{"id":106317,"date":"2023-02-14T11:55:24","date_gmt":"2023-02-14T09:55:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=106317"},"modified":"2023-02-16T13:48:30","modified_gmt":"2023-02-16T11:48:30","slug":"on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00dcber Wolle \u2013 im Gespr\u00e4ch mit der Strickdesignerin Ilana Blumberg"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":315,"featured_media":106318,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[10897,17330],"tags":[17783,1109,17496,1456,3542],"class_list":["post-106317","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-opinion","category-sustainability","tag-ilana-blumberg","tag-knitwear","tag-london-fashion","tag-sustainable-fashion","tag-wool"],"acf":{"legacy":false,"exclude_from_ads":[],"hero_title":"","subtitle":"Wool is an inherently sustainable alternative to petrochemical-based fabrics with great promise in the looming material revolution. Rose Dodd speaks to London-based knitwear designer Ilana Blumberg about the wonders of wool and the reality of getting started in an industry that often values money over meaning.","hero":{"video":false,"image":false,"header_color":"black","overlay_color":"","overlay_text_color":"black"},"teasers":{"video":false,"image":{"ID":106318,"id":106318,"title":"","filename":"Image.jpeg","filesize":223309,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/image-35\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"image-35","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:28:54","modified":"2023-02-13 15:29:54","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":768,"height":1024,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","thumbnail-width":72,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","medium-width":768,"medium-height":1024,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","medium_large-width":768,"medium_large-height":1024,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","large-width":768,"large-height":1024,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","1536x1536-width":768,"1536x1536-height":1024,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","2048x2048-width":768,"2048x2048-height":1024,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":9,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","wpvr_mobile-width":768,"wpvr_mobile-height":1024}},"width":"4","proportion":"default"},"facebook_image":false,"related_articles":"","next_article":"","main_category":false,"content":[{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":106319,"id":106319,"title":"","filename":"I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","filesize":488190,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/i-b_e-d_nbc_xtra_02\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"i-b_e-d_nbc_xtra_02","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:31:15","modified":"2023-02-13 15:32:16","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1273,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","medium-width":1273,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","medium_large-width":1273,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","large-width":1273,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02-1018x1536.jpg","1536x1536-width":1018,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","2048x2048-width":1273,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_02.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1273,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":"Image Courtesy of Illana Blumberg. Photography by Emma Dudlyke. "}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"
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\u201cI really can\u2019t sew,\u201d says knitwear designer \u2013 and woolsmith \u2013 Ilana Blumberg<\/a>, humbly, as she shows me a set of what to me look like perfectly stitched, pleated woollen skirts from her recent collection \u2018Never Be Cold\u2019. \u201cDid you use toile to practice?\u201d I ask. \u201cHonestly, no. It\u2019s just origami, you\u2019ve got to consider length, waist, width and the rest is just folding,\u201d she justifies, downplaying the skills she\u2019s acquired en route. \u201cAnd if it\u2019s shit? Well, it\u2019s shit.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ilana\u2019s woollen oeuvre is far from. Even Harry Styles would agree (for reference, see him donning his custom intarsia house-motif sweater in the promotional imagery for his album Harry\u2019s House). Snood jumpers with elongated everythings; sturdy skirts that graze the ankle with plenty of wiggle room; knee-length knitted over-robes; and berets with thick straps that tie up under the chin, fathomed from the simplistic certitude that a beret alone makes cold ears ensue. Her garments are pragmatic… and semiotic of her persistent desire to be warm, quite conveniently modelled in real-time by the series of thick knits she wears.<\/p>\n

We sit on a set of fold up chairs on the ground floor of her mezzanine studio on Hackney Road, London. Cones of coloured yarns are stacked neatly on shelves where a curated selection of books about wool sit adjacent. Next to that stands her manual knitting machine \u2013 where the magic happens, and closeby is an empty space, saved for the soon-to-arrive robot machine which marks the finale of her scale-up.<\/p>\n

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\u201cDid you knit that?\u201d I ask, referring to the long grey overall she wears. \u201cYes. I think everyone should be wearing these but just haven\u2019t quite got it yet. It\u2019s such a useful thing,\u201d the London-born and based designer exclaims, getting up to put the kettle on. \u201cRegular milk or oat?\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":106320,"id":106320,"title":"","filename":"Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","filesize":581359,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/inezdr_nbc-20\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"inezdr_nbc-20","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:31:25","modified":"2023-02-13 15:33:04","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1080,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","thumbnail-width":54,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","medium-width":1080,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","medium_large-width":1080,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","large-width":1080,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20-864x1536.jpg","1536x1536-width":864,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","2048x2048-width":1080,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":7,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-20.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1080,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":106321,"id":106321,"title":"","filename":"Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","filesize":549102,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/inezdr_nbc-22\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"inezdr_nbc-22","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:31:38","modified":"2023-02-13 15:33:06","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1080,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","thumbnail-width":54,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","medium-width":1080,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","medium_large-width":1080,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","large-width":1080,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22-864x1536.jpg","1536x1536-width":864,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","2048x2048-width":1080,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":7,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-22.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1080,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":"Image Courtesy of Illana Blumberg. Photography by Inez De Ryke. "}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

