{"id":16722,"date":"2014-10-10T11:30:38","date_gmt":"2014-10-10T09:30:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=16722"},"modified":"2014-10-10T11:30:38","modified_gmt":"2014-10-10T09:30:38","slug":"what-we-learned-on-the-chanel-cutting-room-floor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/what-we-learned-on-the-chanel-cutting-room-floor\/","title":{"rendered":"5 Things We Learned on the Chanel Cutting Room Floor"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"size--small\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-16929\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/CHANEL_REP_CAMBON_549-copy.jpg\" alt=\"Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt\" width=\"716\" height=\"524\" \/> Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt<\/p>\n<p>Tucked away in suburban Pantine, the House of Lesage houses workshops churning out details for Balenciaga, Valentino, Givenchy and, of course, Chanel, who kindly invited Sleek for a tour. As we wandered behind the scenes, here are five things we learned on Chanel\u2019s cutting room floor.<br \/>\n<b>The five workshops<\/b> \nThe haute couture atelier is composed of five workshops: Maison Paloma for confection and finishing, Lesage for embroidery, millinery at Maison Michel, the fine jewelers and metal-workers at Goossens, and finally, Lemari\u00e9\u2019s feather and fabric flower makers. It\u2019s not quite the rickety, Dickensian labyrinth of attics Sleek was expecting (abuzz with fairy godmother seamstresses) but these are Chanel\u2019s five hands of Patin and it is the flutter of the so-called \u201cpetites-mains\u201d (tiny hands), the highly-skilled (and mostly female) artisans employed here upholding the painstaking standards of a craft steeped in centuries of tradition.<br \/>\n<b>There&#8217;s a calm before the storm<\/b> \nIn addition to technical challenges, the petites-mains also contend with the demanding pace of the fashion calendar. There isn\u2019t a moment to spare between the surge of collections produced for biannual haute couture and pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter seasons, plus inter-seasonal lines, archive refreshment and special commissions. Yet despite the imminence of yet another Paris Fashion Week (we visited just before haute couture week), the atmosphere throughout the building is serene.<\/p>\n<p class=\"size--small\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-16933\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/CHANEL_REP_PANTIN_431-copy-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" \/> Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt<\/p>\n<p><b>Age comes before beauty<\/b> \nMaison Lesage is the oldest of its kind in Paris, with archives boasting exquisite samples from founder Albert Michonet\u2019s time right up to the present day. Michonet was chief embroiderer to Charles F. Worth (haute couture\u2019s founding father), Napoleon the Third and Empress Eugenie, but sold his atelier to the Lesage family in 1924. Current directrice Murielle Lemoine has held the keys to Maison Lesage\u2019s treasures for over 25 years and is the first point of contact for designers as they begin work on a collection.<br \/>\n<b>The Maison has used some unusual materials&#8230;<\/b> \nThe archive itself is a veritable sweet shop of fashion history, boasting the largest and oldest collection of couture embroidery in the world. There are more than sixty tons of supplies from beads, mother-of-pearl shards, tassels and gemstones to more unusual materials \u00ad\u2013 Sleek\u2019s guide shows us a swatch of raffia embellished with acorn shells and melon seeds, and tells us about the bounty of moules that fed the maison for months when the visionary Schiaparelli demanded mussel shell embellishment.<\/p>\n<p class=\"size--small\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-16934\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/10\/CHANEL_REP_PANTIN_1143-copy_Francine_2-682x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt\" width=\"682\" height=\"1024\" \/> Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt<\/p>\n<p><b>&#8230;and is always challenging new frontiers<\/b> \nChanel has two private ateliers: the Flou for fine, delicate fabrics; Tailleur for suits, tailoring and work required for tougher fabrics like Chanel\u2019s trademark tweed. The Flou focuses on light, gauzy fabrics like tulle, chiffon, satin and organza but this year Madame Martine is working with neoprene. She tells Sleek that she insists on perfection but enjoys the space to experiment within established traditions too. Conventional materials for buttons include paste, wood, horn, plastic and mother-of-pearl, precious stones and metal plates. This year, Madame Martine tells Sleek with a grin, Karl has asked for cement.<br \/>\n<b>Original text by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/tag\/ella-plevin\/\">Ella Plevin<\/a>.<\/b> \n<b>For our full article from the Chanel cutting room floor, read\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/shop.sleek-mag.com\/products-page\/issues\/43-autumn-2014-youthtruth-art-cover\/\">Sleek Magazine 43, Youth\/Truth<\/a>\u00a0<\/b>\u2014\u00a0<b>available now.\u00a0<\/b> \n<strong>See more images from our visit to the House of Lesage below.\u00a0<\/strong> \n<br \/>\n&nbsp;<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt Tucked away in suburban Pantine, the House of Lesage houses workshops churning out details for Balenciaga, Valentino, Givenchy and, of course, Chanel, who kindly invited Sleek for a tour. As we wandered behind the scenes, here are five things we learned on Chanel\u2019s cutting room floor. The five workshops The haute&#8230;<\/p>","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":16927,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[1232,188,21,1762,1763,27,56],"class_list":["post-16722","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-behind-the-scenes","tag-chanel","tag-fashion","tag-house-of-lesage","tag-karl-lagerfeld","tag-paris","tag-paris-fashion-week"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>5 Things We Learned on the Chanel Cutting Room Floor 5 Things We Learned on the Chanel Cutting Room Floor<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/what-we-learned-on-the-chanel-cutting-room-floor\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"5 Things We Learned on the Chanel Cutting Room Floor 5 Things We Learned on the Chanel Cutting Room Floor\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Photography by Christoph Wohlfahrt Tucked away in suburban Pantine, the House of Lesage houses workshops churning out details for Balenciaga, Valentino, Givenchy and, of course, Chanel, who kindly invited Sleek for a tour. 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