{"id":82562,"date":"2020-01-15T09:21:15","date_gmt":"2020-01-15T09:21:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/?p=82562"},"modified":"2020-01-15T16:17:17","modified_gmt":"2020-01-15T16:17:17","slug":"looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/","title":{"rendered":"Looking beyond the \u201ctrend\u201d of African fashion at Berlin Fashion 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presented a vibrant roster of new fashion talent from South Africa, but beyond the innovative and colourful looks, there were some hard-learned lessons in sustainability ","hero":{"video":false,"image":false,"header_color":"black","overlay_color":"","overlay_text_color":"black"},"teasers":{"video":false,"image":{"ID":82571,"id":82571,"title":"Lara Ohl_Backstage-17","filename":"Lara-Ohl_Backstage-17.jpg","filesize":474776,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-17.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/lara-ohl_backstage-17\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"lara-ohl_backstage-17","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":82562,"date":"2020-01-14 16:51:19","modified":"2020-01-14 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photography by Lara Ohl backstage at the group AW20 show \"Mercedes-Benz presents Fashion talents from South Africa\""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

There has been a large spotlight on Africa\u2019s fashion scene as of late, with international editors descending upon Lagos Fashion Week and Thebe Magugu, who hails from Johannesburg,\u00a0 becoming the first African designer to take home the most prestigious young designer award, the LVMH prize, in 2019. There have always been diverse design scenes across the continent, but through the strength of online communities, African designers are finding global reach with designs that feel refreshing to audiences fatigued by the traditions of the fashion capitals of New York, London, Paris and Milan. But beyond bringing new style perspectives, the production and industry realities of creating showstopping looks have forced many designers to build businesses that are by default sustainable.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cFabric is a valuable resource for us, while in Europe it is just a commodity you use to make clothes,\u201d <\/span>Clive Rundel<\/span><\/a>, who has been running his label out of Johannesburg for more than three decades, tells SLEEK. \u201cAlmost every little piece of fabric I buy goes somewhere. We sit with very little waste.\u201d Rundle, <\/span>Rich Mnisi<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>Floyd Avenue<\/span><\/a> and <\/span>Viviers<\/span><\/a> are four South African designers invited by <\/span>Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin<\/span><\/a> to show their collections in the German capital this week. Their aesthetics and years in the industry vary, but the group is connected by inconsistent resources of their country and the inventiveness they have had to cultivate to manage them.<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":82579,"id":82579,"title":"Lara Ohl_Backstage-31","filename":"Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","filesize":338018,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/lara-ohl_backstage-31\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"lara-ohl_backstage-31","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":82562,"date":"2020-01-14 16:54:53","modified":"2020-01-14 16:54:53","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1281,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","medium-width":1281,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","medium_large-width":1281,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","large-width":1281,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","1536x1536-width":1025,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","2048x2048-width":1281,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-31.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1281,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":82577,"id":82577,"title":"Lara Ohl_Backstage-25","filename":"Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","filesize":352109,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/lara-ohl_backstage-25\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"lara-ohl_backstage-25","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":82562,"date":"2020-01-14 16:53:52","modified":"2020-01-14 16:53:52","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1281,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","medium-width":1281,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","medium_large-width":1281,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","large-width":1281,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","1536x1536-width":1025,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","2048x2048-width":1281,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-25.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1281,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"4","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

The South African fabric industry has taken big hits from foreign dumping. China\u2019s textile makers have flooded markets with excess stock, which is sold at low prices and has put pressure on local production, driving many operations out of business. Still, because the imports are excess and not actually fabrics that the designers are ordering, it makes it difficult for designers to maintain consistency. \u201cWe don\u2019t get a premier market where you go and order your fabric years ahead of schedule because now in two years orange is going to be big so you make sure you\u2019ve got orange within your collection,\u201d says Avenue tells SLEEK. \u201cIf you make an orange jacket, it’s because that is what was there.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

While some, like Rich Mnisi, have scoured the imports to see what he can reliably depend on to create their colourful prints, others, like menswear designer Floyd Avenue, make the precarious nature of the local market part of their brand ethos. \u201cThe zippers and buttons are always different in my clothing, because I source them from stores that have gone out of business or vintage,\u201d Avenue says.<\/span><\/p>\n