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Ilana never studied fashion design. She studied architecture and before that engineering, a course she never finished but recalls thoroughly enjoying the maths. \u201cThere are similarities between architecture and design,\u201d she shares, and knitting, a game of numbers and calculations, appealed to the mathematician within.<\/p>\n

She introduces me to her knitted snood top. \u201cEverything is extra long so it ruffles up making it really warm,\u201d she says, demonstrating the ruching system permitted by the elongated neck, sleeves and body. \u201cAlthough, I worry people might not realise that and accidentally wear it as a dress. Which I really don\u2019t want.\u201d She pauses, then laughs: \u201cIt\u2019d be a really weird dress.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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\u201cHow would you describe my designs?\u201d Ilana asks me. I spitball, hesitantly: \u201cMid 19th century; pre-technological revolution; slightly proletarian; with a contemporary twist?\u201d A man on a penny-farthing bicycle passes; a glitch in the simulation. \u201cI love it!\u201d She laughs.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s difficult to encapsulate. It\u2019s meant to be funny, yet it\u2019s also actually extremely serious.\u201d She\u2019s conscious of the paradox, but I understand what she means. Satirical, humorous yet fundamentally utilitarian and meaningful. \u201cI want to say: \u2018Look at this ridiculous thing… but I\u2019m deadly serious. It\u2019s not even a joke, it\u2019s actually a really good thing\u2019.\u201d Her robe exemplifies this perfectly. I\u2019m sold.<\/p>\n

Ilana seeks inspiration from themes of essentialism, origin and tradition. \u201cI guess that\u2019s probably why you say mid 19th century as in some way such themes return to a time when, yes, fashioning oneself was important but it was also about survival.\u201d And, clothes, whilst being critical utensils in semaphoring messages of identity, better explained by our dear cultural theorist and historian Anne Hollander, they also serve a purpose, which, as per the title of Ilana\u2019s most recent collection, is to avoid ever being cold. \u201cAnd, if I feel like what I\u2019m making is really useful then I don\u2019t have to feel bad about making it.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ilana only works with wool, which is, in essence, the reason we\u2019ve met today.<\/p>\n

Wool is something of a miracle fabric; it\u2019s high performance and totally technical. When used with quality in mind, it resists deterioration, it\u2019s durable, it\u2019s easy to maintain as its self cleaning properties allow for less frequent, low temperature washing. Wool reacts to changes in the body\u2019s temperature meaning it keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. It\u2019s soft; it\u2019s coarse. Hell, it\u2019s even flame resistant. The supply chain from fleece to functional yarn is short and can be local. Not to mention, the process which transforms the yarn into a product (… knitting) is generally an additive manufacturing process as opposed to a subtractive process so waste is at a minimum. And, when the time comes, it can be biodegraded. Collectively, the above make wool a far better alternative to petrochemical-based materials.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":106318,"id":106318,"title":"","filename":"Image.jpeg","filesize":223309,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/image-35\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"image-35","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:28:54","modified":"2023-02-13 15:29:54","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":768,"height":1024,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","thumbnail-width":72,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","medium-width":768,"medium-height":1024,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","medium_large-width":768,"medium_large-height":1024,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","large-width":768,"large-height":1024,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","1536x1536-width":768,"1536x1536-height":1024,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","2048x2048-width":768,"2048x2048-height":1024,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":9,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Image.jpeg","wpvr_mobile-width":768,"wpvr_mobile-height":1024}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":"Image Courtesy of Illana Blumberg. "}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

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\u201cWool is an amazing yarn to work with,\u201d says Ilana, \u201cAll of its natural oils mean it\u2019s always changing. You can just get so much out of it.\u201d<\/p>\n

What she looks out for when sourcing her yarns is a wide range of colours, a fair price and a quantity that will allow for consistency when making. And, quality is key. \u201cI want wool that doesn’t pill,\u201d she says, again, pointing to the sleeves on her grey robe that are allegedly pilling (or bobbling in layman\u2019s terms). Though, I really can\u2019t see any bobbles.<\/p>\n

