{"id":14172,"date":"2014-06-06T12:34:23","date_gmt":"2014-06-06T10:34:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=14172"},"modified":"2014-06-06T12:34:23","modified_gmt":"2014-06-06T10:34:23","slug":"sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/","title":{"rendered":"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\" Emma Hardstaff, RCA Womenswear, photo RCA\/Dominic Tschudin<\/p>\n

Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art: the two pinnacles of UK fashion education. While it\u2019s true that British fashion talent does bloom outside of these venerated walls (and enthusiastic coverage of this year\u2019s Graduate Fashion Week<\/a>, that showcased talent from a range of other schools,\u00a0is testament to this), it\u2019s also true that the two institutions consistently provide leading industry figureheads and innovators. This year\u2019s crop of MA graduates is no exception to the schools’ long legacies of skill and creative vigour.\u00a0<\/p>\n

At the RCA, womenswear was dominated by gestural silhouettes with playful contrasts in volume and technique. Emma Hardstaff produced a standout collection in foiled faux fur and foiled lace (fabrics she developed herself) cocooned in grey tulle. Presenting looks at once frothy and brittle, Hardstaff\u2019s technique is based on an \u201cexploded\u201d silhouette, or more technically; \u201cHuge flat patterns that transform through the use of elastic into oversized, yet defined, garments.\u201d She uses a sheer exo-skeleton, \u201ca tulle layer that holds the garments together and allows for the suspension of the key elements that make up each outfit.\u201d Despite the fizzy exuberance of the collection, the young designer also told Schlank<\/em> she was kept motivated by \u201ca lot of Nine Inch Nails\u201d and a trip to the Paul Smith exhibition at the Design Museum.\u00a0<\/p>\n

A recurring motif throughout womenswear was a kind of body-tumble effect: bulbous waves and slices of fabric used to activate (as opposed to clash with) the female form. This was handled deftly by Ida Gro Christiansen, a Danish designer with experience working at Berlin\u2019s own\u00a0Augustin Teboul<\/a>. The collection is a balancing act between very thin Italian stretch tulle and heavy furniture wool bound in PVC materials. Christiansen developed her technique using laser cutting, heat pressing, and hand coating to produce ephemeral sci-fi-elegance with a dash of disco.\u00a0Menswear highlights included crazy-paving tailoring from Jung Sun Kim, Riona Horrox\u2019s punkily rebooted leather daddies and ITS Fashion Prize finalist Natalija Mencej\u2018s luxe handmade casuals in wool, Japanese selvedge denim and crisp woven raffia.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"\" Anita Hirlekar, Central Saint Martins MA Graduate 2014 London Fashion Week Copyright Catwalking.com<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

At Central Saint Martins, the MA class was marked by varied takes on deconstruction, from the drifting goat hides and moulded pockets of Drew Henry\u2019s collection to Jessica Mort\u2019s lacerated zombie rugby strips and Fiona Blakeman\u2019s laser-cut chamois-leather and jersey gowns. Anita Hirlekar\u2019s collection was a delight: stiff block power silhouettes broken up by knotty strokes in colourfully embroidered and subtle sheer panels. Hirlekar said she was inspired by the paintings of twin brothers Gert & Uwe Tobias.<\/p>\n

There was an additional layer of sentiment to this year\u2019s proceedings. The Central Saint Martins show was, of course, dedicated to the late, great Louise Wilson, tenacious marshal of the school\u2019s MA Fashion talent from 1992 to May of this year. 2014 also marked the end of a sixteen-year-long term for the RCA\u2019s Professor Wendy Dagworthy, former Dean of the School of Materials. It\u2019s the end of an era for London fashion, but if this year\u2019s cross-section of absorbing wit, craft and vision is any indicator, the future is cut in promising cloth.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

View our favourite collections in full below.<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Text by Ella Plevin<\/strong><\/p>\n\n

