{"id":79017,"date":"2019-08-20T15:21:17","date_gmt":"2019-08-20T15:21:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=79017"},"modified":"2019-08-22T14:09:23","modified_gmt":"2019-08-22T14:09:23","slug":"stefano-pilati-bras-menswear","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/stefano-pilati-bras-menswear\/","title":{"rendered":"Random Identities\u2019 Stefano Pilati on the subversive power of bras in menswear"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":79019,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[8,81,10172],"tags":[13702,13703,10039,13704,11387,11386,3115],"class_list":["post-79017","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-berlin","category-fashion","category-film","tag-bra","tag-bra-tops","tag-gender-fluid","tag-gender-norms","tag-random-identities","tag-stefano-pilati","tag-yves-saint-laurent"],"acf":{"main_category":81,"legacy":false,"exclude_from_ads":[],"hero_title":"","subtitle":"The 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We\u2019re all used to seeing a woman in menswear\u2014from relaxed boyfriend fit jeans to elegant suiting \u00e0 la Charlotte Rampling in Yves Saint Laurent\u2014it\u2019s a recurring trope for even the most conservative feminine wardrobes. But womenswear, especially women\u2019s undergarments, doesn\u2019t find its way across the gender divide as casually. According to Stefano Pilati<\/a>, the former YSL creative director who founded the Berlin label Random Identities<\/a> in 2018: this isn\u2019t a coincidence.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere are certain forces that are in serious play within our culture,\u201d the Italian designer tells SLEEK. \u201cPatriarchy being one of the most oppressive. Patriarchy teaches men that their masculinity must be proven at every turn. Women in menswear aren\u2019t that great of a risk to the patriarchy, the same can’t be said for the inverse.\u201d<\/p>\n

Pilati\u2019s label isn\u2019t in the business of pleasing the patriarchy, having built a cult following by disregarding gendered prescriptions of clothing. While many labels appeal to a more fluid generation by offering unisex collections, Random Identities doesn\u2019t shy away from taking contemporary womenswear concepts and tailoring them to look great on men. The 3.5-inch-heeled worker boot has been a staple of the brand since its launch and skirted looks have also been prominently featured. Still, some of the most striking pieces are renditions of the bra.<\/p>\n

Ranging from button-down shirts printed with lace balconettes, colourful string bikini tops and simple black back closures, to silver-chained chest covers, the pieces are not trying to imitate women\u2019s clothing. Far from drag, they exude a type of confrontational confidence reminiscent of the glam rock movement, or the New Romantics.<\/p>\n

We asked Pilati how he got hooked on the idea and why underwear is so powerful:<\/em><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":79045,"id":79045,"title":"190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033","filename":"190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","filesize":575832,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/stefano-pilati-bras-menswear\/190504_randomidentities_lookbookrelease04_m14_033\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"190504_randomidentities_lookbookrelease04_m14_033","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":79017,"date":"2019-08-20 15:01:38","modified":"2019-08-20 15:02:14","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1280,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","medium-width":1280,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","medium_large-width":1280,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","large-width":1280,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","1536x1536-width":1024,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","2048x2048-width":1280,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/190504_RANDOMIDENTITIES_LOOKBOOKRELEASE04_m14_033-e1566313326981.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1280,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":79046,"id":79046,"title":"Andres Back","filename":"Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","filesize":554874,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/stefano-pilati-bras-menswear\/andres-back\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"andres-back","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":79017,"date":"2019-08-20 15:02:06","modified":"2019-08-20 15:13:36","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1357,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","thumbnail-width":68,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","medium-width":1357,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","medium_large-width":1357,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","large-width":1357,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","1536x1536-width":1086,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","2048x2048-width":1357,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Andres-Back-e1566313343599.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1357,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"4","caption":"Courtesy of RIstudioberlin"}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

What originally inspired you to incorporate the bra-print into the collection?<\/p>\n

