Backstage at Martine Rose SS20 via @garygillhair
We love London Fashion Week because it is young and unashamed about being over-the-top. The Spring/Summer 2020 men’s collections took a sharp turn away from trying-not-to-try casual and so did the beauty looks. Some of the standouts were proven maximalists, while new faces also managed to turn up the volume. From a classic Goth revival to new-age spiritual looks, we roundup of the most extra looks from the summer runways:
Martine Rose
Martine Rose Fall Winter 2020. London Fashion Week Men. Copyright Catwalking.com
“Probably the best designer in the world,” as her website claims, Martine Rose took a Western approach to the SS20 runway of her eponymous label. Taking a page from the ladies of country, the models went down the catwalk — set atop the Astroturf roof garden of an office building — in fringe and big hair. While I don’t think anyone would say that the edges of the wigs were “snatched,” the haphazard application of the hair give the collection a whimsical rockabilly vibe.
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY SS20. ©Chris Yates
Charles Jeffrey has never really done low-maintenance looks, favouring instead wild and romantic silhouettes, paired with bold styling choices. To accompany his latest runway of apparel in electric shades of aqua, pink and indigo, Jeffrey pulled out all of the stops, including body paint, hair masks and fabric facial appliques. At times when the models did don more conventional makeup like eyeshadow and lipstick, it was in bold shades of turquoise and red, resembling an Andy Warhol screen print.
1×1 Studios
1x1 Studio SS20. Courtesy of the label
Up-and-coming brand 1×1 Studio, founded by Yi-Ling Kuo in 2017, took cues from the Instagram filters; creating IRL science-fiction looks with iridescent masks, flowers floating from hoods and colourfully painted demarcations of hairlines. The futuristic styling played off of the collection’s innocent knits as if speaking directly to Gen Z.
Xander Zhou
Xander Zhou SS20. Courtesy of the label
Chinese designer Xander Zhou opted for a virtual runway to present his SS20 collection, which focused heavily on spirituality. While skirted looks featured prominently in his runway, so did sculptural hair and computer generated body modifications, such as minerals imbedded onto the skin. Sleek topknots took centre stage, while hair halos also made an appearance.
John Lawrence Sullivan
John Lawrence Sullivan SS20. Courtesy of the label
Arashi Yanagawa’s John Lawrence Sullivan brand, named after the 20th century American heavyweight boxing champion, has always had a hard edge. For SS20, the collection landed somewhere between New Romantic and Goth, relying heavily on chains, black mesh and oversized suiting jackets. For the most part, the hair was wild and moody, with voluminous manes and greasy statement bangs that eclipsed darkly rimmed eyes.