{"id":66490,"date":"2018-06-15T17:34:22","date_gmt":"2018-06-15T17:34:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=66490"},"modified":"2018-07-24T12:04:03","modified_gmt":"2018-07-24T12:04:03","slug":"female-menswear-designers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/female-menswear-designers\/","title":{"rendered":"The 3 female designers who shook up the London menswear shows"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\" Saying that London is a hub for young design talent has long become a platitude. There is, however, a less observed development in London\u2019s fashion scene: the emergence of brilliant female designers who work in menswear. Grace Wales Bonner, who was awarded the prestigious LVMH Prize two years ago, Danish designer Astrid Andersen, and the buyers\u2019 favourite Martine Rose have not only been setting trends in menswear, they’ve also been demonstrating that men’s fashion can be nuanced, multifaceted and intellectual.<\/span>
\nAt this week’s London Fashion Week Men\u2019s, it was women again who stole the show: Rose with her sartorial ode to London, Andersen, who presented an elegant update on the tracksuit, and young designer Bianca Saunders with an intelligent collection exploring black masculine identity. Here we take a look at their innovative and thought-provoking SS19 collections and examine just what it is that makes these designers\u2019 work so original.<\/span><\/p>\n

Astrid Andersen<\/strong><\/h2>\n

\"\"
\nAndersen\u2019s work is sometimes dubbed \u201cluxury sportswear\u201d, which is too narrow a definition for the designer\u2019s ongoing exploration of the tracksuit. The Copenhagen-based designer, who first presented her work at LC:M in 2012, has always been interested in the idea of the tracksuit replacing the traditional suit as the ultimate menswear staple. Rather than refining sportswear \u2014 \u201cmy clothes are definitely not activewear,\u201d she states \u2014 Andersen attempts to reinvent urban men\u2019s fashion, to make it more innovative and less prescriptive. In Andersen\u2019s SS19 presentation, the designer tried \u201cto really get the tracksuit nailed down\u201d. Against an orange-tinted, sci-fi-themed background, she showcased a collection that evoked Andr\u00e9 Courr\u00e8ges\u2019 futuristic fashion of the 1960s: streamlined sleeveless jackets; boxy tops; sweaters finished with de-centred zippers. The modernist references had a softer edge: the fabrics were lush and lightweight, while the elongated knitted pieces had an unexpectedly bohemian feel.\u00a0Has the designer succeeded in rendering the tracksuit the new suit? Perhaps not yet, but\u00a0 SS19 was definitely a landmark in her research of menswear.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Martine Rose<\/strong><\/h2>\n

\"\"
\nThat Rose, a 36-year old designer, is a consultant on Balenciaga\u2019s menswear line is not surprising. In 2014, the designer stood at the forefront of fashion\u2019s normcore movement with her collections comprising oversized leather jackets and baggy trackpants. Rose finds the poetic in the mundane, and has an meticulous eye for detail. Her looks, as a result, are graceful and impeccably assembled versions of what historically has been considered low fashion. The designer held her SS19 catwalk presentation on a dead-end street in Camden, inviting \u2014 in a Margiela-esque manner \u2014 the local residents to see the show along with Virgil Abloh (a loyal fan) and Luka Sabbat. The collection \u2014 \u201call classic things but twisted\u201d \u2014 was an eclectic assemblage of reggae and punk elements, nods to rave and Mod cultures, and seemed to contain lots of allusions to nearby Camden market. Our absolute favourite was the oversized quilted jacket worn with subtly flared jeans and a pair of loafers \u2014 an outfit both hip and dreamily vagabond at the same time. If not the best designer in the world (as her Instagram bio claims), Martine Rose is definitely one of the most fascinating working in menswear right now.<\/span><\/p>\n

Bianca Saunders<\/strong><\/h2>\n

\"\"
\nLike LVMH darling Grace Wales Bonner (who this year bowed out of this year’s LC:M in favour of private appointments), Bianca Saunders, recent graduate of Royal College of Art, investigates black masculinity in her thoughtful and eye-opening collections. By casting non-binary black models to sport her SS19 collection, entitled \u201cGestures\u201d, Saunders’ presentation was a subtle yet powerful coup to overthrow the stereotypes surrounding black male identity. Inspired by her friends and the people around her, Saunders eschews categorisations and celebrates individuality. Since one\u2019s uniqueness is most eloquently expressed through gestures, the designer devoted her collection to body language and individual mannerisms. Sculpted from fabrics that are deliberately prone to creasing, Saunders\u2019 clothes ingeniously record the wearer\u2019s movements; this poetic statement is intended to encapsulate the wearer\u2019s emotion \u2014 be it shyness, anxiety, excitement or joy \u2014 at a particular moment in time.\u00a0All in all, \u201cGestures\u201d was one of those rare collections that combines a highly conceptual approach with wearability. It’s unsurprising, then, that the recent graduate is one of the BFC\u2019s \u201cOnes to watch\u201d \u2014 we’re certainly keeping our eyes on her.<\/span><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

With their thoughtful and inspired SS19 collections, Martine Rose, Astrid Andersen and Bianca Saunders\u00a0are game-changers at London Fashion Week Men’s.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":66580,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[10747,10748,10749,2071,7382,2731,6229,93,10750,5316],"class_list":["post-66490","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-andre-courreges","tag-astrid-andersen","tag-bianca-saunders","tag-grace-wales-bonner","tag-london-fashion-week-mens","tag-lvmh-prize","tag-martine-rose","tag-menswear","tag-ss19","tag-virgil-abloh"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"\nThe 3 Female Designers Who Shook Up the London Menswear Shows<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"With their thoughtful and inspired SS19 collections, Martine Rose, Astrid Andersen and Bianca Saunders\u00a0are game-changers at London Fashion Week Men's.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/female-menswear-designers\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The 3 Female Designers Who Shook Up the London Menswear Shows\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"With their thoughtful and inspired SS19 collections, Martine Rose, Astrid Andersen and Bianca Saunders\u00a0are game-changers at London Fashion Week Men's.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/female-menswear-designers\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-06-15T17:34:22+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-07-24T12:04:03+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Gesch\u00e4tzte Lesezeit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4\u00a0Minuten\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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