Aside from the need to be creative when it comes to materials, the South African designers also have to be careful about their power usage. The country is currently experiencing one of its worst-ever energy crises, which has resulted in regular mandatory scheduled power outages that dictate when work can be done. \u201cYou can be without power for up to 24-hours,\u201d Rundle says. \u201cIt is something the entire country\u2019s economy has to deal with. The political arena definitely influences my collections.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"images","gallery":[{"ID":82575,"id":82575,"title":"Lara Ohl_Backstage-21","filename":"Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","filesize":450930,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/lara-ohl_backstage-21\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"lara-ohl_backstage-21","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":82562,"date":"2020-01-14 16:53:02","modified":"2020-01-14 16:53:02","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1281,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","medium-width":1281,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","medium_large-width":1281,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","large-width":1281,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","1536x1536-width":1025,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","2048x2048-width":1281,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-21.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1281,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}},{"ID":82576,"id":82576,"title":"Lara Ohl_Backstage-23","filename":"Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","filesize":502797,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/lara-ohl_backstage-23\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"lara-ohl_backstage-23","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":82562,"date":"2020-01-14 16:53:28","modified":"2020-01-14 16:53:28","menu_order":0,"mime_type":"image\/jpeg","type":"image","subtype":"jpeg","icon":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-includes\/images\/media\/default.png","width":1281,"height":1920,"sizes":{"thumbnail":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","thumbnail-width":64,"thumbnail-height":96,"medium":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","medium-width":1281,"medium-height":1920,"medium_large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","medium_large-width":1281,"medium_large-height":1920,"large":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","large-width":1281,"large-height":1920,"1536x1536":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","1536x1536-width":1025,"1536x1536-height":1536,"2048x2048":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","2048x2048-width":1281,"2048x2048-height":1920,"trp-custom-language-flag":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","trp-custom-language-flag-width":8,"trp-custom-language-flag-height":12,"wpvr_mobile":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-23.jpg","wpvr_mobile-width":1281,"wpvr_mobile-height":1920}}],"settings":{"fit_width":"4","caption":""}},{"acf_fc_layout":"text_area","text_area":"

Despite the hurdles of making clothes, the Johannesburg-based designers know that their South African and international customers can always afford to shop abroad, which means that they not only have to deliver garments that meet a global luxury standard, they also have to provide levels of service reminiscent of early 20<\/span>th<\/span> century fashion brands\u2014like when Chanel and Dior first started out in the early and mid century\u2014which allowed clients to slightly alter cuts of fabrications of pieces in-store. \u201cNobody else does the things that we do to please a client,\u201d Lezanne Viviers says. \u201cBut the people that come into our stores also appreciate and expect a certain level of luxury.\u201d<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Despite the international competition, the designers see each other more as colleagues than fierce rivals. \u201cIt\u2019s not like the \u201880s where people were competing against each other,\u201d Viviers explains. \u201cWe are all different enough that I don\u2019t mind going over to Clive, for example, and asking him how he manages something.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

As the global fashion scrambles to fix its image of being one of the world\u2019s top polluters, it may be helpful to look at the way brands make do in places where they are forced to use less\u2014because in spite of the extra steps, it still seems to be possible to grab the world’s attention. <\/span><\/p>\n"},{"acf_fc_layout":"gallery","gallery":[{"ID":82568,"id":82568,"title":"Lara Ohl_Backstage-12","filename":"Lara-Ohl_Backstage-12.jpg","filesize":729519,"url":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/Lara-Ohl_Backstage-12.jpg","link":"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/lara-ohl_backstage-12\/","alt":"","author":"1","description":"","caption":"","name":"lara-ohl_backstage-12","status":"inherit","uploaded_to":82562,"date":"2020-01-14 16:50:39","modified":"2020-01-14 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All photography by Lara Ohl<\/a>.<\/p>\n"}]},"yoast_head":"\nLooking beyond the \u201ctrend\u201d of African fashion at Berlin Fashion Week Looking beyond the \u201ctrend\u201d of African fashion at Berlin Fashion Week<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"de_DE\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Looking beyond the \u201ctrend\u201d of African fashion at Berlin Fashion Week Looking beyond the \u201ctrend\u201d of African fashion at Berlin Fashion Week\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/de\/article\/looking-beyond-the-trend-of-african-fashion-at-berlin-fashion-week\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Sleek Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sleekmag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2020-01-15T09:21:15+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2020-01-15T16:17:17+00:00\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@sleekmag\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Verfasst von\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"sleek\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.sleek-mag.com\/\",\"name\":\"Sleek Magazine\",\"description\":\"Sleek is Germany\u2019s leading independent media house\/brand for creativity and innovation located in Berlin the creative capital of the world. 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