T-shirt, a sly wink to the ever popular casual men’s clothing trend. Feminism was also in this season. Dior’s Diorodeo celebrated Mexican women horse riders who participate in competitive shows called charreada. Traditional 1950s silhouettes were matched with Christian Dior-emblazoned belts and wide-brimmed hats. “Life is a rodeo,” said creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, wearing a black shirt and blue jeans. “You have to learn to stay in the saddle.”
So what, you ask, can we take away from this year’s Cruise shows? Here, SLEEK takes a comprehensive look at the most desirable Resort trends, combining them into a summer style playbook with unlikely new motifs designed to make you the talk of fashion town.
Turn your pet into an accessory
Post-Choupette we thought cats would once again be relegated to a crass representation of mass-market YouTube culture and GIF jokes, but we were wrong. Our feline friends are back and hotter than ever with Nicolas Ghesquière and Grace Coddington’s Louis Vuitton collaboration on silk cat print pyjamas and accessories. Feel free to use your own domestic animal as inspiration for your look — be it a rat, budgie or goldfish. As Ghesquière said himself, “I’m more of a dog person; she’s a cat person.”
Let people know you’re “spiritual”
Fashion is majorly into spirituality right now. If you haven’t described yourself as a witch, had your tarot read or dabbled in evil magic, who even are you? Louis Vuitton flew over a shaman from Brazil to kiss trees and hold off rain storms for the 2019 Cruise show. Now is the time to show people you are way into transcendental enlightenment. Marker pen the word “karma” onto a blank H&M tee, or post Instagram Stories about how much ‘shrooms changed your life.
Don a pair of safety glasses
Much of the style advice here has been abstract. But here is a solid recommendation: don a pair of safety glasses. Remember the oversized Michelin Man puffer jacket trend of 2017? Nicholas Ghesquière wants to evoke that same feeling of safety and protection for summer, it seems, courtesy of oversized protective specs. Imagine a gulf future scenario where dust and dirt wreaks havoc with your eyeliner. Actually don’t, head to Screwfix and pick up a large transparent pair now.
Ranch it up, Mexico style
The message from the Dior show was loud and clear (albeit somewhat controversial on the cultural appropriation front): “ranch it up”. Ride on the equestrian trend to secure your place with those dining at fashion’s high table this summer. Breeches, chaps, saddle bags and jodhpurs are your new best friends. Level up with Mexican references, like iconic sombreros. The look says; “I have a princess complex, but I’m embracing it for as a form of cultural catharsis.”
Wear you books with pride
Thanks to Diet Prada it is now impossible to just copy a look you saw on Instagram. Books show your references are ancient, and therefore legit. Gucci’s Alessandro Michelle used Dante’s The Divine Comedy – a funny version of the Bible – for his collection, and even pasted quotes onto clothes to show he’d read it. Grab a copy of something IRL from Motto, Donlon, or Do You Read Me?and papier-mâché your own extracts onto clothes, highlighting a few key paragraphs for good measure.
Set yourself on fire
Perhaps Alessandro Michele was also drawing his references from Dante when he literally set the Gucci catwalk ablaze. In fact the backdrop for the show in Alyscamps, a 4th century Roman burial ground turned Christian cemetery, was illuminated by hundreds of candles and candelabras. Meanwhile, at LV, Nicholas Ghesquière hired Pat McGrath to paint a flame emoji on models’ foreheads, confirming the fact that fire is so hot right now.
Go big or go home
If you are going to wear a hat this season, go large. Bless your head with an XXXL or plus-size Trapper-style hat, like those seen in the Prada 2019 collection. Yes, a Canadian Muskrat hat, but bigger. The fact that it is summer and 50% of body heat is lost via the head area should not be an issue. These hats will go with everything, from leather skirts to 70s polo tops. Suffer for your fashion.