Erik Frenken
When trailblazing fails, it is easy to follow: trends are an easy fallback. Yet, while there is comfort in the familiar, how can an art progress without the risk of innovation? Designer Erik Frenken of the Dutch label Avelon pushes the limits of the familiar to create unorthodox and inventive answers to the status quo of luxury. Embracing what he has branded as “beautiful different”, Frenken merges the rawness of the streets with the luxury he was exposed to previously while working for Alberta Ferretti and Viktor&Rolf. The result is an innovative Summer/Spring 2015 collection that debuted at Paris Fashion Week, and we got a chance to speak to Frenken about what ground was broken for Avelon’s latest collection.
Avelon believes in beautiful different, and with the ever-changing landscape of materials and prints in fashion, how does the use of prints and materials in the new Avelon collection reflect this?
In regard to the use of fabrics and prints, beautiful different stands for the unexpected use of materials, or the innovative combinations of things. In the SS15 collection we used raffia that is coated on the inside, making it really easy to wear. Besides the use of this new fabric, we also use new printing and embossing techniques on our leather and sweats.
What new sources of inspiration have been synthesised into Avelon’s latest collection?
The starting point of this collection was the my own personal search for who I am as a designer and for the Avelon signature. I found parallels in the personal journey and motivations of another artist: photographer Jimmy Nelson. He recently released a book entitled “Before They Pass Away”. This book portrays tribes from all over the world and their traditional clothing. Jimmy’s personal journey and his stunning images were the main sources of inspiration for this collection.
AVELON SS15
You have said before that Avelon aims to merge the rawness of the streets with luxury branding—the duct tape cocktail dress. How has Dutch streetstyle affected the shape of Avelon as a label?
Dutch street style is a mixture of everything, especially here in Amsterdam where multicultural tourists and locals mix seamlessly. It’s this mixture of unexpectedness that inspires me.
How does your emphasis on making wearable clothing affect your process and influence your designs?
I have never been able to design just one single piece of clothing. When I’m designing, I always design a full look. This then influences the next one because, for instance, I think that the coat I just did would also go well with a skirt instead of pants. To me, it’s also important that every fabric that we choose works for that which we want to use it. This sometimes means that we cancel prototypes because the fabric doesn’t live up to what we thought it could be used for.
You are known for your innovative use of techniques at Avelon—stonewashing silk, for example, for a more comfortable and inviting look. Where would you say your affinity to experimentation comes from?
When I was at the Academy in The Hague, textiles was one of the most interesting courses to me. I have always found it intriguing how things are made and how simple changes or combinations can create beautiful new things.
What other innovations can we expect from the SS 2015 collection?
Besides the innovation in fabrics such as raffia and embossed leather, we spent a lot of time on the development of our first footwear collection. Innovation within our footwear can be found, for instance, in the use of copper metal heel and toe caps we developed with the factory.