{"id":74310,"date":"2019-02-20T15:30:50","date_gmt":"2019-02-20T15:30:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=74310"},"modified":"2019-02-20T16:46:22","modified_gmt":"2019-02-20T16:46:22","slug":"supriya-lele","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/","title":{"rendered":"London designer Supriya Lele on subverting medical scrubs into powerfully feminine fetish 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\u2018Medical\u2019 as a theme has a diverse fashion history. Alexander McQueen built a padded asylum cell for his Spring 2001 collection, VOSS, to explore states of madness and incarceration, asking Erin O’ Connor to \u201cgo mental, have a nervous breakdown, die, and then come back to life\u201d. Meanwhile, Marc Jacobs\u2019s SS08 collection for Louis Vuitton saw kinky nurses in see-through plastic coats, caps and surgical masks bring a tongue-in-cheek, pop cultural reference to the catwalk, inspired by notorious copycat artist, Richard Prince.<\/span><\/p>\n

For her latest collection showcased at <\/span>London Fashion Week<\/span><\/a>, British-Indian designer <\/span>Supriya Lele<\/a>\u00a0also\u00a0<\/span>embarked on an exploration of the medical world, albeit one that is far more grounded in family roots. \u201cI spoke to my mum, aunt, and grandma quite a bit as part of research for the collection,\u201d Lele, who comes from a long line of female doctors, tells SLEEK. \u201cI literally got scrubs from the hospital and cut them apart to see how they might work. Then I looked a lot at images of old nurses uniforms, saris and a lot of bodices.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Inescapably, a fetish element comes into play with Lele\u2019s take on uniforms. Nurses, from Elle Driver in <\/span>Kill Bill\u00a0<\/span><\/i>to Paz de La Huerta in <\/span>Nurse 3D,<\/span><\/i> are ever present as sexualised figures in popular culture, and Lele indulges in these references through her use of slick cotton-backed black rubber to sculpt form-fitting bodices, fetish wear-inspired apron skirts, as well as suggestive white tights tucked into Manolo Blahniks.\u00a0<\/span>The resulting silhouettes evoke a sultry, dominatrix air of authority. Lele\u2019s key goal, however, is to create ultra feminine drapery that gives her women a sense of empowerment, rather than a feeling of objectification as projected by the male gaze. <\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":74336,"id":74336,"title":"London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019 - Supriya Le Le","filename":"Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","filesize":270412,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-5\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-5","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":74310,"date":"2019-02-20 15:57:18","modified":"2019-02-20 16:03:50","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1280,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","medium-width":1280,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","medium_large-width":1280,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","large-width":1280,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","1536x1536-width":1024,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","2048x2048-width":1280,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0005.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1280,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":74334,"id":74334,"title":"London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019 - Supriya Le Le","filename":"Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","filesize":320228,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-3\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-3","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":74310,"date":"2019-02-20 15:56:56","modified":"2019-02-20 16:03:58","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1280,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","medium-width":1280,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","medium_large-width":1280,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","large-width":1280,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","1536x1536-width":1024,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","2048x2048-width":1280,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0003.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1280,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"4","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

\u201cWe wanted to keep it quite chic,\u201d says Lele, pointing to the significance of luxurious silks, Steiff faux mohair fur and high-end technical nylons from Italy, throughout. This was a woman’s vision of a matriarch who commands sexual prowess in a subdued and authoritative fashion, quite a contrast to Richard Malone\u2019s AW19 exploration of a mother figure on the school run with the kids.<\/span><\/p>\n

Lele\u2019s mixed British-Indian heritage also made a stamp on the collection: pale NHS-blue crosses were sourced from a traditional Indian textile motif, Madras check was juxtaposed with heritage British Hainsworth wool, deconstructed floral textiles clashed with a layer of fluoro-gossamer mesh, and sari designs were styled with kilts.\u00a0<\/span>Yet, Lele\u2019s latest offering neither felt wholly Indian or British, concept or luxury driven, technical or high-end, but something far more intricate and new. \u201cIf you look at my clothes on a rail, and didn\u2019t know the personal story, I would hope you would just think of them as really nice clothes, rather than derivative of a certain culture,\u201d says Lele. \u201cI make these clothes from my own experiences, so I don\u2019t see them either as traditional or contemporary.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