 <\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Emma Hardstaff, RCA Womenswear, photo RCA\/Dominic Tschudin Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art: the two pinnacles of UK fashion education. While it\u2019s true that British fashion talent does bloom outside of these venerated walls (and enthusiastic coverage of this year\u2019s Graduate Fashion Week, that showcased talent from a range of other schools,\u00a0is…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":14279,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[1496,21,1479,141,1497],"class_list":["post-14172","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-central-saint-martins","tag-fashion","tag-graduate-show","tag-london","tag-rca"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"\nGraduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Emma Hardstaff, RCA Womenswear, photo RCA\/Dominic Tschudin Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art: the two pinnacles of UK fashion education. While it\u2019s true that British fashion talent does bloom outside of these venerated walls (and enthusiastic coverage of this year\u2019s Graduate Fashion Week, that showcased talent from a range of other schools,\u00a0is...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2014-06-06T10:34:23+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek team\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Gesch\u00e4tzte Lesezeit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3\u00a0Minuten\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. This creativity manifests itself in SLEEK\u2019s quarterly print publication, digital and social media channels.\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":\"required name=search_term_string\"}],\"inLanguage\":\"de\"},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"de\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"\",\"contentUrl\":\"\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#webpage\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/\",\"name\":\"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#primaryimage\"},\"datePublished\":\"2014-06-06T10:34:23+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2014-06-06T10:34:23+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#\/schema\/person\/c5f3e8e696c044fb822d2530a768f11c\"},\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"de\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Home\",\"item\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack\"}]},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#\/schema\/person\/c5f3e8e696c044fb822d2530a768f11c\",\"name\":\"sleek team\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"de\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/404b6a6d9dfd8710d349055eb5f6e3eb12a480b0445e12debd7785cc1963dfb1?s=96&d=mm&r=g\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/404b6a6d9dfd8710d349055eb5f6e3eb12a480b0445e12debd7785cc1963dfb1?s=96&d=mm&r=g\",\"caption\":\"sleek team\"},\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/author\/sleek-team\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/","og_locale":"de_DE","og_type":"article","og_title":"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack","og_description":"Emma Hardstaff, RCA Womenswear, photo RCA\/Dominic Tschudin Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art: the two pinnacles of UK fashion education. While it\u2019s true that British fashion talent does bloom outside of these venerated walls (and enthusiastic coverage of this year\u2019s Graduate Fashion Week, that showcased talent from a range of other schools,\u00a0is...","og_url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/","og_site_name":"Sleek Magazine","article_publisher":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/","article_published_time":"2014-06-06T10:34:23+00:00","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_creator":"@sleekmag","twitter_site":"@sleekmag","twitter_misc":{"Verfasst von":"sleek team","Gesch\u00e4tzte Lesezeit":"3\u00a0Minuten"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/","name":"Schlankes Magazin","description":"Sleek ist Deutschlands f\u00fchrendes unabh\u00e4ngiges Medienhaus\/Marke f\u00fcr Kreativit\u00e4t und Innovation mit Sitz in Berlin, der kreativen Hauptstadt der Welt. Diese Kreativit\u00e4t manifestiert sich in der viertelj\u00e4hrlich erscheinenden Print-Publikation, den digitalen und Social-Media-Kan\u00e4len von SLEEK.","potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":"required name=search_term_string"}],"inLanguage":"de"},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"de","@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#primaryimage","url":"","contentUrl":""},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#webpage","url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/","name":"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#primaryimage"},"datePublished":"2014-06-06T10:34:23+00:00","dateModified":"2014-06-06T10:34:23+00:00","author":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#\/schema\/person\/c5f3e8e696c044fb822d2530a768f11c"},"breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"de","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/"]}]},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/article\/sleek-picks-central-saint-martins-and-rca-ahead-of-the-graduate-pack\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Home","item":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"Graduate fashion 2014: Central Saint Martins and RCA ahead of the pack"}]},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#\/schema\/person\/c5f3e8e696c044fb822d2530a768f11c","name":"schlankes Team","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"de","@id":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#\/schema\/person\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/404b6a6d9dfd8710d349055eb5f6e3eb12a480b0445e12debd7785cc1963dfb1?s=96&d=mm&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/404b6a6d9dfd8710d349055eb5f6e3eb12a480b0445e12debd7785cc1963dfb1?s=96&d=mm&r=g","caption":"sleek team"},"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/author\/sleek-team\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14172","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=14172"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14172\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=14172"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=14172"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=14172"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}