{"id":67133,"date":"2018-06-28T16:50:05","date_gmt":"2018-06-28T16:50:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=67133"},"modified":"2018-07-24T11:44:53","modified_gmt":"2018-07-24T11:44:53","slug":"dissecting-seasons-major-menswear-debuts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dissecting-seasons-major-menswear-debuts\/","title":{"rendered":"Dissecting this season\u2019s major menswear debuts"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\" Louis Vuitton SS19, courtesy of Louis Vuitton<\/p>\n

It’s hard to remember the last time the fashion world played such an endless game of musical chairs with its designers. At the tail end of 2017, it felt like our favourites were dropping like flies, and we were waiting patiently to see what fashion house they\u2019d take the reins of next. In the end, the whole thing wound up to be woefully unpredictable, and we were left with a series of wild surprises and predictable choices that provided plenty of talking points for journalists, fashion fans and bloggers alike. <\/span>
\nAfter a few months of feeling apprehensive about what our favourite labels\u2019 latest outputs were going to look like \u2014 including plenty of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton naysayers (who\u2019s laughing now?) \u2014 we finally got our first look at the latest crop\u2019s great work as Paris Fashion Week Spring\/Summer 2019 rolled around.<\/span>
\nSo with just Hedi Slimane left to debut his take on menswear with C\u00e9line, presumably as part of a co-ed show during womenswear season, there were just three names on the list that people were crazy excited to catch a first glimpse of: Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones at Dior and Jacquemus trying his hand at an eponymous menswear line for the first time. From the rainbow-doused Palais Royal in Paris to the beaches of Marseilles, here\u2019s our succinct run down of everything you should know about this season\u2019s menswear debuts.<\/span><\/p>\n

Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton<\/b><\/h2>\n

\"\" Louis Vuitton Menswear SS19<\/p>\n

A spirit of fantasy, journey and optimism lay under Virgil Abloh\u2019s first menswear collection for Louis Vuitton, and that manifested in his choice of set-up for the show too. Dozens of diversely-cast models \u2014 everybody\u2019s place of birth, as well as the location of their parent\u2019s place of birth was provided to attendees in a kit left on their seats \u2014\u00a0marched down a rainbow-coloured runway outside the famous Palais Royal. Perhaps, people will remember Abloh\u2019s collection for the way it forced the storied house to think bigger, even after Kim Jones\u2019 already boundary-pushing moves there. \u00a0The collection itself was an ode to new beginnings and the idea of possibility: it started with a palette-cleansing set of ten white looks, that expanded into wearable (read: brilliantly basic) pieces, like slouchy suit jackets, boxy denim shirts and finely tailored tennis shorts. His accessories were the kind of forward-thinking pieces we\u2019ve seen him turn into ubiquitous staples before: iridescent monogrammed holdalls, construction-worker gloves and fine porcelain-like chains that are bound to reach new heights when it comes to buyer desirability. But the most sought after garments? The LV x Wizard of Oz collaboration, including two knitted sweaters and a silk shirt that bore the iconic shot of Dorothy and friends skipping down the yellow brick road, their figures transformed into silhouettes. After all, through Abloh\u2019s lens, everybody and anybody is capable of taking their place \u2014 achieving something that once seemed impossible \u00e0 la the designer himself.<\/span><\/p>\n

Kim Jones at Dior<\/b><\/h2>\n

\"\" Dior Menswear SS19<\/p>\n

As the high fashion world enters a new age, crossing paths with streetwear to make even couturier pieces a touch more casual, Kim Jones clearly felt a need to carve his own path and turn the industry back on itself. His first menswear collection for Dior (note, Dior Homme as a brand is dead \u2014 <\/span>just check Instagram<\/span><\/a>) saw the designer return to his atelier roots, and focused on the minute details that his tailoring prowess gave him the opportunity to toy with. For his debut, Jones\u2019 scoured through the old archives of Dior\u2019s womenswear to create a collection shaped by softness and romanticism. The opening look saw Prince Nikolai of Denmark march around a floral statue created by Kaws, wearing a double breasted seersucker-style jacket, with sheer blue-white stripes on the sleeves. The whole collection played with this idea of spinning classic sartorial pieces into something less simple, while still retaining a slightly antiquated feel. White striped trenches and tailoring were made from materials so crisp \u2014 and often see-through \u2014 that they looked like they would fall apart like butterfly wings if you touched them. Trousers made from these fine threads were held up with big-clasp belts designed by Matthew Williams \u2014 whose brand ALYX is one of the most talked about in the industry right now \u2014 in a pleasing juxtaposition of delicate and strong. Meanwhile, \u00a0most models paired their Sunday Best looks with sneakers and a leather hip-bag: an allusion to the fact that, even when we try to break free, casual streetwear is the inescapable trend we\u2019re bound to be buying into for the next few years.<\/span><\/p>\n

Jacquemus<\/b><\/h2>\n

\"\" Jacquemus Menswear SS19<\/p>\n

Where better for French fashion\u2019s handsome, homebird designer Simon Porte Jacquemus to debut his first menswear collection than an isolated beach by the town he grew up in? His first outing as a menswear designer was titled <\/span>\u2018Le Gadjo\u2019, and used the archetypal, Mediterranean man \u2014 bronzed skin, nonchalant with his style, achingly beautiful \u2014 as his muse. It was distinctly more preppy than many critics had been expecting, considering how seductive and flattering his womenswear is. Patterned shirts, adorned with sunflowers and tropical prints, were either unbuttoned down to the navel and tucked into shorts, exposing chiseled chests, or worn like dress shirts, paired with formal ties. His knitwear, baggy and taking colour cues from parasols and beach bags, felt like they were designed for moonlit walks home from the seaside \u2013\u00a0budgy smuggler swimsuit underneath. For his first attempt at menswear \u2014\u00a0no easy feat for a man whose knowledge of the female form is so intrinsic, it\u2019s bound to be a challenge to leave that sensibility behind \u2014 people were expecting something a little more soft and sensual. Nevertheless, Jacquemus\u2019 crowd-pleasing pieces were the kind the high fashion crowd and beach adonis could swap out a like, and it was a welcome surprise. To the alps for autumn\/winter 2019, Simon?<\/span><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

From the rainbow-doused Palais Royal in Paris to the beaches of Marseilles, here\u2019s everything you need to know about SS19\u2019s inaugural men’s collections.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":67162,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[1015,127,7340,212,2335,93,27,56,10818,10750,5316],"class_list":["post-67133","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","tag-dior","tag-jacquemus","tag-kim-jones","tag-louis-vuitton","tag-marseille","tag-menswear","tag-paris","tag-paris-fashion-week","tag-simon-porte-jacquemus","tag-ss19","tag-virgil-abloh"],"acf":{"main_category":null,"legacy":"1","exclude_from_ads":null,"hero_title":null,"subtitle":null,"hero":null,"teasers":null,"facebook_image":null,"related_articles":null,"next_article":null,"sleek_card_focus":null,"content":null},"yoast_head":"\nDissecting this Season\u2019s Major Menswear Debuts<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"From the rainbow-doused Palais Royal in Paris to the beaches of Marseilles, here\u2019s everything you need to know about this season\u2019s menswear debuts.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dissecting-seasons-major-menswear-debuts\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Dissecting this Season\u2019s Major Menswear Debuts\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"From the rainbow-doused Palais Royal in Paris to the beaches of Marseilles, here\u2019s everything you need to know about this season\u2019s menswear debuts.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dissecting-seasons-major-menswear-debuts\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-06-28T16:50:05+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-07-24T11:44:53+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Gesch\u00e4tzte Lesezeit\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"5\u00a0Minuten\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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