Bobby Kolade, SS16
Bobby Kolade’s collections are unmistakeable, landmark events at Berlin Fashion Week. The young designer’s approach to colour, structure and detailing stands out a mile, as well as his more innovative approach to presentation, that creates a beginning, middle and an end for the audience to experience.
For his SS16 collection, the Berlin-based designer mixed bright, off-primary colours with mirrored silver pvc, tailored into smart and girly silhouettes, which showed the influence of his West African heritage as well as the icons he grew up with. The Nineties post-modern level of performativity was echoed in the space (the Sophiensaele dance studio) and the props (the whole floor was covered in silver confetti). During the show, the designer also opted to create a “palate cleanser” – one standout outfit where the model paused, spotlit, in the middle of the stage. We spoke to him more to find out why.
Bobby Kolade SS16
What was the inspiration?
We started with researching some prominent African photographers. A lot of the images of Africa that I’ve grown up with were taken by Western photographers, so instead we wanted to hunt out photographers like Seydou Keita. Most important to the collection, though, was Leonce Raphael Agbodjelou, he’s from Benin and takes fantastic portraits, that are just full of colour and energy, which are so inspiring to see.
So we started with those images from Benin and Yoruba, Nigeria, which brought the form of the “boubou”, traditional Nigerian gowns. That was the starting point for the colours and some of the shapes. As the season went on, we added more stuff in from the late Nineties and early Two thousands from my beloved hip hop and RnB idols – Aaliyah, Lil Kim, Missy Elliot, Eve etc. It’s that unapologetic coolness and ease with what they’re doing. I think more in the past than now, you’ve got these prominent personalities, this character that you see in their clothing and makeup and attitude. That’s the energy that I wanted to portray in this collection.
Bobby Kolade SS16
What was your approach to colour in the collection?
We weren’t allowed to use any black. We had a ban on it! Not a single black sole! It was quite a challenge at times, because finding black fabrics is easier.
How did you come up with the staging of the performance?
The whole collection was about performing, theatre and dance, and we’re in the Sophiensaele, a beautiful location where I’ve seen lots of great dance pieces, and we wanted to celebrate that. Obviously, confetti is part of the game, part of the party spirit!
Bobby Kolade SS16
And the spotlight moment in the middle of the show [where one of the models was spotlit in a floor length transparent gown, draped over her head]?
It’s something I miss in fashion shows in general, to have some kind of drama – it was a bit of a breather this special outfit. I thought it was important to give the audience a moment to take it all in, have a moment and then move on.
This progress, or narrative, is important in anything you do whether it’s a song, or film. I think many fashion shows can get dreary, especially when it’s 40 outfits and the models are walking in a straight line to and fro. That’s boring! It’s time to do something more interesting.
Bobby Kolade SS16
Tell us more about the sequins on that outfit, what was the pattern of?
I’m not telling anyone what the pattern is – just enjoy it! It was hand-embroidered in India.
I noticed some themes in your collection from this one and the last – is that something you intend as a designer – to have some kind of a trademark?
No, it just happens. I don’t draw anything, I speak to the team and we work together and develop things together, it’s a very intuitive, very spontaneous process. You’ll never see a whole collection drawn out. It works together, just because it’s all “in my handwriting”.
More: Exclusive Backstage Highlights From Berlin Fashion Week SS16
More: Interview With Julian Zigerli In The Lead up to His SS16 show