Carpetbaggers. Photography by Daan Dam.
One of upcycling’s greatest icons is Scarlett O’Hara, who famously rips the curtains from the wall in Gone With the Wind (1939) in order to make a luxurious velvet dress when resources were scarce in the South after the American Civil War. For his Hyéres Festival-winning collection, Christoph Rumpf also took the drapes, rugs, chandeliers and old jacquard to create looks that were equal parts, glamorous and modern – but the Viennese designer is making a statement about sustainability, and not trying to fake wealth. As an augmented version of the line featuring Persian carpet bags and prismatic strands of Chrystal make their way down the Berlin catwalk, it isn’t difficult to tell why the collection won the French fashion prize.
Rumpf is known for finding his materials at flea market stalls across France and Vienna. While his main goal is to try to cut down on virgin fabric production, he has also found a treasure trove of finery abandoned by the grand dames and dandies of the 20th century. There is something subversive about taking objects, which are usually seen in a context of “look, but don’t touch,” ripping them apart and creating something new. While the Austrian-based designer’s looks play with dated splendour, the sculptural creations take on a sense of humour that makes them look more approachable than they were in their original forms.
Check out Daan Dam’s behind the scenes shots from the Berlin Fashion Week show:
Backstage at Christoph Rumpf's 2019 show at Berlin Fashion Week. Photography by Daan Dam.