{"id":21688,"date":"2015-05-27T12:47:58","date_gmt":"2015-05-27T10:47:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=21688"},"modified":"2015-05-27T12:47:58","modified_gmt":"2015-05-27T10:47:58","slug":"flying-high-phoebe-english-at-now-gallery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/flying-high-phoebe-english-at-now-gallery\/","title":{"rendered":"Flying High: Phoebe English at NOW Gallery"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\" Phoebe English, NOW Gallery, May 2015.<\/p>\n

For several seasons, young British designer Phoebe English has been labelled \u2018one to watch\u2019, an \u2018up and comer\u2019 on the path to great things. Having trained under the late, legendary Louise Wilson, the sky, it seems, is the only limit for her and her darkly feminine attire.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Now, she\u2019s the subject of a new retrospective, or \u2018introspective\u2019, exploring her working processes. Held at NOW Gallery, entitled, “Floating, Falling, Drowning, Flying”, stays quietly true to this sense of trajectory which has stalked her so far. It\u2019s more tentative than her supporters, though. Rather than motioning unabashed to her dazzling future, the four words leave you hanging \u2013 they\u2019re gerunds, those grammatical incarnations of the unfinished, the incomplete. “Non-finite”, the dictionary labels them, as if offering a lean summary of English\u2019s aesthetic.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Homing in on fine details like this usually feels redundant, or at least a little oblique. Not here, though, in the case of English\u2019s work, and the chosen focus of this show. It was originally devised around an ambitious, painstaking beaded installation, but details – process, practice, production – got in the way. Instead, much of the exhibit is based around tables displaying bits of English\u2019s old work – all the things she accumulated as she worked towards each season\u2019s final show.\u00a0<\/p>\n

When English went to present the NOW curatorial team with her unseen archive the idea behind the exhibition evolved. It\u2019s still home to the original idea, the cascading sculpture that catches the light as you enter, but now it\u2019s just one element, one thread woven in.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"\" Phoebe English, Now Gallery, May 2015<\/p>\n

Each table shows visitors different collections that English has produced, but the finished result of each is almost beside the point. What\u2019s so distinct about English\u2019s work is her eye for the exquisite detail: the sheen of a black feather, or the way the weight of a knot makes it hang. Because of this, her work lends itself to this dissection, giving over the stage to the part, rather than the refined whole.\u00a0<\/p>\n

If the tables make up the main body of the show, then the beaded installation, falling from the gallery\u2019s high ceiling, still provides the arresting focal point. A feat of engineering and craftsmanship \u2013it\u2019s made out of 60,000 glass beads – it invites careful examination, but rewards from afar too. Up close, it bristles, each glass bead emitting a sharp light; from further back it\u2019s almost otherworldly, a ghostly translucent sail.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n

While it’s the sculpture that might draw you to Greenwich, it\u2019s the work around it that makes you stay; the polaroids, the tools, the frayed swatches and samples, remnants and relics that never reach the runway. For those already captivated by English’s work, it’s a treasure trove, and for newcomers, her talent is immediate. Though the title of the show is unresolved – Floating, Falling, Drowning, Flying \u2013 it plots a decisive arc, too. It might be open-ended, but it\u2019s going places. Whatever comes next for English, I think it\u2019s safe to say, so is she.<\/p>\n

NOW Gallery, The Gateway Pavilions, Peninsula square, Greenwich Peninsula, London SE10 0SQ until 9 August 2015<\/strong><\/p>\n

Text von Imogen Greenhalgh<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Mehr: Nadine Goepfert’s sculptural textiles<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

More: Check out our latest fashion editorials<\/a><\/strong><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Phoebe English, NOW Gallery, May 2015. For several seasons, young British designer Phoebe English has been labelled \u2018one to watch\u2019, an \u2018up and comer\u2019 on the path to great things. Having trained under the late, legendary Louise Wilson, the sky, it seems, is the only limit for her and her darkly feminine attire.\u00a0 Now, she\u2019s…<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":21690,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[8,10172],"tags":[21,1858,2778,2779],"class_list":["post-21688","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-berlin","category-film","tag-fashion","tag-imogen-greenhalgh","tag-now-gallery","tag-phoebe-english"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"\nFlying High: Phoebe English at NOW Gallery Flying High: Phoebe English at NOW Gallery<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/flying-high-phoebe-english-at-now-gallery\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Flying High: Phoebe English at NOW Gallery Flying High: Phoebe English at NOW Gallery\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Phoebe English, NOW Gallery, May 2015. 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