Wool isn\u2019t always used to the best of its ability and Ilana has her qualms. \u201cNowadays, a lot of knitwear is too lightweight. It seems if a brand can make it 100 grams lighter to save money, they will. They\u2019re not prioritising the quality,\u201d she says. And, when quality isn\u2019t a priority, longevity is jeopardised. \u201cIf it doesn’t do what you want it to do, it\u2019s not fit for purpose. And, if it\u2019s not fit for purpose, it\u2019s not going to go the distance.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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\u201cI wanted to make the perfect jumper,\u201d she says, pointing to the thick red knit that lines her over-robe. Such a thing is hard to come by. She reels off her ideals: \u201cComfortable, extremely sturdy, ages well, really warm, practical.\u201d She breathes, then adds: \u201cAnd, is easy enough to make that it\u2019s affordable. But not so affordable that it\u2019s compromised, it feels luxurious, and, you know, I also have to make a living from it.\u201d<\/p>\n

We liaise on the concept of luxury, coming to the conclusion that luxury fashion does not sit on a spectrum with fast fashion as it can still be both fast and damaging alike any fast label, take Shein for example.<\/p>\n

\u201cSustainability used to be really important to me,\u201d she admits, \u201cthen I think I became disillusioned and now I view it as somewhat unrealistic. Logistically it was difficult, too.\u201d She continues: \u201cUsing second-hand yarns made reproducing a garment near impossible as each yarn would behave differently and the entire garment would have to be recalculated. It\u2019s not like working with fabrics where you can just cut it to the same shape, everything would have to be one of a kind and I\u2019d have to sell it for a lot more money.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI feel like doing better by the planet is incredibly important but at the same time, I feel I\u2019ve slightly stepped back from the burdensome feeling that it\u2019s my responsibility,\u201d she says, pessimistically.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a seemingly bureaucratic and totally intricate affair which, without extensive research and question, makes itself elusive to gauge. \u201cHonestly, I don\u2019t understand what half of the certifications and qualifications actually mean. I would like to understand but that requires time that I don\u2019t have.\u201d That\u2019s the reality of it. Infrastructure is set up in a way that makes it hard to understand and easy to gloss over. It takes near interrogation to get to the bottom of these things, leaving plenty of room for greenwashing hidden behind the power of a certification which actually might mean very little.<\/p>\n

\u201cFor example, recycled yarns are something I like to use, and more and more recycled yarns are becoming available which is exciting. But, I had a conversation with one of the representatives at Pitti Immagine Filati, the yarn show in Florence, and they told me that recycled yarns are actually just collected bits of the floor and put them into another machine rather than back in with the virgin wool. Speaking to the person at the fair was really amazing as even though we learned that the certification didn\u2019t really mean anything, at least we are no longer fooled by it.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":106323,"id":106323,"title":"","filename":"Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","filesize":637639,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/inezdr_nbc-29\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"inezdr_nbc-29","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:32:01","modified":"2023-02-13 15:33:51","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1080,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","thumbnail-width":54,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","medium-width":1080,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","medium_large-width":1080,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","large-width":1080,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29-864x1536.jpg","1536x1536-width":864,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","2048x2048-width":1080,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":7,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-29.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1080,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":106322,"id":106322,"title":"","filename":"Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","filesize":564972,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/inezdr_nbc-23\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"inezdr_nbc-23","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:31:48","modified":"2023-02-13 15:33:49","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1080,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","thumbnail-width":54,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","medium-width":1080,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","medium_large-width":1080,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","large-width":1080,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23-864x1536.jpg","1536x1536-width":864,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","2048x2048-width":1080,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":7,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Inezdr_NBC-23.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1080,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":"Image Courtesy of Illana Blumberg. Photography by Inez De Ryke. "}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

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Asking questions is a good place to start. \u201cI\u2019d advise to talk to agents, reps and ask lots of questions. I think learning to understand the certifications would be a good place to start for better understanding and measuring factors related to sustainability and animal welfare.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI feel lucky to be doing knit because you build the textile to the shape you need it to be. It\u2019s an additive process which means waste is at a minimum.\u201d As opposed to subtractive manufacturing. \u201cThat\u2019s not to say that there is no waste,\u201d she clarifies.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat about dyes?\u201d I ask. She\u2019s earnest. \u201cCurrently, honestly, I know very little, and with time, as I grow, it\u2019s something I\u2019d really like to know more about.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ilana is already working greener than many; the nature of knitting with wool is inherently more sustainable than other avenues of fashion manufacturing. She agrees but is reluctant to make any claims to being a sustainable brand. \u201cI would never go and shout about it because I don\u2019t have the grounds to do that, and sometimes quiet responsible action speaks louder. At the end of the day, as designers, it is our responsibility to try.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThat being said, as a single person running a brand, I have to pick my battles. At the moment, it\u2019s about producing high quality pieces that will last for a long time. This to me is sustainable.\u201d It is. A model like this will help alleviate throwaway culture. \u201cI\u2019m really rooting for the creation of sustainable products that I can use, but in the meantime I\u2019m not going to claim to be fully sustainable.\u201d<\/p>\n

