{"id":59346,"date":"2017-11-20T18:42:17","date_gmt":"2017-11-20T17:42:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=59346"},"modified":"2017-11-20T18:42:17","modified_gmt":"2017-11-20T17:42:17","slug":"fashion-dolls-obsession","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/fashion-dolls-obsession\/","title":{"rendered":"Why It&#039;s Time To Kill Fashion&#039;s Obsession With Dolls"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Fashion is notoriously irreverent. From murder to religion, there\u2019s hardly any topic it shies from, producing controversial collections and questionable photoshoots season after season. However laudable this boldness might be, it can\u2019t be denied that some of fashion\u2019s favourite motifs would better be left in the past. Chief among them: fashion\u2019s eerie obsession with dolls.<br \/>\n<iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/SP4-8eL7S5E\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><br \/>\nWhy fashion creatives find dolls inspiring is easy to discern: the fashion industry is preoccupied with perfection, and dolls can be impeccably beautiful in a way real women can&#8217;t (just think of Barbie\u2019s unachievable proportions). But presenting the fashion doll as the beauty standard for the contemporary woman smacks of chauvinism. In his essay on fashion, 19th-century sociologist Thorsten Veblen described women as \u201ca decorative sex\u201d, whose only function was to passively submit to the male gaze. John Galliano\u2019s collection for Dior SS04 unpleasantly reminded us of Veblen\u2019s rhetoric. Inspired by Victorian dolls, the collection included hyper-sexualised, lavish, impractically voluminous gowns, accessorised with risqu\u00e9 stockings and impossible pompadours.<br \/>\nYet more disturbing was a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.whowhatwear.co.uk\/11-real-life-designer-barbie-dolls-from-vogue-paris\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">2015 editorial in Vogue Paris,<\/a>\u00a0which put models inside giant Barbie boxes filled with fashion paraphernalia. Not only did the models look uncannily, eerily doll-like, the boxes themselves resembled curio rooms \u2014 or, even more macabre, coffins. For Moschino SS17, Jeremy Scott decided to delve into the infamously chauvinist era of the 1950s for inspiration, transforming his models into retro-inspired paper-dolls. The hairstyles and flashes of flesh evoked the visual vocabulary of the pin-up, while the body-contours, printed onto the clothes, reminded us of fashion industry\u2019s merciless beauty standards.<br \/>\n<iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/EI94EKaOYwA\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><br \/>\nWhile impeccably beautiful, the doll is also comfortably passive \u2013 something that is, disconcertingly, demanded of models, too. In John Fairchild\u2019s \u201cChic Savages\u201d, WWD\u2019s formidable editor mentions an anecdote about Balenciaga spending hours fitting a dress on his favourite model, who patiently remains silent and immobile. Fast forward to the 21st century, the attitude towards models hasn\u2019t changed much. Remember last year\u2019s scandal where <a href=\"https:\/\/www.businessoffashion.com\/articles\/news-analysis\/what-really-happened-at-the-balenciaga-casting\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">150 models were made to wait in a dark stairway for three hours<\/a> while their model scouts were having lunch? Moreover, the amount of models sharing their <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/2017\/10\/23\/metoo-sexual-assault-berlin\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">stories of sexual harassment following the Weinstein allegations<\/a> has been overwhelming. Across the fashion industry, treating models as disposable objects seems to be customary. Encouragingly, initiatives to protect models have recently sprung up too, such as Cameron Russel\u2019s campaign on Instagram that helps raise awareness about the frequency of sexual abuse in the fashion industry.<a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2017\/10\/23\/fashion\/sexual-harassment-law-models-new-york-state-harvey-weinstein.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> In New York, Assemblywoman Nily Rozic announced<\/a> she would propose legal measures to protect models. These initiatives defy the decades-long tradition of seeing models as inert \u201cfashion dolls\u201d.<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-version=\"7\">\n<div style=\"padding: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background: #F8F8F8; line-height: 0; margin-top: 40px; padding: 50% 0; text-align: center; width: 100%;\">\n<div style=\"background: url(data:image\/png; base64,ivborw0kggoaaaansuheugaaacwaaaascamaaaapwqozaaaabgdbtueaalgpc\/xhbqaaaafzukdcak7ohokaaaamuexurczmzpf399fx1+bm5mzy9amaaadisurbvdjlvzxbesmgces5\/p8\/t9furvcrmu73jwlzosgsiizurcjo\/ad+eqjjb4hv8bft+idpqocx1wjosbfhh2xssxeiyn3uli\/6mnree07uiwjev8ueowds88ly97kqytlijkktuybbruayvh5wohixmpi5we58ek028czwyuqdlkpg1bkb4nnm+veanfhqn1k4+gpt6ugqcvu2h2ovuif\/gwufyy8owepdyzsa3avcqpvovvzzz2vtnn2wu8qzvjddeto90gsy9mvlqtgysy231mxry6i2ggqjrty0l8fxcxfcbbhwrsyyaaaaaelftksuqmcc); display: block; height: 44px; margin: 0 auto -44px; position: relative; top: -22px; width: 44px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BTmxRuBg7DV\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by Cameron Russell (@cameronrussell)<\/a> auf <time