The former architecture student\u2019s artistry seamlessly blends a myriad of reference points. Where there could have been a simplistic colour palette of powder blue scrubs, sterile white lab coats or A&E blood red, Lele chose earthy rusts, warm terracotta and olive green teals instead, creating a more elusive character for her women \u00a0\u2014 save for the occasional punch of neon referencing rave culture. The models, meanwhile, hailed from white, African and Asian heritage.<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":74344,"id":74344,"title":"London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019 - Supriya Le Le","filename":"Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","filesize":290862,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-13\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-13","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":74310,"date":"2019-02-20 15:58:00","modified":"2019-02-20 16:04:02","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1280,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","medium-width":1280,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","medium_large-width":1280,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","large-width":1280,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","1536x1536-width":1024,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","2048x2048-width":1280,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0013.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1280,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":74339,"id":74339,"title":"London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019 - Supriya Le Le","filename":"Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","filesize":334484,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-8\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-8","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":74310,"date":"2019-02-20 15:57:34","modified":"2019-02-20 16:04:09","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1280,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","medium-width":1280,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","medium_large-width":1280,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","large-width":1280,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","1536x1536-width":1024,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","2048x2048-width":1280,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0008.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1280,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"4","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

The presentation-catwalk, complete with a hospital-inspired set, constructed from inky-brown rubber ward curtains backlit by surgical examination lighting, designed by Alice Kirkpatrick, and pulse-driven soundtrack by upcoming ambient producer Sky-H1, further elevated this collection far higher than Lele\u2019s previous shows. Of particular note was tailoring cut closer to the female form, replacing a looser masculine silhouette, inspired by her grandfather\u2019s safari hunting jacket, as seen at her AW18 show with talent incubator Fashion East.<\/span><\/p>\n

Having mastered the sensual drapery of the sari, and high-tech language of sportswear in previous collections, Lele has grown immensely as a designer. She is developing a set of visual codes for her brand that she can confidently play with: unique wide-necked bra tops inspired by sari blouses were layered over intricate metallic pieces gleaming like armour, and coats displaying bright orange mohair panels.<\/span><\/p>\n

While division over Brexit dominates mainstream UK headlines, within Lele\u2019s work there is less tension between West and East than ever before. The clash between futuristic and heritage references is over, replaced with garments that feel like a complete wardrobe for a woman fully living in the present. The former Midlands punk-goth, appears to have let go of judgement and fear, embracing a new considered attitude that will place her on a fast-track to making her mark internationally.<\/span><\/p>\n

See the rest of Lele’s AW19 collection below:<\/em><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"gallery","gallery":[{"ID":74340,"id":74340,"title":"London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019 - Supriya Le Le","filename":"Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","filesize":304739,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-9\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le-9","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":74310,"date":"2019-02-20 15:57:38","modified":"2019-02-20 16:04:24","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1280,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","medium-width":1280,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","medium_large-width":1280,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","large-width":1280,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","1536x1536-width":1024,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","2048x2048-width":1280,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0009.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1280,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":74346,"id":74346,"title":"London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019 - 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Supriya Le Le","filename":"Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","filesize":282594,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"london-fashion-week-spring-summer-2019-supriya-le-le","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":74310,"date":"2019-02-20 15:56:41","modified":"2019-02-20 16:05:03","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1280,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","medium-width":1280,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","medium_large-width":1280,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","large-width":1280,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","1536x1536-width":1024,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","2048x2048-width":1280,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/Supriya_LeLe_AW19-0001.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1280,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"height":"100","images_to_show":"1","caption":"Images courtesy of Supriya Lele. Copyright Chris Yates. "}}]},"yoast_head":"\nLondon designer Supriya Lele on subverting medical scrubs into powerfully feminine fetish wear London designer Supriya Lele on subverting medical scrubs into powerfully feminine fetish wear<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"London designer Supriya Lele on subverting medical scrubs into powerfully feminine fetish wear London designer Supriya Lele on subverting medical scrubs into powerfully feminine fetish wear\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/supriya-lele\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-02-20T15:30:50+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2019-02-20T16:46:22+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Maksymilian Fus-Mickiewicz\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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