via @revolvingstyle (Instagram)
Moschino is a house that has always had the ability to excite chords of controversy season upon season and in recently, under the direction of Jeremy Scott, walks a thin line between fashion and pop art. He has garnered a reputation that incorporates elements of both court jester and streaks of maverick genius. This is the sort of combination only ever found in enfant terribles of Scott’s ilk. His appointment as Moschino’s creative director in October 2013 felt befitting of a house where irreverence for industry trends has held a firm part of their heritage.
House founder, Francisco Moschino would frequently rattle audiences with collections that felt so subversive that they were seen as anti-fashion. He famously sent a couture gown down the runway made of garbage bags, and when questioned post-show behind the reasoning for doing so, he briskly retorted that the look was created because “fashion is trash”.
Scott’s Moschino is decidedly more puckish than Francisco’s. When asked if the fashion industry took itself too seriously in a 2013 interview, Jeremy Scott playfully jested “it’s just fashion, people. You’re not meant to see it as church and pray to a blouse.” The media storms that often accompany the aftermath of Scott’s shows tend to undervalue the wit and the thoughtful messaging within the collections so in light of this, we take a look back at seven of his most scandalous shows:
I’m loving it – AW14
This collection embodied Scott’s tongue ‘n’ chic ethos to its summit. He matched looks hyperbolising classic Chanel silhouettes with the unmistakable ruby-red and gold glow of the McDonald’s colour palette to create a collection that visually jarred and left audiences feeling salty.
“We girls can do anything” – SS15
Scott’s SS15 collection featured platinum blonde wigs and minidress galore, with Barbie being his not-so-secret muse. He also managed the seemingly impossible, making hot pink even hotter as he sent a model down the runway in rollerblades to create a ‘ready-for-action’ Barbie mood. The exuberant and intentionally saccharine colour scheme transport its viewer back to the vivid palettes children are introduced to and an apt motif to evoke the spirit of never-ending fun which Scott appears to permanently crave.
Etch-a-sketch – SS19
Scott used this collection to taunt the feverish pace of that the fashion industry requires its professionals to function at declaring that his commitments left him too little time to design a ‘real’ collection. Scribbles, sketch-scrawls and squiggles adorned the collections pieces as though they had been shaded in a desperate hurry with giant marker pens. Perhaps high fashion’s distance from fast fashion isn’t as drastic as it may sometimes appear.
Not so Extra-Terrestrial – AW18
The clothing from this show seemed to be fairly low-key for the Jeremy Scott we know. The collection used mature, conservative-cut looks and also lacked his customary splashes of cartoon imagery, but in spite of this the show swirled into backlash after Scott had several models painted head-to-toe in shades of powder-blue, goblin-green and oompa-loompa gold and labelled them as ‘Aliens’. This was perceived by some as “negligent and ignorant” of President Trump’s ‘zero-tolerance’ immigration policy.
Vase life – SS18
Scott showed over 50 looks, he first 34were an ensemble of ballet-ready tulle skirts contrasted with goth touches including studded chokers and a lot of black leather. Scott then flipped the switch on his audience by juxtaposing his pretty take on punk with staggeringly, delicate dresses which made the model appear as though they were incorporated as part of a flower arrangement.
Handle with care – AW17
In life we are often advised to think outside the box, but for AW17 Scott thought about the box itself. Many of the show’s early looks were a luxe take on the humble, cardboard box with many looks coming wrapped in that familiar shade of package-brown. Kendall Jenner opened the show in a suede jacket that had contrasting strips of tobacco-coloured patent leather running down its length to give the effect of parcel tape. The looks that followed included a mackintosh trench with packaging information printed on it and a logo t-shirt that had been printed to give the appearance that it was made out of crumpled brown paper.
Watch where you’re going – SS16
Traffic cone headpieces, roadside diagonal-stripe piping and stop-sign handbags were all highlights from a very hi-vis SS16 collection. Scott’s playfulness hit full speed down the motorway styled runway as neon yellow, orange and 3M reflective material were used to subvert the quintessentially elegant womenswear cuts. Christobal Balenciaga couture-esque dresses were finessed ironically with yellow ‘Caution’ tape as Scott’s visual humour escaped all the traffic.