Although crochet—the craft of interlocking loops of yarn using a hook utensil—might call to mind fussy doilies or itchy patchwork blankets, the Covid-induced crafting boom has ushered in a wave of young, predominantly female designers, who are creating and distributing detailed made-to-measure crochet garments from the comfort of their bedrooms. In the age of spending more time indoors, search the hashtag ‘crochet’ on Instagram and 26 million-plus posts crop up. And luxury brands are also in on the trend—last week Marni Market dropped exquisite crochet handbags with colourful geometric motifs rendered in cotton. Behold—the crochet revolution is upon us.
One such designer steering this new wave is London-based @n00rvana, whose custom made crochet and knit pieces garner thousands upon thousands of likes on Instagram. A recent design, an intricate crochet corset, for example, recalls the splendour of ceremonial court clothing, all the while maintaining the sex appeal of lingerie. It’s pieces like this that are transforming crochet’s fusty, domestic connotations into something cool, youthful and subversive. It’s no surprise then that the handicraft also features in the latest collection from unisex and one-size label, No Sesso. The LA label’s founder, Pierre Davis, told Vogue that she aims to revive artisanal styles—No Sesso’s AW20 collection, A Vignette of the Renaissance on 24th Street, is entirely handcrafted and upcycled involving knitwear, patchwork and of course, crochet. Much like the craft tradition, No Sesso is driven by notions of collaboration, and so, crochet—as an art form—sits at ease with a progressive brand striving to shatter gender norms. Similarly, Jessie—the designer behind “inclusive, eco-friendly brand” @joopsieclothing—hopes to utilise the versatile shapes that the craft can yield in order to “make the unisex appeal of crochet clearer.”
Left: No Sesso AW20 via @nosessola. Right: Crochet bag courtesy of Marni Home Market.
Whilst crochet has suffered under the art world’s impulse to render ‘craft’ somehow lesser than fine art, textile artist, Jose Dammers, celebrated for her ornate crochet collars, is inspired by the oil paintings of Dutch masters—Dammers’ unique creations imitate the splendid lace designs portrayed in paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Vermeer. Meanwhile, bright distinctive daisies reminiscent of the 60’s ‘Flower Power’ movement distinguish the work of another young designer, @gimmekaya. “My clothing is comfy but sassy, and makes people feel confident, which is ultimately my aim,” the Leeds-based designer tells SLEEK. Kaya is grateful that crochet provides “a replacement to scrolling on my phone,” as well as fostering an appreciation of “just how much time and effort goes into making clothing.”
Elsewhere—using the power of the ‘crocheted-word’—‘craftivists’ such as @yarnachist lobby for positive change, stitching together banners as a gentle yet durable mode of resistance. Describing herself as “queer anti-fash crochet punk babe” @yarnachist crochets flags, buntings and banners woven with socially-conscious statements—“Save the NHS”, “Make space for homeless queers”, “Trans rights are human rights” and “Solidarity”—emphasising the craft’s radical potential.
While the process of crochet is time consuming, the increasing demand for slow fashion continues to cast a shadow on the failures of fast fashion—purchasing made-to-measure, bespoke pieces directly from designers promises ethical buys in comparison. Perhaps, best of all, crochet promotes a personal, enduring relationship to clothing. Custom pieces accentuate each body’s uniqueness, and the price and delicacy of handmade items encourages buyers to cherish, repair, and pass down their crochet garments to future generations. Infinitely resourceful, this new generation of crochet artists prove that the subversive possibilities of the craft are only just beginning.