Why Berlin Fashion Week deserves your attention

It’s no secret that Berlin Fashion Week is largely seen as the “black sheep” of Fashion Weeks. It’s been accused of lacking innovation and development, and not exactly representing the alternative creativity that the city is renowned for. The German capital, however, is very much aware of the fact that it’s neither Paris, London or Milan, nor does it want to be. Although BFW may still be in the early stages of establishing itself as a real fashion event, the city itself has a number of strings to its bow that are increasingly emerging as indicator’s of Berlin’s industry potential.

It goes without saying that one of Berlin’s strongest marketing assets is its scruffy-cool image. Berlin has created a inimitable brand that it can – and should – capitalise on. It’s this intangible allure of roughness, edginess and liberation that’s continually fascinating to fashion aficionados because it’s disruptive, anti-conformist and ultimately, embodies an escapism that even the most impeccable fashion mavens crave. And while being part of the BFW  schedule doesn’t translate into instant success like it does in Paris or New York, it provides up-and-coming designers with a chance to get noticed and maximise this perception of Berlin to their own advantage.

This image of Berlin is rooted in the physicality and architectural veins of the city. By choosing quintessentially Berlin venues — techno clubs, disused industrial spaces, theatres — fashion labels can add another layer to their collections that’s not possible in the prim neoclassicism of typical fashion week venues in other capitals. At last year’s winter edition of BFW, Croatian designer Damir Doma presented his collection within the hallowed halls of Berghain; Lutz Huelle, who ordinarily shows at Paris, also presented at the infamous club during BFW’s summer instalment. Tecno snobs might scoff at fashion shows taking place in the city’s throbbing techno temples, but it’s the sort of move that makes a Berlin version of fashion week truly Berlin. Berghain’s notoriously tight door policy only adds to the hype around the shows, as for some it might be the only time they can get into the club. Berlin may not have a Bryant Park or a Palais Royal, but it does have venues with cultural cache that can help cement a brand.

Spend more than a few days in Berlin and you’ll know that Berliners have their own take on style and trends that’s not dictated solely by big brands and fast fashion. In recent years, a number of popular trends have had a deep cultural link to the German capital, namely the clubwear aesthetic. Since the ‘90s, Berlin has been synonymous with a dark, underground look — think leathers, chunky boots, mesh, cargo trousers, tight tops, bulky outerwear — and increasingly this look is appropriated, either subtly or more obviously, by fashion designers elsewhere, bringing the stylistic codes formerly confined to hidden basements straight to the public catwalk. The same applies to ideas of sexuality and identity. Queer influences and genderless dressing have been a part of Berlin’s DNA as long as the currywurst or späti have been. Because Berliners have long rejected the love for luxe, and elitism is frowned upon, dressing down and like you don’t give a damn is the predominant sartorial choice. Here, scruffiness is a statement. It plays into this whole idea that “you can be whoever you want to be” — a maxim cherished by both locals and newcomers alike.

On the other side of the spectrum, taking a closer look at some of the fashion circle’s favourites such as William Fan, Odeeh or Nobi Talai, these Berlin brands have always offered contemporary, strong and liberated ideas of femininity, addressing the modern woman in the way that women actually want to be addressed. It’s no surprise then, that some stores put Fan’s designs next to Céline, or rather @oldceline.

If Berlin has still some way to go in terms of attracting new designers and fostering fresh talent, it’s growing status as a fashion tech hub cannot be dismissed. Every 20 minutes, a start-up is founded in the city, making it a tech epicentre in Europe. Every season, the FashionTech Berlin Conference attracts thousands of international attendees and is a centre for digital transformation in fashion. Fashion brands keen on smart textiles, innovative business solutions and cutting-edge technologies combine with companies who specialise in this area to see what’s possible.

Lest we forget, Berlin only became one city again less than 30 years ago, and its fashion week is not even a teenager (the first BFW was held in 2007). Over time, the biannual event has been met with both great anticipation and even greater scepticism — some Berlin-based labels, like GmbH, 032c and Ottolinger deliberately choose not to show in their hometown on account of Berlin’s shortage of press coverage and buyers. To some extent, you can’t really blame them. The former main show venue at Brandenburger Tor failed, the Erika-Hess-Eisstadion was even more unpopular amongst the fashion crowd, and Kaufhaus Jahndorf felt sort of improvised.

Still, as the number of exciting names — such as London-based Sri Lankan designer Amesh Wijesekera, who showed this morning at E-Weerk, or dutch label Botter, who presented in July — taking part in BFW gets higher, Brexit threatens to separate London from Europe and Paris schedules gets more and more crowded, it would be unwise to discount the growing fashion merits of the German capital completely.