{"id":73870,"date":"2019-02-05T18:13:42","date_gmt":"2019-02-05T18:13:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=73870"},"modified":"2019-02-06T10:28:12","modified_gmt":"2019-02-06T10:28:12","slug":"dior-designer-of-dreams","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dior-designer-of-dreams\/","title":{"rendered":"From full silhouettes to the Saddle bag: tracing the legacy of Dior at the V&A’s new 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Rajzak in Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano Fall 07. 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\u201cFashion had seen nothing like it for years,\u201d wrote Tim Blanks in July 2012, establishing the merit of Raf Simons\u2019 slick new Dior in the opening sentence of a Style.com review. The Belgian designer\u2019s first couture outing was produced in just eight weeks \u2013 an undertaking highlighted in the subsequent documentary, <\/span>Dior & I<\/span><\/i> \u2013 unveiled in the 16<\/span>th<\/span> Arrondissement in a series of salons coated in a million fresh flowers, watched firsthand by his peers: Marc Jacobs, <\/span>Azzedine Ala\u00efa<\/span> and Donatella Versace. Six and half years later, the collection and corresponding hype remain a defining moment of Simons\u2019 short tenure at the house.<\/span><\/p>\n

For his predecessor John Galliano (1997-2011), designs of raging opulence \u2013 coupled with the introduction of the iconic Saddle bag in 1999 \u2013 have long secured him an elaborate chapter in the House of Dior\u2019s history. More recently, the appointment of Maria Grazia Chiuri, as the first woman at Dior’s helm, has ensured the brand\u2019s relevancy in a changing fashion scene. The reproduction of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie\u2019s \u2018We Should All Be Feminists’ on white T-shirts in her SS17 debut, is undoubtedly <\/span>a moment<\/span><\/i> that\u2019ll only further prove symbolic later down the line.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI think it\u2019s hard to gauge which of Dior\u2019s successors has had the biggest cultural impact,\u201d asserts Connie Karol Burks, one of the curators behind the V&A’s latest blockbuster exhibition,\u00a0<\/span>Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams<\/span><\/i><\/a>, the most comprehensive exhibition on the fashion house ever staged in the UK, which opened last weekend. \u201cI mean obviously John Galliano had a huge impact with his very exuberant and extravagant designs, really a moment of excess of couture. And I think we have to highlight Maria Grazia Chiuri as being the first woman to take the house. It\u2019s exciting, she\u2019s really brought couture to a modern and younger audience and taken her own twist on it, making it relevant to women today.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":73900,"id":73900,"title":"Christian Dior with model Lucky, circa 1955. 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Dior He\u0301ritage collection, Paris","filename":"Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","filesize":225818,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dior-designer-of-dreams\/christian-dior-by-maria-grazia-chiuri-b-1964-dress-haute-couture-springsummer-2018-photo-c-laziz-hamani-laziz-hamani-dior-heritage-collection-paris\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"christian-dior-by-maria-grazia-chiuri-b-1964-dress-haute-couture-springsummer-2018-photo-c-laziz-hamani-laziz-hamani-dior-heritage-collection-paris","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":73870,"date":"2019-02-05 17:22:40","modified":"2019-02-05 17:22:40","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1500,"height":1859,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","thumbnail-width":77,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","medium-width":1500,"medium-height":1859,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","medium_large-width":1500,"medium_large-height":1859,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","large-width":1500,"large-height":1859,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","1536x1536-width":1239,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","2048x2048-width":1500,"2048x2048-height":1859,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":10,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-Maria-Grazia-Chiuri-b.1964-Dress-Haute-Couture-SpringSummer-2018.-Photo-c-Laziz-Hamani.-Laziz-Hamani.-Dior-He\u0301ritage-collection-Paris.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1500,"wpvr_mobile-height":1859}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"4","caption":"Left: Christian Dior with model Lucky, circa 1955. Courtesy of Christian Dior. Right: Christian Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Haute Couture, SS18. Photo \u00a9 Laziz Hamani\r\n\r\n "}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

