Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin is a wrap, next stop Paris. But before the fashion caravan moves on, it’s time to recap some of the week’s highlights and trace certain trends in the development of the local design scene. (Yes, we actually paid attention, albeit the constant flow of pink bubbly).
First off, Lala Berlin – a Berlin fashion veteran and staple – presented a wonderfully well-rounded collection that had many members of the press lauding as their best ever. Designer Leyla Piedayesh used a vivacious colour palette of pink, coral red and blue, though the season’s must-have combinations of black and white didn’t fail to appear on the runway either (pictured above). The strongest items were the full length wool coats and bomber jackets in calm pink, or with Lala’s signature prints that were a hybrid of ethno-patterns from Indio to Palestinian this time.
Every season has its positive surprise presentation – one that you go to because it’s right between two other shows and you might as well have a look , but that you then find yourself admiring for its creativity and excellent execution. This season it was Berlin newcomer Blaenk, founded by Silke Geib and Nadine Möllenkampn, who, after stints with Margiela, Demeulemeester or Viktor & Rolf, are certainly no newbies when it comes to professionalism and creative design. The studio presentation was set up as a stroll through imaginary forest, with birds chirping in the background, and the garments looking like mystic forest creatures and shrubbery. Transparency and delicate hand-made details showed Blaenk’s faculty for carrying out deviceful ideas, while the masculine oversized jackets and tailored pieces, their expertise.
We published a more thorough review of Augustin Teboul’s collection here, but it seems justified to mention them again because the duo was a positive surprise like the one described above only three years ago when they first appeared on the fashion week schedule. The new collection included more individually wearable pieces that can be combined for a more subdued look, or worn as a total look if you’re opting for statement pieces. The ingenuity, and ability to keep innovating within the constraints of their very unique signature make Augustin Teboul a cut above the rest.
And last but not least, the parties. There was no shortage of after-hours entertainment during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, but one of the best parties – one of the artiest too – was the 12th anniversary of the Shotview Photographic agency at the St. Johannes-Evangelist Kirche on Auguststrasse, where the fashion and art crowds mingled between huge blow-up photo by luminaries represented by the agency: Horst Diekerdes, Erwin Wurm, Markus Pritzi, Peter Rigaud, Ronald Dick and others. Many of those were also in attendance (Mr Pritzi, for instance, is also a Sleek regular), and enjoyed some music from DJs Niki Pauls and Sebastian Schlachter, quaffing champagne into the small hours.
We also loved the strong collections by Vladimir Karaleev and Michael Sontag, who both maintain their very own clear visions that they keep pushing forward convincingly. Slowly but surely, it’s becoming undeniable that Berlin does in fact boast a local lineage of fashion designers that justify setting the focus on the German capital twice a year. It still remains to see whether these designers will get the support they need in develop from an established scene into a thriving industry.