{"id":68917,"date":"2018-08-03T14:10:03","date_gmt":"2018-08-03T14:10:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=68917"},"modified":"2018-08-28T13:56:11","modified_gmt":"2018-08-28T13:56:11","slug":"martin-margiela-galliera","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/martin-margiela-galliera\/","title":{"rendered":"Peek inside the now-closed exhibition celebrating the rare genius of Martin Margiela"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Did you miss the major Margiela retrospective in Paris? Fear not \u2014 we&#8217;ve got you covered with an exclusive video by Laure Atanasyan, guiding you around the landmark show<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[81],"tags":[10893,10776,830,10892,10891,27,2430,42],"class_list":["post-68917","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fashion","tag-1989-2009","tag-laure-atanasyan","tag-maison-martin-margiela","tag-margiela-galliera","tag-palais-galliera","tag-paris","tag-retrospective","tag-video"],"acf":{"main_category":81,"legacy":false,"hero_title":"","subtitle":"Did you miss the major Margiela retrospective in Paris? Fear not \u2014 we've got you covered with an exclusive video by Laure Atanasyan, guiding you around the landmark show","hero":{"video":false,"image":false,"header_color":"black","overlay_color":"","overlay_text_color":"black"},"teasers":{"video":false,"image":false,"width":"8","proportion":"natural"},"related_articles":[57442,64516,38302],"next_article":[68843],"content":[{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"<p><iframe src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/282988911\" width=\"1500\" height=\"450\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"<p>On Sunday 15th July, along with the celebration of France\u2019s triumph at the World Cup, a much less publicised event took place in Paris \u2014 the closure of\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr\/en\/exhibitions\/margiela\/galliera-1989-2009\"><i>Margiela \/ Galliera, 1989-2009<\/i><\/a>, Palais Galliera\u2019s immense Martin Margiela show. The exhibition \u2014 captured here exclusively for SLEEK by filmmaker Laure Atanasyan \u2014 presented the most comprehensive retrospective of the Belgian designer\u2019s work to date. With more than 130 pieces on view, it followed Margiela\u2019s oeuvre from his first collection, shown in 1988 in Marais, to his very last day at the namesake brand.<\/p>\n<p>Margiela left his Maison on the evening after the Spring\/Summer 2009 show, exactly 20 years after the brand was founded. Now, a decade after his departure, Margiela\u2019s ideas remain as relevant as ever, while his designs prove a constant source of inspiration for other fashion designers.<\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"<div id=\"373533363935\" class=\"grid__element 373533363935 article__text article__element\" data-reset=\"true\">\n<div class=\"grid__element__resetter\">\n<div class=\"wrapper-link \" role=\"presentation\">\n<div class=\"size--text\">\n<p>\u201cHe is worshipped almost religiously,\u201d says Alexandre Samson, the curator of the exhibition. \u201cThere are people who would eagerly carve his name into their skin.\u201d For Samson, however, the goal was to use the exhibition as an opportunity to tell a story that would \u201cinspire even those who have little to do with the world of fashion.\u201d In the end, the barely advertised show was visited by more than 80,000 people \u2014 a figure that must reassure the curator that he more than succeeded in his task.<\/p>\n<p>Samson and Olivier Saillard \u201a the then-director of the museum \u2014 first contacted Martin Margiela in the summer of 2016 with their proposal for an exhibition. Shortly afterwards, they received a \u201cyes\u201d. In the following two years, Samson spent \u201chours and hours talking to the designer\u201d and many days chasing down his vintage pieces. As well as drawing from the huge collection of Margiela designs belonging to the Galliera archive, the show featured loans from 27 collectors. \u201cConvincing them to loan pieces wasn\u2019t always easy,\u201d remembers Samson. \u201cThere\u2019s always a lot of drama and a lot of emotion attached to Margiela\u2019s work.\u201d This air of theatricality occasionally extended to Samson\u2019s hunt for the treasured pieces too: \u201cOnce, on my way to see a collector, I found myself close to Verona during a tremendous storm with thunderbolts flashing,\u201d he laughs.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div id=\"\" class=\"grid__element article__images article__element\" data-reset=\"false\">\n<div class=\"grid__element__resetter\">\n<div id=\"\" class=\"grid__element \" data-reset=\"true\">\n<div class=\"grid__element__resetter\">\n<div class=\"image-video article__images__image\">\n<div class=\"waypoint--viewport\">\n<div class=\"waypoint--preload\">\n<div class=\"fit-container \">\n<div class=\"fit-container__inner\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"blockquote","text":"\"There\u2019s always a lot of drama and a lot of emotion attached to Margiela\u2019s work.\"","source":""},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"<div id=\"343035303831\" class=\"grid__element 343035303831 article__text article__element\" data-reset=\"true\">\n<div class=\"grid__element__resetter\">\n<div class=\"wrapper-link \" role=\"presentation\">\n<div class=\"size--text\">\n<p>But the most extraordinary thing that happened to Samson while preparing for the show was meeting the elusive designer himself. \u201cThough I\u2019ve always been a fan of his work, I\u2019ve never been a fan of his. Still, on the day when I was supposed to meet him for the first time, I felt like an excited six-year-old with shaky knees,\u201d he says. Paradoxically, for someone so notoriously enigmatic and anonymous, Samson found Margiela to be \u201cvery open and very much present\u201d. \u201cIt\u2018s almost as though this anonymity allows him to remain sincere, open and approachable,\u201d the curator reflects.