11 young brands you need to know from Seoul Fashion Week

As big name designers continue to move away from showing at major fashion weeks, increasingly its the smaller affairs worldwide that are becoming the ones to watch. This past week saw Seoul Fashion Week take place, so we sent photographer Renata Kats backstage for a slice of the action. Photographing everyone from street style upstarts 51 Percent and Dozoh, to frothy feminine romance at Cahiers and ‘80s-inspired rainbow clubwear at Graphiste Man.G, there was something for everyone. Below, are the emerging brands you need to know. 

Youser

For Youser’s SS20 show, designer Lee Mu-Yul combined Western styles from the 18th century with futuristic details, all cast in a ultra-violet neon-lit runway. Our favourite was almost certainly the cat-printed bomber. 

Dozoh

If you’re looking for the latest in streetwear, look no further than Korean brand, Dozoh, who presented loose hoods layered with prints—plaid, pinstripes and tie-dye—paired with luminous accents of colour for SS20.

Graphiste Man.G

Meanwhile, for zany, colourful wardrobe inspiration Graphiste Man.G, whose playful designs are instantly recognisable on account of their hand-painted motifs, is the brand you need to know. Paired with incredible make-up and ‘80s style mullets, clubwear just got a whole lot more fun.

51 Percent

Another favourite in the realm of Korean streetwear, is the expertly-made and reasonably-priced 51 Percent, who presented the sort of youthful, clean-lined sportswear that is likely to be spotted on millennials from Seoul to Berlin, and everywhere in between.

UL:KIN

Upcycling is almost certainly the future of fashion, and Korean brand UL.KIN are ones to watch. Their hybrid, deconstructive approach lends itself to fresh, wearable garments tinged with street style references and frequently elegant flourishes.

Cahiers

In her spring SS20 offering, Cahier’s Kim Ah-young showcased a gorgeous feminine collection, with frothy paisleys, satins and panels of lace. Accessories were princess-like, rendered in gold and offset by the romantic pastel palette. 

Moon J

For something sophisticated, Moon J is an elegant womenswear label founded by Jinhee Moon in 2015. For SS20, Moon presented a characteristically feminine collection in cool yellows and blues, complete with on-trend matchy-matchy tailoring, double denim and breezy trench coats.

Munn

For SS20, Munn’s artistic director Han Hyun-Min reimagined traditional Korean clothing items, such as straw hats, as avant-garde and maximalist. Although known for menswear, Munn presented this season’s collection on female models in high heels, adapting to the move towards genderless fashion.

Studio Seong

While florals for spring may not be ground-breaking, Lee Sung-Hoon’s Studio Seong managed to make the motif seem fun and fresh for SS20. Giant pink blossoms were fixed to slip dresses and denims, alongside glamorous sheer ensembles and suiting.

Bourie

Bourie’s creative director Jo Eun-Hye interpreted the concept of ‘cognitive dissonance’ in this collection as jarring prints, voluminous silhouettes, back-combed fringes and dark, moody shades interrupted by bolts of bright yellow. 

The Stolen Garment

Although The Stolen Garment classifies itself as a “conceptual menswear” brand, its delightful DIY pieces are playfully unisex. For SS20, CSM grad Jungwoo Park presented loose trousers with unfinished hemlines layered with tunics and worn with jaunty bucket hats and frivolous headpieces.

All photography by Renata Kats.