Valentine Gauthier Autumn/Winter 2015/16, courtesy of Valentine Gauthier
Valentine Gauthier is one of those fashion designers who knows how to combine party with formal wear, and geometry with animal prints. Perhaps her background can explain how, as she came to design through modelling, after studying ethnology and eco-engineering. Gauthier’s women’s collections include garments that can be lustrous and environmentally friendly, casual yet elegant.
Having seen Valentine Gauthier’s Morocco-inspired collection for Autumn/Winter 2015, we decided to find out how her diverse interests influence her creative process and who her fashion icons are.
Portrait of Valentine Gauthier, courtesy of the designer
Could you tell us more about the daily occurrences that inspired your latest collection?
Everything inspires me in my daily life. For this collection, I especially felt like discovering the Atlas Mountains with all their traditions, landscapes and colours. The contrast between the mountains covered in snow, the Oukaimeden’s ski slopes and the spacious dimensions of the Moroccan desert are expressed in the geometrical abstraction of the latest collection.
Did you work with any new materials? Which ones and why?
This season I used the technical iridescent neoprene to make trousers, skirts and shoes. Furthermore, I used Sport Loden for quilted sweaters, which evokes skiwear of the early Eighties. A further theme of this collection is a crane embroidery made of colourful yarn used for Kimonos, tops and sweaters. I reedited designs of reflected water and shiny sand made of handmade sequined embroidery. Besides, I played with geometry, animal prints as well as waffle-weaved denim, which should give an idea of a style between Bedouin & Samurais.
Valentine Gauthier Autumn/Winter 2015/16, courtesy of Valentine Gauthier
How would you describe the woman you design for?
Elegant, nonchalant, arty, rebellious, sexy but natural, boyish, headstrong and with the taste for “savoir vivre”.
How did your modelling career influence you as a designer?
The modelling gave me the chance to gain a look behind the scenes. It was a great and touching experience to give life to the creations by Martin Margiela, Rochas, Oliver Theyskens as well as to be a part of the presentations at Hyères Festival. This time is one of my best memories.
Valentine Gauthier Autumn/Winter 2015/16, courtesy of Valentine Gauthier
The shiny brass-coloured suit is fantastic. How important is it for you to mix masculine and feminine features in garments?
A woman can be even more beautiful without intensifying her femininity, but rather by learning to play with her androgyny.
In which fashion events can we expect to see your collection?
We’re preparing a presentation of our Spring/Summer 2016 collection. It’s going to take place at a gorgeous artist’s atelier, where Robert Doisneau used to work.
Interview by Will Furtado