{"id":18620,"date":"2015-01-09T09:31:07","date_gmt":"2015-01-09T08:31:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=18620"},"modified":"2015-01-09T09:31:07","modified_gmt":"2015-01-09T08:31:07","slug":"james-long-menswear-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/james-long-menswear-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Der langj\u00e4hrige Held der Herrenmode: James Long"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"size--small\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-18624\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/IMG_6095.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"433\" height=\"650\" \/> James Long, fotografiert von Georgia Kuhn<\/p>\n<p>Herrenmode sieht doch alle gleich aus, oder? Zumindest lautet so die g\u00e4ngige Kritik an der Herrenmode. Das ist ein berechtigter Einwand, denn diese festgefahrenen Konventionen der Herrenmode \u2013 Hose, Hemd, Jacke \u2013 lassen sich im Vergleich zu den \u00fcppigen Schwankungen in der Welt der Damenmode nach wie vor nur schwer durchbrechen. James Long hingegen ist der Herrenmode-Designer, der sich der Aufgabe verschrieben hat, etwas anderes zu schaffen. Als Gewinner des allerersten NEWGEN-Preises und mittlerweile einer der gefragtesten Designer bei den erst k\u00fcrzlich ins Leben gerufenen \u201eLondon Collections: Men\u201c hat Longs Talent, spritzige, coole Kleidung zu kreieren, die gleichzeitig begehrenswert und vor allem tragbar bleibt, ihn an die Spitze der internationalen Herrenmode katapultiert.<br \/>\nIm Gespr\u00e4ch mit Long in seinem Atelier in Hackney, wo die Inspirationen f\u00fcr seine n\u00e4chste Kollektion und seine k\u00fcrzlich lancierte Accessoire-Kollektion die W\u00e4nde zieren, erl\u00e4utert er uns den Entstehungsprozess seiner zeitlosen Designs. \u201cF\u00fcr mich geht es definitiv um die Ideen und das Konzept, aber ich denke, wenn die Kleidungsst\u00fccke letztendlich in den L\u00e4den liegen, spielt das keine so gro\u00dfe Rolle mehr. Die Frage ist: Spiegelt sich das alles auch im Kleidungsst\u00fcck wider? In gewisser Weise richtet sich dieser Designprozess an eine sehr kleine Gruppe von Menschen, die sich wirklich mit der Marke und dem Wesen der Kleidung auseinandersetzen.\u201d Obwohl er einige Ausfl\u00fcge in die Damenmode unternommen hat, ist Longs Engagement f\u00fcr die Schaffung zeitloser Mode einer der Gr\u00fcnde, warum er sich lieber auf die Herrenmode konzentriert: \u201cIn der Herrenmode scheint die Kollektion als langfristiges Projekt fortgef\u00fchrt zu werden. In der Damenmode dreht sich alles darum, dem neuen Wesen der Mode hinterherzujagen. Die Herrenmode hat mehr Kontinuit\u00e4t.\u201d Trotz seiner Vorliebe f\u00fcr zeitlosen Stil lassen sich Longs Kollektionen kaum als traditionell bezeichnen. So wurde beispielsweise seine schlichte, gestreifte und farbenfrohe Fr\u00fchjahr\/Sommer-Kollektion 2015 auf dem Laufsteg von langhaarigen Jugendlichen pr\u00e4sentiert und mit Blick auf einen Thai-Boxer entworfen. Das ist ein geschickter Schachzug, den Long gekonnt umsetzt, indem er h\u00f6chste Innovation mit dauerhafter Attraktivit\u00e4t verbindet.<\/p>\n<p class=\"size--small\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-18625\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/IMG_6054.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"433\" height=\"650\" \/> James Longs Atelier, fotografiert von Georgia Kuhn<\/p>\n<p>Aber warum entwickelt sich London mit seiner jugendlichen Modementalit\u00e4t gerade zum Ort, an dem man nach innovativer Herrenmode Ausschau halten sollte? \u201cIch denke, die Hochschulen sind wirklich wichtig \u2013 ohne die F\u00f6rderung dort wird es keine Talente geben. London ist wirklich f\u00fcr Herrenmode bekannt, w\u00e4hrend das sonst nirgendwo auf der Welt der Fall ist.\u201d Longs Alma Mater, das Royal College of Art, spielt bei diesem Wandel eine besonders wichtige Rolle \u2013 er merkt an, dass es jedes Jahr einen \u2018Durchbruchstar\u2019 in der RCA-Herrenmode-Jahrgang gibt, eine Auszeichnung, die in der Vergangenheit inoffiziell an Katie Eary, Astrid Andersen und nat\u00fcrlich Long selbst vergeben wurde. Unter den Londoner Herrenmode-Designern herrscht das Gef\u00fchl einer bl\u00fchenden Gemeinschaft; schlie\u00dflich setzen sich alle f\u00fcr die Entwicklung der Kreativszene in der britischen Hauptstadt ein. \u201cWir unterst\u00fctzen uns gegenseitig sehr \u2013 das ist eines der besten Dinge daran!\u201d Nur eine Frage bleibt offen: Warum dauert es so lange, bis die Modebranche die sich wandelnden Bed\u00fcrfnisse der Herrenmodekunden des 21. Jahrhunderts erkennt? Laut Long dreht sich alles um das Verlangen: \u201cDie Generation muss es erst wollen.\u201d<br \/>\n<strong>Interview von<a href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/tag\/josie-thaddeus-johns\/\"> Josie Thaddeus-Johns<\/a><\/strong> \n<strong>Entnommen aus <a href=\"http:\/\/shop.sleek-mag.com\/products-page\/issues\/44-winter-15-what-women-want-cover-2\/\">Sleek Magazine 44: Was Frauen wollen<\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/tag\/sleek-44\/\"><br \/>\n<\/a><\/strong> \n<strong>Entdecke weitere Geschichten von <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/category\/print-features\/\">unsere Print-Ausgaben<\/a><\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>James Long photographed by Georgia Kuhn All menswear looks the same, right? Or at least, that\u2019s the common criticism of men\u2019s fashion. It\u2019s a fair claim, since those prescriptive codes of menswear \u2013 trousers, shirt, jacket \u2013 still prove hard to break down, in comparison to the lavish fluctuations of the world of womenswear. James&#8230;<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":18621,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[21,2053,141,93,1959],"class_list":["post-18620","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-fashion","tag-james-long","tag-london","tag-menswear","tag-sleek-44"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Menswear&#039;s Long-Lasting Hero: James Long Menswear&#039;s Long-Lasting Hero: James Long<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/james-long-menswear-fashion\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Menswear&#039;s Long-Lasting Hero: James Long Menswear&#039;s Long-Lasting Hero: James Long\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"James Long photographed by Georgia Kuhn All menswear looks the same, right? 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