Courtesy of @ulyanasergeenkocouture.
Russian couturier Ulyana Sergeenko isn’t afraid of being called “extra”—it’s the type of attitude you need to send sequinned cat-breasted evening gowns and pastel boas made of chiffon-printed money down the runway—so instead of dulling herself down for her Spring 2020 couture show, showcased yesterday in Paris, she recruited women who have made a name for themselves by never being seen in anything casual. Photographer and model Nadia Lee Cohen looked completely at home emerging from a plume of sea foam ostrich feathers and graphic, lower lash-heavy mod makeup, while burlesque icon Dita Von Teese closed out the show in a black ‘40s style dress that looked like it was plucked out of her vintage wardrobe, until you spot the cat-head detail in the neckline and martini-glass headpiece that is.
The show had an overall cat lady theme, but the kind of cat lady who is rarely sitting at home and will leave her kitty-millions in the will. Multiple incarnations of boas came down the runway, finished with plush cat heads and paws to resemble vintage Hollywood’s’ fox stoles. While wearing a stuffed animal could easily venture into costume territory, it is clear that Sergeenko’s couture version took months of hand-beading and craftsmanship.
Courtesy of @ulyanasergeenkocouture.
While references for the collection ranged from the ‘40s to ‘the 60s, touching on everything from Rita Hayworth to Brigitte Bardot, a playful colour scheme and attitude kept the feathered and crystal-encrusted garments feeling modern. The over-the-top looks were accentuated with geometric eyeliner looks by London-MUA Val Garland, big bows, bigger hair and tiny glittering tiaras featuring cats or monograms.