{"id":68610,"date":"2018-07-09T12:12:05","date_gmt":"2018-07-09T12:12:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=68610"},"modified":"2018-08-03T14:11:53","modified_gmt":"2018-08-03T14:11:53","slug":"lutz-huelle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/lutz-huelle\/","title":{"rendered":"Lutz Huelle pr\u00e4sentiert die ausgefallenste Mode, die es jemals an den T\u00fcrstehern des Berghain vorbei geschafft hat"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[8,81,10172],"tags":[6934,19,10247,10871,5967,5323,5371],"class_list":["post-68610","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-berlin","category-fashion","category-film","tag-angela-merkel","tag-berlin-fashion-week","tag-femininity","tag-halle-am-berghain","tag-lutz-huelle","tag-margiela","tag-techno"],"acf":{"main_category":81,"legacy":false,"subtitle":"We sat down with the celebrated German designer to discuss the possibilities of fashion prior to his Berlin Fashion Week show at the infamous techno hotspot.","hero":{"video":false,"image":false,"header_color":"black","overlay_color":"","overlay_text_color":"black"},"teasers":{"video":false,"image":false,"width":"4","proportion":"default"},"related_articles":[68595,68609,68575],"next_article":"","content":[{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

\u201cI don\u2019t like it when it\u2019s obvious,\u201d\u00a0Lutz Huelle<\/a> tells me about his designs ahead of his first fashion show in Germany last Friday night. Earlier that day, Huelle met with the German Chancellor, Angela Merkel<\/a>, before presenting a selection of his favourite looks from the last two seasons in the hallowed halls of Berlin techno Mecca, Berghain, for BFW. The glaring juxtaposition of these two events proves that Huelle is nothing if not unpredictable. And, as the first model stepped out into the cavernous space \u2014 incandescent under the glow of splendid chandeliers \u2014 to a virtuoso string composition by Vivaldi, it was clear that nothing about this spectacle would be obvious or expected.<\/span><\/p>\n

The normally Paris-based designer explains that he wants clothes to \u201cpose questions\u201d \u2014 he does not want to be able to sum up a person\u2019s character just by glancing at what they are wearing. \u201cWhat I really like is when you can\u2019t dig up anything about who that woman is\u201d. This sense of complexity is palpable in Huelle\u2019s ensembles. There is an intellectual density and rigour to his designs that somehow translates into an effort to capture the multiplicity of female identity. \u201cFashion gives you the chance to decide if you are this person, or that person, or someone else entirely, or a mixture of all three,\u201d explains Huelle. \u201cIt\u2019s such freedom if you think about it, because if you’re born into a specific social construct, or find yourself in a certain situation, but you\u2019re not that kind of person at all, you can show that by choosing not to dress like that.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

Somehow, this pronouncement of freedom is befitting of the show’s setting, even if the gleaming crystal chandeliers and a crowd consisting of the polished Berlin glitterati is not (elegant summer trouser suits and bright block colours replaced the regular all-black dress code ordinarily punctuated with PVC and mesh). With the ferocious 18th-century opening number seamlessly segueing into the jumpy euphoria of trance classic, The Age of Love,<\/span><\/i> Huelle\u2019s transformation of the hedonistic, anything-goes techno paradise into an epic Baroque banquet hall, didn\u2019t feel so incongruous after all. \u00a0The marriage of Huelle\u2019s thoughtful brand of glamour and the notorious clubbing hotspot, was perhaps aided by Huelle\u2019s own connection to the legendary venue, \u201cI\u2019ve had so many wonderful times in Berghain so it\u2019s really unreal to be presenting my clothes here,\u201d the designer cooed before the show. <\/span><\/p>\n

As for the clothes themselves? These might have been \u201cgreatest hits\u201d from recent seasons but Huelle\u2019s ensembles assumed a new drama and significance in a space so at odds with their almost old-fashioned pomp. Ostentatious tulip sleeves and ballroom puffball skirts had the plump expanse of 1950s Dior or Balenciaga, while shimmering jacquard and dangling <\/span>diamant\u00e9 earrings augmented this aura of grandeur. That is not to say that this presentation was rooted in dusty couture affectations, however; on the contrary, Huelle\u2019s commitment to designing clothes for \u201creality\u201d \u2014 as he puts it \u2014 undeniably shone through.<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

The reality of Huelle\u2019s garments is present in the mix-match of fabrics and genres. Oversized denim sits easily with futuristic foil padding and feminine lace; skinny trousers complement scintillating pleated tunics; a grey hoodie pokes out from a pinstriped suit, or a navy blue bomber is finished with a soft, feathery hem in an perfect collision of reality and fantasy. Despite their gorgeous splendour, Huelle insists that \u201cthese clothes need to be worn by people in real life situations because otherwise I have failed my job\u201d.<\/p>\n

Huelle, who cut his teeth in the industry at Margiela \u2014 because he \u201cunderstood what Margiela was doing\u201d and shared a similar thought process to the cult Belgian designer \u2014\u00a0does not want \u201crules\u201d to dictate \u201cwhat is high fashion and what is low fashion\u201d. He celebrates the current fondness for streetwear on the runway because \u201cwhy would we constrain ourselves to certain things? Why would we make differences between certain kinds of clothes?\u201d He finds such hierarchies \u201cold and boring\u201d, preferring instead to put everything he likes together and “to see what happens\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The final look was the epitome of Huelle\u2019s desire to combine styles and elements with an open mind. A gold jacquard puffball was paired with elbow length leather gloves and a perfectly Instagram-able, oversized tee emblazoned with the words: \u201cThere\u2019s no one like you\u201d. Despite the ensemble\u2019s theatricality, it somehow felt like a contemporary interpretation of femininity, one that is smart, romantic, cool and powerful all at once. According to Huelle, it\u2019s not that he has a particular woman in mind when he designs, but it’s more about \u201ca very open way to see clothes\u201d. \u201c<\/span>I think the women who wear my clothes can feel that \u2014 it\u2019s never a certain age, or a certain body shape, or a certain kind of profession, it\u2019s just a certain kind of spirit\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

We sent Devon Kaylor to snap backstage. Take a peek here:\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"gallery","gallery":false,"settings":{"height":"100","images_to_show":"5","caption":"Backstage images by Devon Kaylor.\r\n\r\nRunway images courtesy of\u00a0Fashion\u00a0Council Germany."}}],"hero_title":""},"yoast_head":"\nLutz Huelle Presents the Fanciest Fashion Ever to Make it Past the Berghain Bouncers Lutz Huelle Presents the Fanciest Fashion Ever to Make it Past the Berghain Bouncers<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/lutz-huelle\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Lutz Huelle Presents the Fanciest Fashion Ever to Make it Past the Berghain Bouncers Lutz Huelle Presents the Fanciest Fashion Ever to Make it Past the Berghain Bouncers\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/lutz-huelle\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-07-09T12:12:05+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-08-03T14:11:53+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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