A glitzy show, a signature jacket, and a 92-year history, not to mention the strategic staff movements at the top. Is the heritage biker label Belstaff getting ready to “Do a Burberry”?
The SS17 presentation at London Fashion Week on Sunday, felt more like a night out at an exclusive members club than a fashion show and has left the style set intrigued: why did a brand that is known more for its motorbike connection, than it’s high-fashion status feel like the event of the week?
The answer lies in strategic movements at the top. Back in June, Business of Fashion revealed that the current head of womenswear Delphine Ninous had been appointed as the brand’s Creative Director, in charge of both the men’s and women’s collections. The Parisian designer who has worked her way up the company after joining in 2014, and had previously worked as Design Director at Paul & Joe is definitely making her mark. Belstaff’s Chief Executive Gavin Haig told BoF “Appointing Delphine is within our strategy to accelerate and to have a very singular pair of eyes across all of the collection development,”. This was evident in the first presentation – following in the steps of Gucci, where both men’s and women’s wear is shown together, alongside a second collaboration with A-lister, Liv Tyler – who was also in attendance, bringing a rare touch of A-list to London Fashion Week.
Ninious’ signature French-girl cool was to be found in abundance. Soft leather bikers that zipped off at the waist to adapt over evening dresses – a genius design flourish that only a true leather-jacket-lover would appreciate – were styled with workwear plaid and Americana star-motifs.
Like Burberry’s trench, the biker jacket is the core of Belstaff’s lines and the trustworthy heritage gives the label prestige – the brand boasts true style icons, aviatrix, Amelia Earhart and WW11’s Gracie Fields as early wearers. “We have always attracted and dressed daring and independent characters,” says Ninious. Citing the historical biker-chicks the Van Burens as the inspiration for this collection. Sisters Augusta and Adeline Van Buren were women’s rights campaigners in the early 20th century who rode 5,500-miles on motorbikes across the USA to protest for women to be able to serve in the US armed forces as dispatch riders, an act that ultimately paved way for the vote.
A cinematic view of this story was recreated at the presentation, with the season’s hottest models posing on motorbikes in front of desert planes.
From pioneers of women’s liberation, an A-list actress to the new Creative Director, this is a brand that is celebrating, designed for, and steered by strong women. We are excited to see – as Delphine Ninous gets into her stride – what next season will bring at London’s most promising heritage label.
Photography by Catherine Edwardina