The reputation for Central Saint Martin’s design school comes assured, thanks in no small part to the notable alumni who have stalked the hallowed halls of 1 Granary Square. Eager to spot the next fresh talent headed for stardom, fashion editors are practically tripping over themselves whenever CSM’s MA show rolls around. The well-informed, however, know that we shouldn’t let the Masters students outshine the BA graduating class. After all, CSM’s biggest names — John Galliano, Phoebe Philo and Alexander McQueen, to name but a few — are graduates of BA, not MA, programmes.
Accordingly, instead of chronicling the Central Saint Martin’s master’s thesis show, we got backstage access at the internal BA student thesis show. Though the designers were appropriately stressed, we remained languid watching models shimmy into Camper shoes reconceptualised as dinosaur claws (by @firpal) and we clomped around asking the designers what their collections were about and taking names when a garment struck our fancy.
It soon became obvious that both CSM students and tutors aren’t pointlessly dogged by tradition, though it’s still considered chic to maintain an amicable respect for technical prowess. The most fascinating contemporary designers are contemplating their own mortality, à la @harrie.bradshaw’s very own funeral on the runway, and @comic_ans’ mockery of the human desire to survive the elements—her collection is made from found outdoor-wear and gear. Here’s what the talent had to say about their work on the big day. And if you see something inspiring, don’t fret—the show is on display from 20th- 24th June at Central Saint Martins.
Matilda Söderberg
“I’m the worst procrastinator. Everything is kind of last minute but that’s how I’ve been working and I’m trying to fight it but now I’m trying to just go with it. I am a last minute maker!”
Jie Wu
“I didn’t put too much online yet.”
Pictured here is one of their models.
Lisa Jiang
“I’m gonna miss CSM in that we have so much collaboration with other departments. I’ve worked with 3D printers this year and everyone’s really friendly and welcoming in the other facilities even though you don’t technically belong there. [recently] I’ve been looking into fluid dynamics and false memory and fluid dynamic paintings and kinetic sculptures.”
Andrea Sisó
“My collection is about immigration. I’ve used my Spanish heritage as the visual reference point. The folk dress from Aragon. Robert Capa who did pictures of people fleeing the Spanish Civil War. Alexander Calder’s journey mimics mine as I’m from Miami.”
Fabio Frasca
“My collection is about Italy in the ’70s, [a] mixture of Arte Povera and a sense of domesticity.”
Firpal Jawanda
“My hopes and dreams for the future are moving to LA and lying on the beach. The collection (@solaceceremony) is about solace.”
Pictured here are their models.
Annie Mackinnon
“It’s jokey outdoors wear and it’s a comment on green capitalism and buying outdoorswear to feel like you’re healthy. There’s a tree hugger [and] sexy solar panels. It’s all made out of old broken equipment from outdoor centres and second-hand tents.
Tamara Frances Djandash
“I’ve enjoyed helping. It’s different seeing works that’s not yours. Being as helpful as possible and learning new techniques. You can give more ideas and it’s less precious.
Harry Freegard
“The collection is about me being dead And having this done with! There’s biscuits in my urn! It’s also about me being Princess Diana. I’m executing everything I wanted to do this whole time.”
Sonny Charlton
“It’s been really good. I’ve never done a catwalk before. I like what I’m wearing. I was expecting it to be uncomfortable but it wasn’t.
Eva Neuburger
“I’m a second year helping out. You get pretty involved and I don’t think we could do it without the help of the second years. I chose Manon Reichenbach, she’s got a very good way of working and not too fashion and she’s pushing quite a lot of boundaries.
Alisa Ruzavina
“It’s more about positive social revolution and change. There’s “animal rights”, “compassion”, “mental health”, “information overload”, “climate change” and “optimism/hope.” We have to come from celebrating the positive. My models have all body sizes and that’s also part of it.”
Victoria Chi
“I’ve done the show before. It’s quite interesting because everyone is in a rush and focused and it’s just a few minutes to showcase what they’ve got but it’s good!”
Masha Popova
“It’s badly fitting clothes and clothes that are stretched. I’m from the Ukraine and so people had no money so they wore clothes from their sisters and stuff and so we wore like stretched elbows.”
Kitoko Matumona
“I was looking at being lost in London but the Angolan version of Amazon, we have ladies from street to street and it can be anything from fashion to fish. If you hear the name of the thing you need you just go, you don’t buy online. Here in London. I’m lost. everything looks the same, and I was like where am I?? The shapes are about things I found in London, women with baskets selling their stuff. It’s the transition between Angola and here”
Emilia Lunney
“Modelling for Hannah Dang. I’ve done the White Show. I’m wearing a painted leather suit. I’ve seen some cool shoes. I’m a student at LCF and do underwear/ contour”
Louis Gabriel
“I’ve done this show maybe two years. I’m modelling for Patrick. It’s about a climbing family it’s mixed in with big shapes. Fashion Communication at CSM.”
India Safdie
“ I’m a first year assisting.”