Courtesy of Stand and J. Lindeberg.
Thanks to the increased interest in Scandinavian style and living in recent years, Copenhagen Fashion Week is quickly emerging as one the most talked about fashion weeks on the European continent. This year’s AW19 edition didn’t disappoint, with bright colour pops, sustainability and utility wear as hot topics. Despite standout shows from Stand and J. Lindeberg, proceedings were somewhat dampened by Copenhagen’s biggest brand Ganni’s ill-advised use of imagery of women in developing countries. While Ganni left us disappointed, there was still plenty to discuss as the future of CFW looks blindingly bright.
Colourful outerwear at Stand
Courtesy of Stand.
Founded by Nellie Kamras in 2014, Stand is still a relatively young Danish brand, yet in the last several years has become a staple in many a Scandinavian wardrobe. With a family background in leather production, Kamras has an innate sense for incorporating suede, fur, wool, and faux fur into her designs. This season, oversized bags, long scarves, and electric animal prints were supported by aqua blue and orange-red accents on the collars and sleeves of leather garments. Divine shades of lavender transformed faux fur and leather coats into dream creations that swept down the runway. Perfect outerwear for a modern-day Margot Tenenbaum.
Problematic visuals at Ganni
Courtesy of Ganni.
At Ganni — the region’s best-known brand — innovative cuts and flamboyant prints continued to speak volumes. Life on earth was the theme this season, with a conscious drive towards sustainability. However, Ganni’s take on chic dresses, short hemlines and wrap dresses were overshadowed this season by a questionable backdrop of reportage images by award winning photojournalist, Ami Vitale, set against the legendary voice of David Attenborough, describing animal mating rituals. The use of these images, primarily of underprivileged women in developing countries, has since been widely condemned as exploitative. At a time when women in developing countries are still affected by low wages and substandard working conditions in factories that produce clothing for western brands it’s highly problematic to use their image in fashion setting like this. Ganni appears to have used these marginalised women as a token marketing tool instead of providing them with a platform to promote their cause.
Industrial details at Helliot Emil
Helliot Emil, a unisex brand created by brothers Julius and Victor Juul, featured monochromatic tones with high attention to detail. Industrial style buckles and carabiners were used for fastenings throughout their AW19 collection with waterproof and breathable fabrics reinforcing their utilitarian aesthetic. In terms of innovative design, they are the brand to watch. Named after their grandfather, the Copenhagen brand showcased their first collection in Milan during SS17 before moving back to Denmark as their base. Their custom trimmings are Japanese manufactured while final garment production takes place in Italy, France and Portugal.
New streetwear at J. Lindeberg
Courtesy of J. Lindeberg.
Since the appointment of Jens Werner as Creative Director, J. Lindeberg has gone through an evolution. Previous positions at Adidas Y3 in Europe and Tory Burch Sport in the US have enabled Werner to hit the ground running. According to the designer, the latest collection was cultivated by blending the brand’s signature look with his own identity, “In terms of silhouettes, I tried to keep the idea of sharp pieces since we have tailoring in the brand DNA, but evolve it even further with the blend of something worn out. The whole idea of knitwear for me is it adds a lot of character to a show. Alongside technical fabrics, it brings it to a more grounded personal level”. On showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Werner was positive, “Doing fashion shows, in general, is important because you have a platform where you communicate your brand to a certain audience. We show here in Copenhagen and not Stockholm where the brand is from because it has a younger and more international platform, the look fits more into the city”.
Elegant menswear at Martin Asbjørn
Martin Asbjørn was the standout menswear designer of the week. Free- flowing contemporary silhouettes revealed his elegant simplicity, where faux crocodile leather, bucket hats, and quarter-zips highlighted his flair for eye-catching details. Establishing the brand in 2014 after graduating with a degree in tailoring, his take on modern suiting alongside relaxed sportswear makes for a cleverly cool aesthetic.