The latest embodiments of the Dior house codes, the three designers \u2014 Simons, Galliano, Chiuri \u2014 are all present in the new show, which focuses on couture, exploring the history of the house and the lasting influence of its namesake, as well as the correlation between Christian Dior\u2019s original vision and that of its latterday leads. Those who immediately guided the house following Dior\u2019s passing from a heart attack in 1957, are similarly represented, with designs by Yves Saint Laurent (1957-1960), Marc Bohan (1960-1989) and Gianfranco <\/span>Ferr\u00e9 (1989-1997) physically close in proximity to the contemporary parties.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThe thing that stands out for me is Marc Bohan,\u201d Burks continues. \u201cHe was at the house for 29 years \u2013 an incredible feat \u2013 and he took the house through the cultural shift of the \u201860s and \u201870s and kept it relevant; kept the house alive. Yet, he\u2019s not a name that a lot of fashion people know.<\/span> We use a quote in the exhibition from him, \u2018never forget the woman\u2019 and he made clothes that women really wanted. There\u2019s a lot of lifelong clients who began when Christian Dior was at the helm but maintained their custom well into the Bohan years.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Opened on 16<\/span> December 1946 with three ateliers and a staff of fifty eight, Christian Dior, the couture house, would make its catwalk debut the following February. \u201cIt\u2019s quite a revolution, dear Christian,\u201d announced Carmel Snow, editor of Harper\u2019s Bazaar (US) at the time, \u201cYour dresses have such a new look!\u201d Nipped in at the waist and with full skirts that fell below the knee, the silhouette was an instant triumph, but proved a controversial anomaly arriving post-WWII, when austerity-generated restrictions were in place. As a result, posters blasting the message \u201cMr. Dior we abhor dresses to the floor\u201d greeted the designer in Chicago in 1947, carried by protestors unimpressed by this exhibition of excess.<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":73904,"id":73904,"title":"Christian Dior by John Galliano b.1960, Haute Couture, AutumnWinter 2004 Photo \u00a9 Laziz Hamani","filename":"Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","filesize":320712,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dior-designer-of-dreams\/christian-dior-by-john-galliano-b-1960-haute-couture-autumnwinter-2004-photo-laziz-hamani\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"christian-dior-by-john-galliano-b-1960-haute-couture-autumnwinter-2004-photo-laziz-hamani","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":73870,"date":"2019-02-05 17:40:29","modified":"2019-02-05 17:40:29","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1500,"height":2002,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","thumbnail-width":72,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","medium-width":1500,"medium-height":2002,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","medium_large-width":1500,"medium_large-height":2002,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","large-width":1500,"large-height":2002,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","1536x1536-width":1151,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","2048x2048-width":1500,"2048x2048-height":2002,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":9,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Christian-Dior-by-John-Galliano-b.1960-Haute-Couture-AutumnWinter-2004-Photo-\u00a9-Laziz-Hamani.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1500,"wpvr_mobile-height":2002}},{"ID":73903,"id":73903,"title":"Christian Dior with model Sylvie, circa 1948. 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Right: Christian Dior with model Sylvie, circa 1948. Courtesy of Christian Dior"}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

Lasting just a decade, the impact of Dior\u2019s own short tenure was mammoth. While in design the New Look, an interest in travel and his preoccupation with the garden, (informed by his childhood at Granville, Normandy) have all continued to manifest in the aesthetics of the house \u2013 from silhouette to set design \u2013 its his position on branding and accessibility which is perhaps the most impressive and far reaching feature of the designer\u2019s legacy, practiced industry-wide and across culture today.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe touch on the real head to toe approach [in the exhibition],\u201d Burks comments. \u201cSomething that started with Christian Dior, where he thought \u2018no outfit is complete without a perfume\u2019 \u2013 he also was determined to do stockings and gloves and hats and really dress women from head to toe, which meant that even people who couldn\u2019t afford a couture gown, could splash out on a pair of gloves and have that little bit of Dior in their wardrobe.\u201d Indeed, Dior saw perfume as integral to haute couture from as early as 1947 \u2013 Miss Dior materialised within several months of his first collection \u2013 and its in this vein that the head to toe approach persists in 2019, with the addition of celebrity endorsements, diffusion lines and social media.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cEach of the designers have harped back to the biography of Christian Dior,\u201d concludes Burks, \u201cwhich is partly why I think the house has maintained its relevance, to look back to the power of the New Look and the amazing designs Christian Dior released on the world, reinterpreting the successes of the house for the contemporary audience.\u201d One of the most literal interpretations of this can be seen early on in <\/span>Designer of Dreams<\/span><\/i>: Dior\u2019s iconic Bar Suit, gifted to the museum in 1960, stands a metre from a mirroring ensemble by Maria Grazia Chiuri, an arresting display of fashion heritage.<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

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Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams<\/em><\/a> is at the V&A runs through to 14 July 2019.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n"}]},"yoast_head":"\nFrom full silhouettes to the Saddle bag: tracing the legacy of Dior at the V&A's new exhibition From full silhouettes to the Saddle bag: tracing the legacy of Dior at the V&A's new exhibition<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dior-designer-of-dreams\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"From full silhouettes to the Saddle bag: tracing the legacy of Dior at the V&A's new exhibition From full silhouettes to the Saddle bag: tracing the legacy of Dior at the V&A's new exhibition\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/dior-designer-of-dreams\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-02-05T18:13:42+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2019-02-06T10:28:12+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Zoe Whitfield\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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