{"id":39436,"date":"2016-10-13T18:01:33","date_gmt":"2016-10-13T16:01:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=39436"},"modified":"2016-10-13T18:01:33","modified_gmt":"2016-10-13T16:01:33","slug":"vulgar-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/vulgar-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Wie die Mode die Vulgarit\u00e4t neu erfand"},"content":{"rendered":"

 <\/p>\n

\"Vulgarity Haute Couture AW98 by Dior<\/p>\n

 
\n\u201cThe Vulgar: Fashion Redefined\u201d is the first fashion exhibition to plunge into the excesses of vulgarity. Psychoanalyst Adam Phillips and curator Judith Clark have gleaned international collections to assemble over one hundred radical installations that elevate the vulgar from the Renaissance era up until\u00a021st\u00a0century couture. The exhibition also unites totemic designers including Christian Dior<\/a>, Karl Lagerfeld<\/a> und Alexander McQueen<\/a> to demonstrate its aesthetic evolution.
\nBut how has fashion disrupted and reinvented the vulgar to create new expressions in the style canon? We reflect on three of the most noticeable examples throughout history.
\n <\/p>\n

\"Eighteenth Eighteenth Century Court Mantua (Robe and Petticoat), 1748\u20131750. Courtesy Fashion Museum Bath<\/p>\n

1. Fashion\u2019s early fascination with excess<\/h3>\n

\u201cPotent, provocative and sometimes shocking, the word vulgar conjures up strong images, ideas and feelings in us all.\u201d<\/em>
\nVulgarity is synonymous with extravagance. In the Eighteenth century, ostentation was the paragon of taste. It is best symbolised by the mantua: a wide over-robe which sat on top of stomachers and a petticoat. The exaggerated hoop shape became more streamlined as the bodice took over. It cinched the waist to create a new kind of inverted excess with extreme, sharp angles slicing into the torso.
\n 
\n <\/p>\n

\"Selfridges\" Selfrides Window display. Image: Flickr by steeev<\/p>\n

2. The department store as gallery<\/h3>\n

\u201cSomething to fear and something to enjoy\u201d<\/em>
\nAccelerated modernity, indulgence and consumption imbue London\u2019s early department stores. Under the arc of the Industrial Revolution, Harding, Howell & Co in the Eighteenth century and Selfridges later on, pushed boutique clothing and seasonal trends to the floor. \u201cBrazen\u201d window displays offended the conservative shoppers who deemed the \u201coutrageously vulgar\u201d to be a \u201ccounterpoint to good taste\u201d. Selfridges\u2019 elaborate shop floors resembled high art galleries that hosted early scientific innovations such as Louis Bl\u00e9riot’s monoplane.
\n 
\n <\/p>\n

\"Elephant Elephant Skirt, Walter van Beirendonck, Fall\/Winter 2010\/2011. Hat: Stephen Jones \u00a9 Ronald Stoops. Image from theweek.co.uk and Tits Tshirt, Malcolm McLaren. Image from wheretoget.it<\/p>\n

3. The exaggerated body<\/h3>\n

\u201cVulgarity exposes the scandal of good taste\u201d<\/em>
\nEdwardian-era lace and body stockings were designed to circle and locate the body\u2019s \u201cerogenous zones\u201d. Contemporary examples of this in fetish clothing is still used to exaggerate the body and to connote sex and desire. From Vivienne Westwood<\/a> and Malcolm McLaren\u2019s \u201ctits top\u201d to Walter van Beirendonck<\/a>\u2019s \u201cElephant Skirt\u201d, fashion uses the body to shape sexual vulgarity. It\u2019s an arousing aesthetic that signifies erotic excess particularly when embellished with \u201cgold, velvet, pearls and spangles.\u201d
\n 
\n\u201cThe Vulgar: Fashion Redefined<\/a>” is on display at London’s Barbican\u00a0Art Gallery until 5 February 2017<\/strong> \n 
\n 
\n <\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Since Louis XIV, excess in fashion has taken many forms<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":39483,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[11856,139],"tags":[6342,668,38,4316,4862,21,6343,1763,141,6344],"class_list":["post-39436","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sleek-art","category-art","tag-adam-phillips","tag-alexander-mcqueen","tag-art","tag-barbican","tag-christian-dior","tag-fashion","tag-judith-clark","tag-karl-lagerfeld","tag-london","tag-vulgarity"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"\nHow Fashion Reinvented Vulgarity How Fashion Reinvented Vulgarity<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/vulgar-fashion\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"How Fashion Reinvented Vulgarity How Fashion Reinvented Vulgarity\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Since Louis XIV, excess in fashion has taken many forms\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/vulgar-fashion\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-10-13T16:01:33+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Gesch\u00e4tzte Lesezeit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"2\u00a0Minuten\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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