I like to wear the button-down shirts that my friend passed on to me. I was thinking about how I could take something that is an ultimate classic and subvert in such a way that it retains its identity while opening a conversation that speaks to the zeitgeist.<\/p>\n

What does the bra signify to you and how does using it in a menswear context \u2013 where it presumably has no gravity defying or modesty function \u2013 change its meaning?<\/p>\n

Placing it on an article of menswear is a way of reversing and contradicting its systemic values and principles. In essence, it’s an attempt to transform the established social order\u00a0and its structures of\u00a0power,\u00a0authority,\u00a0hierarchy, and\u00a0social norms.<\/p>\n

You differentiate between the types of designs you use, from the undone bikini to romantic lacy models and minimalistic back closures. Is there a reason you chose to explore this variety, rather than stick to a single print?<\/p>\n

By choosing different designs, it was my hope to express the multiplicity of the bra wearing experience\u2014to invoke different occasions, different environments and also different individuals. I don’t wear a bra myself, but I certainly can’t imagine that it is a one-style-fits-all experience.<\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":79047,"id":79047,"title":"Three Bra Shirts","filename":"Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","filesize":263256,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/stefano-pilati-bras-menswear\/three-bra-shirts\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"three-bra-shirts","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":79017,"date":"2019-08-20 15:04:28","modified":"2019-08-20 15:04:28","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1500,"height":728,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","thumbnail-width":128,"thumbnail-height":62,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","medium-width":1500,"medium-height":728,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","medium_large-width":1500,"medium_large-height":728,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","large-width":1500,"large-height":728,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","1536x1536-width":1500,"1536x1536-height":728,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","2048x2048-width":1500,"2048x2048-height":728,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":18,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":9,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Three-Bra-Shirts-e1566313483202.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1500,"wpvr_mobile-height":728}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"6","caption":"Courtesy of RIstudioberlin"}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

As one of the most liberal cities, Berlin has a strong culture of disregarding traditions of gendered clothing. How does this culture shape your work?<\/p>\n

As a designer, it’s not possible for me not to reflect my surroundings. I live in Berlin at the moment so that is my primary influence.<\/p>\n

Why do you think that undergarments have become such a political subject in recent years?<\/p>\n

If we think of undergarments as foundation garments, we can view them as the\u00a0basis upon which something stands or is supported. When we think of tackling topics like gender norms, getting to the root, or better said, the foundation, is necessary for long-lasting structural and institutional change.<\/p>\n

Although it was not part of the original release, the bra-print shirts, as well as chain bras have become recurring themes, are there next steps for its evolution?<\/p>\n

Fashion is not art and it is not politics, but I would like to think that it’s a medium that can contribute to the conversation of contemporary culture. Moving forward, I can imagine that there will be complimentary items to the bra that push boundaries and question norms.<\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":79048,"id":79048,"title":"Julia Color","filename":"Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","filesize":567795,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/stefano-pilati-bras-menswear\/julia-color\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"julia-color","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":79017,"date":"2019-08-20 15:06:15","modified":"2019-08-20 15:06:15","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1357,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","thumbnail-width":68,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","medium-width":1357,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","medium_large-width":1357,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","large-width":1357,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","1536x1536-width":1086,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","2048x2048-width":1357,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/08\/Julia-Color-e1566313784164.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1357,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"4","caption":"Courtesy of RIstudioberlin"}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

The Random Identities collection is available globally through SSENSE<\/a> and Dover Street Market<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n"}]},"yoast_head":"\nRandom Identities\u2019 Stefano Pilati on the subversive power of bras in menswear Random Identities\u2019 Stefano Pilati on the subversive power of bras in menswear<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/stefano-pilati-bras-menswear\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Random Identities\u2019 Stefano Pilati on the subversive power of bras in menswear Random Identities\u2019 Stefano Pilati on the subversive power of bras in menswear\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/stefano-pilati-bras-menswear\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-08-20T15:21:17+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2019-08-22T14:09:23+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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