style=\"font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;\" datetime=\"2017-05-02T21:54:28+00:00\">May 2, 2017 at 2:54pm PDT<\/time><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async defer src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script><br \/>\nDoll-inspired collections and fashion editorials mirror this deep-rooted perception of models as dummies \u2014 voiceless and impassive objects, ready to yield to the wish of an artist (usually, a man). However, that is not to say that all collections and editorials featuring dolls should automatically be discarded as misogynist. At Viktor &amp; Rolf\u2019s couture show for Fall 2017, the Dutch designers sent models down the runway dressed as what they called \u201caction dolls\u201d. These mascots with giant woolen heads, \u201cwere to fight for the better world\u201d, the designers explained. A laudable intention, but why was it that dolls were chosen to represent it and not models? Can\u2019t real women fight for the better world, too?<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-version=\"7\">\n<div style=\"padding: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background: #F8F8F8; line-height: 0; margin-top: 40px; padding: 37.5% 0; text-align: center; width: 100%;\">\n<div style=\"background: url(data:image\/png; base64,ivborw0kggoaaaansuheugaaacwaaaascamaaaapwqozaaaabgdbtueaalgpc\/xhbqaaaafzukdcak7ohokaaaamuexurczmzpf399fx1+bm5mzy9amaaadisurbvdjlvzxbesmgces5\/p8\/t9furvcrmu73jwlzosgsiizurcjo\/ad+eqjjb4hv8bft+idpqocx1wjosbfhh2xssxeiyn3uli\/6mnree07uiwjev8ueowds88ly97kqytlijkktuybbruayvh5wohixmpi5we58ek028czwyuqdlkpg1bkb4nnm+veanfhqn1k4+gpt6ugqcvu2h2ovuif\/gwufyy8owepdyzsa3avcqpvovvzzz2vtnn2wu8qzvjddeto90gsy9mvlqtgysy231mxry6i2ggqjrty0l8fxcxfcbbhwrsyyaaaaaelftksuqmcc); display: block; height: 44px; margin: 0 auto -44px; position: relative; top: -22px; width: 44px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BbjqUWuhEIv\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by Viktor&amp;Rolf (@viktorandrolf)<\/a> auf <time style=\"font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;\" datetime=\"2017-11-16T13:07:05+00:00\">Nov 16, 2017 at 5:07am PST<\/time><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async defer src=\"\/\/platform.instagram.com\/en_US\/embeds.js\"><\/script><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/2017\/09\/19\/phoebe-english-ss18\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Phoebe English&#8217;s SS18 collection<\/a> showed a different take on the doll. Created in collaboration with puppet-maker Judith Hope, the show featured wooden puppets dressed in garments from the collection. The wooden doppelg\u00e4ngers placed next to the models did indeed look eerie, but, as the designer said, she wanted them to \u201cseem alive\u201d and the whole presentation to be \u201cperformative\u201d. In doing so, English wanted to make the puppets look like people, not to make the people look like puppets. Remarkably, Judith Hope\u2019s puppets are not pretty, either. They are fascinating, and a little uncanny, and awkward, but they are not conventional, pretty dolls.<\/p>\n<p class=\"size--small\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56843\" src=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/phoebe-english-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1000\" \/> Phoebe English SS18. Image: Phoebe English<\/p>\n<p>Phoebe English\u2019s presentation was theatrical, clever and deeply moving, demonstrating that fashion can be progressive, dramatic and female-friendly at the same time. But we ever want to move past rampant female objectification, the fashion industry needs to stop equating real women to fashion dolls. Setting the immaculate doll as the ideal beauty standard is a backward move for an industry that claims to be focused on the future.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The fashion world&#8217;s obsession with dolls is creepy, more than slightly sexist, and it&#8217;s got to go<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":56843,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[263,2274,9678,647,499,1015,9679,21,527,9680,554,9681,3130,9682,1161,1017,9683,3760,9684,9685],"class_list":["post-59346","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-balenciaga","tag-barbie","tag-cameron-russel","tag-couture","tag-design","tag-dior","tag-dolls","tag-fashion","tag-feminism","tag-harvey-weinstein","tag-jeremy-scott","tag-john-fairchild","tag-john-galliano","tag-judith-hope","tag-models","tag-moschino","tag-nily-rozic","tag-objectification","tag-pheobe-english","tag-viktor-rolf"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Why It&#039;s Time To Kill Fashion&#039;s Obsession With Dolls Why It&#039;s Time To Kill Fashion&#039;s Obsession With Dolls<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/fashion-dolls-obsession\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Why It&#039;s Time To Kill Fashion&#039;s Obsession With Dolls Why It&#039;s Time To Kill Fashion&#039;s Obsession With Dolls\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The fashion world&#039;s obsession with dolls is creepy, more than slightly sexist, and it&#039;s got to go\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/fashion-dolls-obsession\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2017-11-20T17:42:17+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Gesch\u00e4tzte Lesezeit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4\u00a0Minuten\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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