Lichting Grad Show 2022 winner Ruben Jurriën. Courtesy of Lichting.
Last month Copenhagen celebrated a roster of talented, young designers that are shaping the city, but its neighbour Amsterdam toasted to its community of established Dutch designers, that are guiding the new generation of Dutch designers to an international spotlight.
With names such as avant-garde couturiers Viktor & Rolf and contemporary brand Wandler highlighting the week, Amsterdam Fashion Week displayed unity between the tight-knit community, with various designers spotted in attendance at fellow shows and presentations. Equally, the Amsterdam fashion scene showed support for sustainable design practices, with many designers adapting to 100% recycled textiles and re-purposed objects. However, the unofficial message was no doubt, love, whether a celebration of love for shoes at the Steve Madden presentation at the Redlight district club, Moulin Rouge, curated by Duran Lantink, the love realised through a journey, or love in its purest form – indiscriminating and inclusive – through the eyes of fashion.
1/OFF. Image Courtesy of Amsterdam Fashion Week.
The week started with Martan, a circular brand set in the backdrop of a 107-year-old hotel, Grand Hotel Amrâth Amsterdam. The brand is a 100% sustainable brand, turning textile waste from old luxury hotels into new garments. Taking inspiration from Amrâth’s architecture and history, the new collection made references to the Amsterdam School style of architecture (1915-1940), largely influenced by expressionism and characterised by clean and simple forms with ornamental windows, doors, and staircases that verify the craftsmanship of the constructor. Nearby at Contemporary Art Space in Amsterdam Noord, 1/OFF had its first show ‘Otherworld,’ tackling four types of vintage items; denim, tablecloths, scarves, and old suits, transforming each category into new silhouettes of wearable designs. From repurposed damask tablecloths and Egyptian cotton sheets in the vision of Martan or vintage-to-new luxury pieces of 1/OFF, the start of the week disproved the belief that luxury can only be experienced with the new.
Image Courtesy of Wandler.
In the evening, Wandler celebrated its 5th birthday joined by an international gathering at the Van Eesteren Museum, collaborating with artist Elsemarijn Bruys to create a series of inflatable installations in no other than the signature Wandler apple green on the exterior of the museum. The event took inspiration from Luc Bessen’s 1997 film, The Fifth Element, “where the fifth element stands as a symbol of love, a feeling that has no boundaries, no clear explanations, but still exists” and the feeling was recreated on the dancefloor that set the tone for the days to come.
Pandora's Jukebox at Wandler 5 year anniversary party. Image Courtesy of Wandler.
One year after rebranding, Róhe Frames returned to Amsterdam with a fresh perspective, collaborating with the textile artist Fransje Gimbrère presented at the pop-up space. The textile installation was made with natural fibres exploring “the many possibilities in which a single yarn can be manipulated by hand into a new form […] Fransje shows the beauty and versatility of what seems a simple occurrence.” With a physical touch of the brand’s DNA, the curated space incorporated vintage chairs from the head office, alongside upcycled vintage objects and tea rituals, reflecting Rohé’s philosophy on timelessness.
Róhe Frames: Exhibition & Pop-up space. Courtesy of Róhe Frames.
Róhe Frames: Textile installation by Fransje Gimbrère. Courtesy of Róhe Frames.
Róhe Frames: Exhibition & Pop-up space. Courtesy of Róhe Frames.
Viktor & Rolf also opted for an experiential presentation, with organised bike tours across five different spaces each representing the core elements of the brand; fragrance, womenswear, window displays, tailoring and bridal. By night, Steve Madden took the crowd to the Redlight district club, Moulin Rouge, for performances or rather, declarations of love for the head-turning, skyscraping heels fit for any hostess with the mostest in a line up of performers curated by Dutch designer Duran Lantink.
10 finalists at Lichting 2022. Image Courtesy of Lichting.
The celebration of love continued at Lichting Graduation Show 2022, founded in 2007 which brings together the best students of the Netherlands’ fashion academies. After passing the Dutch jury, the 10 finalists presented their collections on the runway that saw multi-angled perspectives and interpretations. This year’s €10,000 award went to Ruben Jurriën, for his collection Pak van Mijn Hart, a play on Dutch words that translates to “take my heart.” Jurriën explains the collection was inspired by “the image of clothing in today’s society” that leaves a feeling of insecurity for some that don’t fit into the made-up “image.” Playing with old tailoring methods and a little bit of “fashion engineering,” as Jurriën explains, Pak van Mijn Hart addresses the challenges of dictated sizes in the fashion industry by innovating clothes that fit a wide range of sizes; from XXS to XXL, and in his words “share the love and positivity of fashion to everyone.”
Ruben Jurriën. Image Courtesy of Lichting.
Already planning ahead, Jurriën says, “it’s important [all] people can wear my collection. I see the availability [of sizes] as a necessity in fashion. I’ve been excluded before and for me, the main thing is that I can continue to create collections where everyone can wear my clothing. Everybody should be able to wear it, no matter the size.” Looking at next year’s Amsterdam fashion week where Jurriën will present a full runway collection on the official schedule as part of the winning programme, he states that inclusivity in not just sizes, but the representation of models, communities and people is just as equally important to the designer. “Next year, I hope to have an open call casting and a show that’s open to the public – as I said, I want everyone to be invited.”