Images Courtesy of Proenza Schouler.
PROENZA SCHOULER
It’s seems the quiet luxury trend can no longer be kept quiet; with their SS24 show Proenza Schouler flaunts their prowess at creating looks that walk this delicate line. Monochromatic pieces made their way down the catwalk, with detailings showing the designer’s ability to play on the subtleties that build a garment, including elements simply to be styled. Trousers with a double waistband and dynamic belt bags sauntered across the audience’s eyes, minimalist and effortlessly Proenza, a name synonymous with chic. This season, the brand also introduced their first monogram, marking the evolution of the New York-cool label, and gearing up for the future.
Images Courtesy of Tory Burch.
TORY BURCH
The whimsical architecture of the Gilder Center, a part of New York’s Museum of Natural History, built a sense of wonder, as fashion editors, influencers, and celebs swirled around, immersed in chatter about the ongoings of the week. Tory Burch’s SS24 runway brought guests to the spacious venue promising to ‘keep it light’. As the show began, set to an upbeat tune, that is exactly what the designer did; creating voluminous garments that remained lightweight, the label maintained their minimalistic aesthetic while exploring a variety of structures, adding twists to the classic staples that built the brand. Clean blazers and micro-mini dresses were further elevated by accessories such as sunglasses and handbags shaped to fit the form of the body.
Images Courtesy of Helmut Lang.
HELMUT LANG
What makes a Helmut Lang show? Peter Do’s debut as creative director placed the ’90s cult favorite, whose collections were known for taking the industry off the beaten path, in the hot seat: the most hungrily anticipated show of the season. With notable fashion critics close to Do such as Brenda Hashtag raising expectations pre-runway, goosebumps were raised upon entering the open space of the Skylight building filled with the crème de la crème of fashion editors and NYC-it girls; even before a single look was presented. When a hush finally settled over the crowd and the first looks came out, the integrity within the production gleamed; even the way the models walked felt like words gathering to form an allegoric story. Do infused his own elegiac notions into the brand, guiding viewers to reference the iconic 90’s graphic tees of Helmut Lang’s while tailoring the text to include snippets of introspective poetry. In an extremely referential collection, Peter Do respected the legacy of the brand, and all of the technical detailings that make a Helmut Lang garment.
Images Courtesy of Lucky Jewel.
LUCKY JEWEL
Set in St. Marks Church, the SS24 show of LES-favorite brand Lucky Jewel brought together those from across New York’s eclectic fashion scene. The brand’s second collection, titled ‘New Outfit’ hinged upon tension; through their DIY design process and use of unconventional materials, the trio at the helm of the label reflect on what it means to put an outfit together in this day and age. New York street style seems to ebb out of the looks, as the city is known for breaking the rules in terms of dressing up casual pieces, allowing an alluring identity clash to form. With an array of styles including mini skirts and low-waisted trousers hitting the runway, the show’s experimental take used juxtaposition to capture the contemporary.
Images Courtesy of Dion Lee.
DION LEE
Coming from Berlin, alien figures dressed in ‘edgy’, all-black club clothes are so last season, or from 30 years ago. But, Australian designer Dion Lee is not one to fall in with the crowd. Pushing utilitarian detailings and combining them with studs, gathers, and leather (the elements that make up most of my daily outfits), Lee cuts silhouettes that would leave any hardcore party-goer with stars in their eyes. The hoodie was featured as part of many looks, adding the twist of intricate draping to the oversized piece that acts as a layering staple. With luminous makeup and equipped to the teeth with accessories, the models brought the monochromatic and metal garments to life.
Images Courtesy of Dauphinette.
DAUPHINETTE
Protection was the theme of designer Olivia Cheng’s SS24 collection for Dauphinette; the looks play with the idea of social constructs as a form of protection, using a bold color palette and eccentric shapes to subvert the ways in which humans look to comfort and seek safety. Ironically the collection presented in a swanky NY hotel was anything but safe. Guests were drawn into the designer’s world as live jazz played and drinks with delicate flowers on top were served. Though the garments referenced a variety of diverse styles including the wedding dress and suit of a Wall St. banker, the outtakes were sophisticated and cohesive. The footwear stole some of the spotlight, transforming the classic pump with textiles such as knits and appliqués.
Images Courtesy of PRISCAVera.
For their SS24 collection, PRISCAVera looks back. The instinctual connection to clothing that can form at a young age is captured through the show’s use of dynamic prints and well-known pieces. Like a flip through a photo album, or trying on your mother’s jewelry as a child, the runway highlighted the relationship of tactile objects with nostalgia. Researching the information that a garment can hold, and how it can used as a tool for communication, the label combines a more analytical look with a quintessential love for fashion. Translucent materials covered in snake and cheetah are mixed and matched with glittery tanks, weaving the audience through a collection filled with sentiment.
Images Courtesy of Collina Strada.
COLLINA STRADA
Collina Strada brought something often unseen to the runway: the smile. Or to be more exact, the eerily oversized artificial grin that perfectly fits the theme of the collection being designed by AI. Covered in frills intermingling with tattered plaid, and ruffles hemmed in lace, the lavish pastel pieces combined with the models flashing their teeth backed the brand’s emphasis on the social and environmental issues occurring while the world smiles on, trying to make it through the day. Using a nuanced approach to discussing topics such as climate change and human rights, the garments spotlight feminine energy through materiality. Sheer fabrics, florals and checks create the chaos in which we all exist, still capturing the softness of Mother Earth and the strength she holds.
Images Courtesy of Bad Binch TONGTONG.
Images Courtesy of COS.
COS
Sunset rippled across the Hudson River and set through the windows of Manhattan’s Classic Car Club, where COS hosted their AW23 Ready-To-Wear show. The models walked out on the red shaggy carpeting, the lighting of the sky haloing them, reflecting the simple sophistication the cult favorite label is known for. Big names such as Leon Dame graced the runway, styled in refined silhouettes with elements of tailoring and the addition of feathers adding a touch of an almost McQueen feeling to the collection. With 42 looks, a range of textures and prints were utilized, creating a diverse sampling of the type of styles that caused the COS ‘craze’ of recent years. And of course, the collection wouldn’t be complete without accessories; some models cradled handbags while others were outfitted with leather totes.