Image Courtesy of Katharina Prößl.
Considering fashion’s ability to intersect with other art forms, fkk, a Berlin-based art space whose suggestive name connotes both everything and nothing, is giving the fashion show a new definition. Presented on June 29th, distancing the concept of what a runway has to be from consumeristic ideals, the event, conceptualized by Guillermina Burgos Fischer, emphasized slow fashion; featuring looks that were still in progress or unfinished, designers placed a value on phases of creativity that are often overlooked.
Image Courtesy of Katharina Prößl.
When taking in the space, located in Friedrichshain, viewers saw models, models, models. As the show began, the spectators fell quiet, their conversation quickly replaced by the dj’s agenda. In only their underwear, a line of models walked out of the back of a box truck which was parked outside of the venue. They proceeded to weave their way through the space, leaving the audience captivated as the designers dressed them up, draping their designs live.
From then, revealed seams and raw hems floated around, drifting through the amassing crowd of onlookers. Sheer fabrics and drawstrings were featured, creating playful tops and dresses. The mostly neutral color palette of the garments contrasted some models’ dyed bright hair, and was elevated by the eclectic mix of footwear, which included cult favorite tabis of course.
Image Courtesy of Katharina Prößl.
Monitors were placed around each room, using CCTV to broadcast footage of the performances going on in other sections of the space. Those watching the show from outside also had access to the screens, which revealed the performance in a regard strongly referencing the Margiela Fall/Winter 1997 VHS. Blending in with the audience, the film crew, Mila Kreft-Sietnicka and Daria Kostina, captured ‘imperfect’ iPhone-type videos presenting all of the action. Just as important as the garments were the elements of set design, music, and graphic design. Building the world into which the audience was invited, the collaborators on this project ensured the cohesion of the performance, highlighting the codependent nature of fashion and how it can be utilized, made into an asset rather than a fault.
Image Courtesy of Katharina Prößl.
As the show came to a close, there was also something quite temporal about the progression of events, only allowing viewers to take in the looks for a small amount of time before they were packed away once again; one by one, the models came to stand outside of the venue, facing the windows which dotted the front of the building. By this point, the crowd was glued, attempting to peer around or over the person in front of them, trying their best to get any glimpse of the excitement going on. There was a round of applause as the models took their last lap, and fully dressed, they made their way back into the box truck. Following the performance, it only took moments for the people to resume chatting, heading toward the bar, and finding their friends. Though the show was over, the music by artist Médar, continued, bringing people together to discuss ideas and thoughts about what they had encountered.
Image Courtesy of Katharina Prößl.
There were four designers involved in the show: Elizaveta Efimova, Freja Cecilie Riemann, Anika Schneider, and Alea Richter. All current students at notable fashion universities, they are combining notions of nostalgia for 90’s trends with elements of the Berlin scene today. When looking at the garments presented, it was clear that the commonality among the group was the willingness to experiment with textile manipulations and draping. This allowed for looks that did not conform to conventional ideals of the industry, pushing the boundaries of perceived fashion.
The key in the conversation taking place between designer and spectator during a runway is ensuring that the clothes are able to speak. The format in which the garments were presented at fkk last Thursday acts as a template for just that. Ideating a collaborative performance with a focus on building community, the art space hones in the future of design as the lines between artistic disciplines become increasingly blurred.
Images Courtesy of Katharina Prößl.