How would a typically understated fashion designer like Dries Van Noten commemorate his 100th show? That was the question on everyone’s mind yesterday, before the commemorative AW17 show at PFW. The Belgian designer and alumni of the revolutionary “Antwerp 6” collective responded impressively, with a rehash of his favourite prints from the archive, and perhaps the most impressive casting seen on the runway in recent years.
In attendance on the catwalk were all the supermodels that have walked for him in the past. Van Noten told the New York Times a few days ago that “When I started, all the models were smiling. That stopped about halfway through the ’90s”. The smiles were definitely back yesterday, as the biggest faces in the industry beamed and nodded to the rows of press and buyers, wowed by a line-up that included Alek Wek, Amber Valletta, Carolyn Murphy and Erin O’Connor to name a few.
The collection celebrated everything he has become treasured for in the industry. In true Van Noten style, the accessories were standout – delicate shoes were given giant crystal heels, while white ’60s boots were framed by his signature manly tailoring and vivid Klimt-esque prints. To see so much runway royalty in one go was overwhelming for an audience of fashion fans.
But perhaps the most moving part was witnessing a designer, in an age where the major Maisons routinely rehaul their entire style, quietly stating his significance with a grown-up collection that could only come from him. To be allowed to grow in this industry, and hone your craft and identity over many years is fast becoming a rarity. For once, the fashion-set put their phones in their pockets for a much-deserved round of applause, and rarely-seen standing ovation.
