Glenn Martens’ Diesel debut is a quirky take on the brand’s heritage

A woman’s face, framed by a crop of bright red hair, fills the screen. For a second, she is in what appears to be a peaceful sleep. Yet from her deep slumber, she is suddenly jolted awake and immediately thrown into the midst of a raucous party. Couples make out, friends dance, disco lights pulse incessantly. This opening scene sets the dreams versus reality theme which runs throughout Frank Lebon’s short film for Diesel’s Spring/Summer 2022 launch.

The artist and director’s fantastical approach is fittingly apt for such a bold new clothing collection. Glenn Martens, as Diesel’s recently appointed creative director, has plunged headfirst into his role, injecting a much needed dose of hedonism and thrill into the Italian fashion brand. As one of the most anticipated shows of Milan fashion week, Martens hasn’t disappointed.

In a sentence, he manages to find the sweet spot between wearable and adventurous. Not an easy feat. Remember 2000s Diesel? Back in its heyday, low rise cuts, sassy denim items and a youthful spirit dominated the style. Perhaps the best way to describe Martens’ new collection is this: try to imagine those same iconic looks but in the context of the 21st Century. His collection is a contemporary reimagination of Diesel’s distinctive and idiosyncratic history: retro graphic T-shirts, trompe l’oeil effect dresses, stonewash blue miniskirts, thigh-high stiletto denim boots and distressed jeans are all back. Notable points of departure since the Noughties include an all-gender approach, and the newly introduced Diesel Library – a sustainable denim made-to-stay collection component.

The Library is meant to act as a fundamental baseline for each seasonal collection and will remain permanent. It reflects the company’s new sustainability-forward mantra, providing clothing types and items that may be bought less often—and worn longer. This launch marks a step in Martens’ evolution of Diesel, continuing its position as a power player in defining the culture, trends and attitudes towards a sustainable fashion future.

In a sentence, he manages to find the sweet spot between wearable and adventurous. Not an easy feat. Remember 2000s Diesel? Back in its heyday, low rise cuts, sassy denim items and a youthful spirit dominated the style. Perhaps the best way to describe Martens’ new collection is this: try to imagine those same iconic looks but in the context of the 21st Century. His collection is a contemporary reimagination of Diesel’s distinctive and idiosyncratic history: retro graphic T-shirts, trompe l’oeil effect dresses, stonewash blue miniskirts, thigh-high stiletto denim boots and distressed jeans are all back. Notable points of departure since the Noughties include an all-gender approach, and the newly introduced Diesel Library – a sustainable denim made-to-stay collection component.

The Library is meant to act as a fundamental baseline for each seasonal collection and will remain permanent. It reflects the company’s new sustainability-forward mantra, providing clothing types and items that may be bought less often—and worn longer. This launch marks a step in Martens’ evolution of Diesel, continuing its position as a power player in defining the culture, trends and attitudes towards a sustainable fashion future.

Looking deeper into the collection, stand out pieces include an oversized upcycled organza overcoat, “dresses” made from asymmetric tops and skirts belted together, cowboy boots and five pocket denim trousers – perfect for when you need to leave your backpack at home.

As our red headed protagonist in Lebon’s film heads from party to street, to elevator, to fictional planet, the designs and fashions she comes across become our only constant. For the entire collection, though filled with original, individual pieces are perfectly united in its clever approach to design and avant-garde aesthetic. As we enter the early 2020’s in a new world paradigm, Diesel’s Spring/Summer collection is the wardrobe we didn’t know we needed.