Although the Dutch label Avelon has been around for a while, its success under the creative direction of Erik Frenken really made it a brand to watch out for. After a stint at Alberta Ferretti’s atelier, Frenken joined Viktor & Rolf and worked as Head Designer of Women’s wear for 4 years. In 2008 Frenken started as Design Director for Avelon and in 2010 he took over the brand to develop and extend it, taking the opportunity to establish his own unique look. He often refers to his own vision as “the duct tape cocktail dress” – a concept which unites the rawness of the streets with high end fashion. This contrast is fundamental for the designs of Erik Frenken and is at the DNA of Avelon. Sleek wanted to get a closer look.
sleek: What can we expect from the current collection?
Erik Frenken: The new spring/summer collection works around the balance between elegant designs and the cool and roughness of the streets. I think an outfit is cooler when it is not polished. There should be a kind of “I don’t care” attitude in the look. Last summer we began to use pop colours like the bright blue and this season we added bright green. We mixed these bright colours with dirty ones to get the Avelon palette.
I always go to London or Berlin to find the look that would set the tone for the entire collection. London because there are lots of cool places to find inspiration, and Berlin because it changes so fast, there is always something to discover. In London I found this vintage, stiff jersey oversized top that someone attached a big silk flap with rough edges to. This was the start of a part of the collection.
sleek: In the spring/summer 2012 collection, clean and edged details create a clear, graphically inspired story. Could that be regarded as a reaction to, or a side effect of having worked for Viktor& Rolf for 4 years?
EF: Of course my previous experience makes me the designer that I am today. The clean and edged details and forms is a reflection of myself and my view on the world. In a way, of course, it reflects part of my personal growth as a designer, and Viktor& Rolf is also a big part of that. But one of the reasons I started Avelon was to be able to create clothing that is closer to myself and more accessible to my friends.
sleek: Alexander McQueens’s collection were provocative, Miuccia Prada’s are luxurious and Raf Simmons is edgy yet simple. Every designer has a signature. What’s Erik Frenken’s?
EF: My signature is the signature of Avelon: the duct tape-cocktail dress. Luxury garments with rough edges and delicate elements. Avelon is an affordable brand that’s always special and distinguished, and which creates a directional and season-less look for every occasion.
sleek: You won the “Dutch Prix de la mode” award last October as best Dutch designer. What role is the award going to play in your and in Avelon’s progress?
EF: It’s great to get recognition for your work and the work of my team, especially from professionals like Marie Claire. But it’s a steppingstone. I always say that we’re only a few centimetres down the two-kilometre line. My ambition is to build a strong, recognisable international brand that is globally appreciated by professionals and consumers. We know where we want to go and we are willing to go the extra miles.
By Ga-Young Park
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