'The Thong.' Courtesy of Rudi Gernreich.
In the 1960s, during a time where French haute couture traditions were the criterion, Austrian designer Rudi Gernreich defied the rules of fashion. Leading with a democratic philosophy and informed by his training as a dancer, Gernreich introduced styles that challenged the conservative sartorial codes of the decade.
Experimenting with the social and technical restrictions in modern clothing, he used his knowledge of dancewear and the body to challenge these norms that led to his most innovative designs – the Monokini, ‘No Bra’ bra, Pubikini and ‘The Thong’ bathing suit. He was also a founding member of the Mattachine Society (an early gay rights organisation in the United States), an activist for the LGBTQI+ community and used his clothing as a social statement for sexual freedom.
His influence is widespread in contemporary fashion and his namesake brand Rudi Gernreich continues to embody the designer’s ethos in “destroying archaic values which are unreal for today” that saw him cement his role as a pioneer of fashion design. To celebrate his 100th birthday anniversary, we select the late designer’s most significant fashion moments.
Peggy Moffitt wearing the Monokini. Courtesy of Rudi Gernreich.
Monokini, Pubikini & The Thong Swimsuit
Rudi Gernreich designed the Monokini, a swimsuit that consisted of shorts with two thin straps that crossed at the front of the chest that exposed the breasts. In his interview with Women’s Wear Daily in the 1960s, he predicted that women won’t be wearing bikini tops in the next five years. Many fashion critics disregarded his comments at the time, however, with the collaboration with model and muse Peggy Moffitt, the Monokini went on to sell 3,000 pieces to collectors and the controversy surrounding the swimsuit placed Gernreich in the media spotlight, which he welcomed as a platform to promote sexual liberation in men’s and womenswear. Following the topless swimsuit, Gernreich presented the Pubikini, a highcut bikini bottom originally with a window at the front that revealed the pubic hair and on the sides and The Thong unisex swimsuit – all of which have inspired and adapted into contemporary swimwear designs and the Rudi Gernreich’s namesake brand has revived the original swimsuits.
Vintage clippings of the 'No Bra' bra from the 'No' Collection. Courtesy of Rudi Gernreich.
Fashion as Protest: Sexual Freedom & Desexualisation of the Body
Gernreich’s aforementioned most recognised swimwear designs not only served as functional pieces but in his interview with Gloria Steinem, he commented on the possible impact of his fashion on society, “by overstating and exaggerating a new freedom of the body, will make the moderate, right degree of freedom more acceptable.” His philosophies were translated again in the No Bra bra, which was made of soft sheer fabric without the underwire that supported the natural shape of the breast, removing the aesthetic ideals placed on the woman’s body.
'The Unisex' Collection. Courtesy of Rudi Gernreich.
“The Unisex Collection” Made Genderless Clothing a “Thing” before It Was a “Thing”
Between the 60s and 70s, when the idea of genderless clothing wasn’t recognised, Rudi Gernreich released The Unisex Collection in 1970 consisting of futuristic designs that highlighted the natural human form. His collection presentation featured bald male and female models with some designs covering half the face, based on his philosophy on the “utility principle,” which highlighted his belief that clothing should be for comfort and highlight the individual’s quality rather than dictate it. Gernreich also noted that his designs were purposely minimalistic so that they can be worn by either men or women and remove society’s attention from what we wear and focus on what really matters.
'The Unisex' Collection Presentation. Courtesy of Rudi Gernreich.
Basic Black: William Claxton W/Peggy Moffitt (1967) Is Credited as the First Fashion Film
As if Rudi Gernreich’s contributions to modern fashion weren’t already impressive, Basic Black (1967), a film with his long-time muse, collaborator and model Peggy Moffitt, directed by her husband William Claxton is credited as the first fashion film ever created. The film features the model dancing while wearing a range of Gernreich’s forward-thinking designs, from futuristic geometric patterns to his minimalistic swimwear. You can watch the original film below.