For anyone who finds it tedious to trek out to the same staid venues season after season for show after show, Friday’s Style Nite at the Friedrichstadtpalast theater provided an entirely different kind of experience, along the lines of a fashion cabaret. But all the musical acts, open bars and general extravagance aside, the fashion was still center stage. The first two shows came courtesy of Lala Berlin and Kaviar Gauche, and both were among their best yet.
Lala’s opening look, a layered silver Lurex and wool ensemble of top, scarf, skirt, leggings and cardigan, played with transparency and set the tone for the proportion and light vs. heavy fabric scheme that dominated the show. Throughout, chiffon leggings were paired with mini skirts and delicate tops (unusual for winter) but balanced out by the chunky, innovative knits the label is known for. A series of slinky bias-cut silk evening gowns completed the crafty-meets-vampy collection. After taking her bow, Leyla Piedayesh had to come back out to coax the models off-stage – they were standing in a half-circle without any signs of going anywhere. Apparently the cliché of model-as-actor is true because these aspiring starlets weren’t willing to surrender their fifteen minutes of fame.
Kaviar Gauche began their show with a performance by a dancer clad in a greatcoat and hat who quickly disrobed to reveal a custom mirrored bodysuit. A series of lasers trained on her from above, transforming her body into a human discoball. A collective gasp went up from the easily entertained audience – who needs Avatar in 3-D when the simple refraction of light will suffice? After writhing around for a good five minutes or so, the dancer sashayed off the runway and a flock of models took her place, but her influence remained – the entire collection was swathed in a shimmer of Swarovski crystals. It was full-on nightclub fashion, but well-executed in luxurious materials, and party girls across the world will be more than pleased to step out in any number of looks the collection proposed. For those who head out of the house before midnight, the frothy confections were balanced out by strictly tailored jackets and scalloped leather trousers. And, as usual, the label offered a winning selection of accessories, especially of shoes, which included thigh-high bedazzled suede boots, serpentine sandals with gold hardware and gold-studded leather pumps.
The night’s most brilliant conceit was to embrace the concept of fashion show as popular entertainment. By playing to that idea’s strengths instead of sending out self-serious attempts to establish insider credibility, the Style Nite’s participating labels made the case for what can potentially distinguish Berlin Fashion Week – the same quality that draws so many visitors to the city, an unrestrained sense of fun.
Pictures of Kaviar Gauche show and additional pictures of Lala Berlin show will be added January 24