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps the most wonderful thing about the exhibition at Galliera was that it managed to convey not only the intellectual aspect of Maison Martin Margiela but also the emotional one. From the recordings of the early \u201890s shows and the graffiti-covered Tabi boots to the careful descriptions and the installations staged by Margiela himself, the show demonstrated how bold, fresh, inventive and humorous Margiela\u2019s work was, as well as its fearlessly unorthodox position among the high-voltage glamour of the \u201990s and \u201900s.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"<p>\u201cMartin Margiela\u2019s approach has always been very avant-garde. Very arty in a way,\u201d says Samson. \u201cHe actually told me that when he was a student at the Royal Academy in Antwerp, the teachers initially advised him to study art. But he didn\u2019t want to, he just wanted to make clothes.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Some of Margiela\u2019s most audacious, \u201carty\u201d pieces were on view, too. The SS90 paper vest made from advertisements found on the Paris subway, for instance, and the renowned pieces from his long-running \u201cReplica\u201d project, whereby the designer painstakingly recreated garments from the past with a quirky thoroughness. Of course, the obvious hits were there as well \u2013 the Stockmann collection from 1997; the oversized pieces from 2000; the wig coats \u2013 but the retrospective also shed light on the lesser known facets of Margiela\u2019s career. His preoccupation with reinterpreting Edwardian and Victorian motifs, for example, evidenced throughout his early 90s collections \u2014 think: the deconstructed corsets he produced in 1991 or his cloaks of 1993.<\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"<p>Though Margiela himself hails from Belgium, it feels natural that this retrospective was held in Paris. The brand\u2019s history echoes throughout the city, from the 18th Arrondissement where its all-white headquarters were located, to the many unique spots that have played host to Margiela\u2019s shows. For examples, look no further than the show held on the outskirts of Paris, with children running among the models; the mysteriously beautiful, candle-lit show inside the deserted Saint-Martin subway station; the show at the Montmartre cemetery and, of course the designer\u2019s very first runway display \u2014 held at a small theatre on Rue du Temple in Marais.<\/p>\n<p>It also seems right that the retrospective took place at the Palais Galliera, where a young Martin Margiela (anonymously, of course) would spend hours perusing the museum\u2019s celebrated collection. Galliera was also the first museum to display Margiela\u2019s work \u2014 in 1991 \u2014 and the first to start acquiring his works as part of their archive. The way the exhibition was curated was Margiela-esque, too, Samson notes with a chuckle \u2014 with hardly any financial support, the museum, had to be inventive. \u201cMargiela was very good at improvising,\u201d he tells us. \u201cAt one of his early shows, when he had no accessories, he ran a white ribbon through the models\u2019 fingers. The ribbon looked like a knuckleduster.\u201d And don\u2019t forget Margiela\u2019s fabled repainting of the same shoes for several seasons because producing new ones would be too expensive.<\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":false,"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"<p>Today\u2019s Maison Margiela (the \u201cMartin\u201d was omitted several seasons ago) has little to do with the raw creativity of the early days. After Margiela sold his brand to the OTB group in 2003, it was forced to take a more commercial attitude. According to some sources, the reason Margiela left was because OTB wanted to re-brand the cult fashion house\u2019s products, as well as launching new lines and increasing advertising. \u201cOr maybe he felt he didn\u2019t have much to say in the era of social networks,\u201d proffers Samson. In any case, what is certain is that when Margiela departed from his eponymous house, it marked the end of a fashion epoch: an epoch where fashion was more about clothes than \u201clikes\u201d on Instagram; an era of independent brands and fashion shows with free seating. At a time when Margiela\u2019s work is so frequently imitated, his retrospective came as an important reminder: contemporary fashion has to produce its own definition of originality, or risk becoming nothing but a wasteful industry.<\/p>\n"}],"facebook_image":false},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Peek inside the now-closed exhibition celebrating the rare genius of Martin Margiela Peek inside the now-closed exhibition celebrating the rare genius of Martin Margiela<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/martin-margiela-galliera\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Peek inside the now-closed exhibition celebrating the rare genius of Martin Margiela Peek inside the now-closed exhibition celebrating the rare genius of Martin Margiela\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Did you miss the major Margiela retrospective in Paris? 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