L-R: Saul Nash, Goom Heo, and Nensi Dojaka AW20. Photography: Chris Yates.
Post-Brexit, a sombre wave of uncertainty may be sweeping across London Fashion Week (Vogue Business recently reported that a future lack of EU safe guards over intellectual property rights, change in laws regarding freedom of movement and the threat of export tariffs are potentially set to put the UK fashion industry into a precarious position), but despite this, there were still many good things to see over the weekend. On Saturday, Saul Nash, Nensi Dojaka, Ancuta Sarca, Gareth Wrighton and Goom Heo— presenting as part of emerging talent initiative Fashion East—brought a wave of bright possibility to proceedings. Here are our takeaways.
Nensi Dojaka
Albanian-born Nensi Dojaka may have only graduated with an MA in womenswear from Central Saint Martins last summer, but her intelligently composed take on sexy feminine clothing is setting her apart. Dojaka’s slinky dresses with spaghetti straps are complicated with ruching in unexpected places, quirky drapery, sheer panelling, and fabrics patch-worked together. Arguably, her design ethos was most compellingly carried out in the matching hosiery: sheer tights were wrinkled and tied with loops of thick thread, transforming a garment ordinarily associated with female sensuality into something strange and surprising, even bordering on the grotesque.
Saul Nash
Much like Dojaka, Saul Nash expresses a sensitive understanding of clothes that’s uncommon in the industry. Where Dojoka casts a discerning eye towards lingerie and the fashion tropes of conventional feminine sex appeal, Nash takes sportswear as his starting point but moves beyond its narrow confines. Instead, he crafts streetwear from what could be a soft cluster of clouds: the fabrics are padded and cushiony, the palette—a dreamy wash of silver grey, ice white and sky blue interspersed with moody maroons and blacks; the construction equally thoughtful: fuss free fronts without zips or buttons. But even more so than the clothes, Nash, who is also a dancer, was commended for his moving dance presentation that recast the idea of a “London gang” into something bound by tenderness as opposed to violence.
Ancuta Sarca
For the past year, Romanian-born London-based designer Ancuta Sarca has been making waves with her upcycled kitten heels that remodel Nike sneakers into dainty slip-on heels. For this season, she presented a slightly cyborgian take on sportswear with asymmetrical shorts and bandeau tops finished with mesmerising eye makeup and shimmering fake talons. On the feet, she introduced new takes on her viral designs with loafers and ankle boots making a very welcome appearance.
Gareth Wrighton
Gareth Wrighton’s collections continue in a long tradition of colourful London fashion entrenched in anti-establishment, punk values. In his latest Fashion East offering the CSM graduate took on America with cheerleading skirts and striped socks; a knitted jumper stating “Vote for Bush”. Here, the visceral boldly intruded: a plastic chicken crudely placed on the genitals; a bloodied nose and the final look dribbled in a Pollock-esque splattering of mustard and ketchup.
Goom Heo
Presenting for the first time as part of Fashion East, South Korean designer Goom Heo showcased an update on her CSM MA collection. While menswear might well and truly be having a moment, in Heo’s hands it feels particularly subversive, combining tailoring with bizarre knitting—rippled with zig-zags; tight bodysuits and sheer details sit side by side swaths of flittering fabric. Here, menswear assumes a new potential as zany, colourful and far-reaching—watch this space.
All photography copyright Chris Yates.