Beneath HELIOT EMIL’s Armor

HELIOT EMIL may be the namesake of Julius und Victor Juul’s grandfather, but to most, it’s the Danish brand known for putting a Burning Man on the runway for AW23 or crafting fabrics that look like liquid metal.The brothers have created a cosmos that feels both militant and melancholic; technical and raw. Black and white, sometimes shades of grey, open a conversation that feels curiously vulnerable against the armor of their silhouettes. But once you step closer, the dark facade reveals itself as a protective shell, warding off those unprepared to confront their own fragility. Ideas for the collections are born from a foundation of sensitivity, delving into themes of belonging like exploring the feeling of shelter and the meaning of uniformity.

At HELIOT EMIL, those emotional themes intertwine with technical design, creating an interplay where the abstract meets the rational. Drawing inspiration from beyond the fashion sphere, HELIOT EMIL redefines construction through techniques like heat-bonding in place of traditional stitching — resulting into silhouettes that are as much a study in minimalism as in disruption. Their approach to design has now attracted PUMA as their collaborative partner. Together, they have now released a collection of footwear, accessories, and apparel that is reflecting both brand’s technical advances, fused with HELIOT EMIL’s dystopian utility aesthetic.

SLEEK: For the collections you draw from emotional themes as inspiration, while the clothes are constructed highly technical though. How do you combine both emotionality and technology into a cohesive design?

Julius Juul: The themes ground the designs with a purpose, allowing us to layer in technical elements that emphasize functionality and innovation. I hope to create a melting point between emotional depth and innovative, advanced materials and shapes; resulting into pieces that are not only unique but also carry meaning in their function.

S: What is the process behind choosing emotional themes for technical design? What interests you about fusing both?

JJ: The process of working with an emotional theme often starts with a question or concept that resonates deeper with me. This could be something thought-provoking I came across; an art installation or something in science which I thought was interesting to dive deeper into. Fusing emotions with technicality allows us to explore human feelings like survival, shelter, and isolation while experimenting with ways to make these ideas tangible. This duality – the technical and the emotional – fascinates me because it creates a powerful tension within the design. The pieces feel both familiar and innovative at the same time.

S: You create all these feelings with clothes that are mostly black and white.

JJ: Using a mostly monochrome palette isn’t a limitation but rather a way to distill the essence of these themes without unnecessary distraction. Black and white can be both intense and restrained, mirroring the balance we strive for between emotion and structure. I think that if you are not distracted by color you experience textures, layering, and unique material finishes much more intensely and these are the elements we want to emphasize.

S: You’ve mentioned that it’s important for HELIOT EMIL to not be solely associated with fashion. The brand incorporates technologies from other fields into its designs. How crucial is this cross-disciplinary approach for building a successful, long-lasting brand? And why do you believe it’s essential for the brand’s growth?

JJ: To keep Heliot Emil evolving, we draw inspiration from technology and materials typically found outside the fashion industry, whether from architecture, industrial design, or engineering. This cross-disciplinary approach is essential to make the brand evolve with the rest of the world and adapt to new ideas which can be presented to the fashion industry. It expands our creative boundaries and fosters a future where our designs feel like they belong to a larger narrative beyond fashion.

S: What materials did you experiment with in your collaboration with Puma? Did working with a sportswear brand influence your design approach in any way?

JJ: With PUMA, we experimented with materials that enhance both athletic performance and urban utility, like high-performance nylon and technical fabrics with dynamic stretch. We dug into the archives of PUMA and their amazing history of innovation in the sports industry. Working with a sportswear brand encouraged us to push the functionality aspect even further, integrating comfort and movement into the design while maintaining the aesthetic HE signature.

S: In recent interviews, you’ve mentioned the advantage of newer brands having a more niche, tight-knit community. HELIOT EMIL has developed a cult-like following while continuing to grow. Has this growth impacted the nature of your community, and if so, how?

JJ: The growth of HE has definitely impacted our community. As we expand, we focus on preserving the intimacy of that core following, even as more people discover the brand. It’s about cultivating a shared vision and ensuring that new audiences connect with the brand’s essence as authentically as the early adopters did. It’s not easy but we do our best to balance this approach. We are as transparent as possible about our work and we hope that this gives a clear vision of what we are building.

S: With this collab with PUMA, how do both sides profit off of each other’s communities?

JJ: PUMA’s reach introduces us to new fans who appreciate a refined, high-fashion take on sportswear, while HELIOT EMIL offers PUMA followers a look into the world of technical and conceptual design. It is like we are enriching each other’s ecosystems.

S: How did this collaboration with PUMA align in the cosmos of HELIOT EMIL and what does it tell about your brand’s future?

JJ: This collaboration signifies the broader vision we have for Heliot Emil. It highlights our commitment to crossing boundaries, blending high-fashion sensibilities with functional elements that resonate with diverse audiences. It’s a testament to our direction – one that values versatility, collaboration, and an ever-evolving aesthetic that challenges norms in both fashion and outside of fashion.