Ilana also works as a consultant, liaising with brands that are exploring knit. She candidly shares her dilemma. \u201cWhen I\u2019m consulting, I wonder how much of it is my responsibility in terms of guidance regarding the materials a brand might choose. I did a project recently and I showed them two options: a 100% wool option and a blend with polyester. The brand wanted to use better materials, but they also wanted to achieve a certain effect which could only be achieved by using a blend. They went for the blend.\u201d<\/p>\n

Frustrated by reality yet relieved by admission, she adjusts her legs which are now dangling over the back of the chair. She reaffirms: \u201cThis is what I mean by stepping back from seeing it as my responsibility. There is an entire industry, factories and everything, that make yarns, materials, garments and more. Obviously one needs to buy the right materials responsibly, but I can\u2019t take on the responsibility of all these components.\u201d This is the price one has to pay when starting out, and many industries, in particular fashion, are rife with compromise, meaning integrity is lost in the name of making ends meet.<\/p>\n

Much of the above works on a demand basis. That\u2019s not to say it\u2019s made to order, like Ilana\u2019s business model, but as long as demand for a product exists, so will the product.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":106324,"id":106324,"title":"","filename":"I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","filesize":456965,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/i-b_e-d_nbc_xtra_05-copy\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"i-b_e-d_nbc_xtra_05-copy","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:32:14","modified":"2023-02-13 15:32:27","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1282,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","medium-width":1282,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","medium_large-width":1282,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","large-width":1282,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy-1026x1536.jpg","1536x1536-width":1026,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","2048x2048-width":1282,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_05-copy.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1282,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":106325,"id":106325,"title":"","filename":"I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","filesize":498720,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/i-b_e-d_nbc_xtra_04\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"i-b_e-d_nbc_xtra_04","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":106317,"date":"2023-02-13 15:34:47","modified":"2023-02-13 15:34:57","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1273,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","medium-width":1273,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","medium_large-width":1273,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","large-width":1273,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04-1018x1536.jpg","1536x1536-width":1018,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","2048x2048-width":1273,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I.B_E.D_NBC_XTRA_04.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1273,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":"Image Courtesy of Illana Blumberg. Photography by Emma Dudlyke. "}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

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Ilana is hopeful that if enough people sourcing fabrics are opting in for the better version \u2013 the recycled yarns, the organic cottons, the deadstock or second-hand fabrics, the biomaterials \u2013 then the right message is sent, and with time, production will shift to be more indicative of this. \u201cThe pressure is on and many brands and corporations are having to prove themselves.\u201d It\u2019s just ensuring that pressure extends further than self validation or gratification to genuine, meaningful action. \u201cI sound like I’m trying to relinquish myself of the responsibility. I don\u2019t really feel like that. I feel I should be doing more.\u201d<\/p>\n

She doesn\u2019t take enough credit for what she is doing: small scale, made to order, additive manufacturing from natural biodegradable fibres that don\u2019t distribute microplastics and can be washed at low temperatures with quality and longevity in mind using less energy and less water than polyester or cotton alternatives. That was a mouthful. As concerns for detrimental plastic and synthetic materials grow, wool provides an alternative to reduce the impact. Experts from Leeds University have highlighted wool for its unique properties in storing atmospheric carbon, aiding in preventing stored carbon from contributing to greenhouse gas emissions.<\/p>\n

Hours have passed and I think I ought to let Ilana get on with her tax return. Deadlines loom. \u201cWhat\u2019s this?\u201d I ask, spying what looks to be a tulle wedding dress tucked away in a corner of her studio on my way out. \u201cIt\u2019s a wedding dress.\u201d Ilana\u2019s not getting married, she\u2019s celebrating her thirtieth birthday. \u201cWhen I was young I always thought I\u2019d be married by thirty. Now I am thirty, I realise I\u2019m still so young. Anyway, the theme was a white wedding, and this is the dress I made to wear.\u201d So, she can sew!<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"}]},"yoast_head":"\nOn Wool With Knitwear Designer Ilana Blumberg - Sleek Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"SLEEK speaks to knitwear designer Ilana Blumberg about the wonders of wool and getting started in an industry that values money over meaning.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"On Wool With Knitwear Designer Ilana Blumberg - Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"SLEEK speaks to knitwear designer Ilana Blumberg about the wonders of wool and getting started in an industry that values money over meaning.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/on-wool-with-knitwear-designer-ilana-blumberg\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2023-02-14T09:55:24+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-02-16T11:48:30+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Rose Dodd\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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