Haderlump: Der Himmel über Berlin

SLEEK:  What does the name ‘Haderlump’ mean?

JOHANN EHRHARDT: Our name is unconventional; it simply sounds intriguing in the context of fashion and this was exactly what immediately resonated with us. It is meaningful because it brings back an old German term once used for travelling traders who dealt in second-hand fabrics, which really speaks to the core of our brand – we primarily work with used materials or dead stock in our studio. Yet it also means nothing, because we stumbled upon the name by chance during research and found sounded intriguing. We also like the paradox that ‘Haderlump’ now represents progressive, handcrafted fashion and breaks away from its original meaning. We often play with reframing existing ideas in our work.

S: Can you describe your design process, from the initial idea for a collection to the actual show?

JE: It might sound banal, but our design process starts with the world and the impressions we gather from it. These impressions could be objects we come across that captivate us with their craftsmanship, or cultural settings defined by a unique mindset. Our AERO collection, for instance, began with Johann catching a random glimpse of the Berlin sky. A collection then evolves through translating these impressions into fashion, where these images merge with the designs. Our design process includes ideas for the final show from the very start – how we envision the show influences the work on each look. You could say that, without the show, there is no design process. We are content with our work when what we envision aligns with the story our fashion tells on the runway.

S: Are certain types of material or fabric especially important to you, and if so, why?

JE: For us, fabrics and materials are more than just fibre, texture, surface, or look. While those qualities are crucial, we select fabrics and materials more for their potential to intensify effects. Hard materials like denim or recycled, tough cowhide look almost like armour. But we also work with delicate fabrics like silk, which flows beautifully on the body. For the AERO collection, we incorporate parachute fabric with visually intriguing qualities. Nowadays, you would not want to bet your life on this type of fabric when jumping out of a plane, but it definitely belongs on the street. The key is that materials and fabrics tell stories of their own.

S: For this shoot, you worked with Sven Marquardt. How did this collaboration come about?

JE: Our views on creativity and artistic expression share similar foundations. Sven’s visual world is rooted in a deep sensitivity to people and their identities, which is also vital to our work. The poetry in his photographic work captivated us. Sven’s persona and intimate artistic language have long been a role model and source of inspiration for us, so we are quite proud to be able to work with him now. He came to see our last show, and from there, things just seemed to fall into place naturally.

S: What is the idea behind the photoshoot?

JE: The guiding concept for the shoot is ‘The Sky Above Berlin’, which can take on so many different faces. It is changeable, sometimes threatening, sometimes euphoric, and often something in between. It has an immediate effect on the city’s mood and is therefore very powerful. The Berlin sky, as an idea for a photoshoot, is just as complex and full of impressions as we want our fashion to be. Sven captures that complexity in his images perfectly.

S: Does this shoot also set the tone for a future collection?

JE: This photoshoot is more about capturing something in the here and now rather than setting a tone for the future. It is an artistic expression of our DNA under creative direction. Future collections could be considered updates to our DNA. In that sense, this shoot opens a window of new possibilities; it creates spaces we can fill with meaning in the future.

S: As a brand, is it more important for you to keep evolving or to stay true to your DNA?

JE: The trick is to do both – to view evolution as part of our DNA. We are currently working on understanding the range of core moods in our fashion more deeply. This process is never-ending; the culture around us is always changing, revealing new facets along the way. For instance, in these globally turbulent times, many people have an intense need for security. We reflect that in our fashion. But how people will engage with the idea of protection in the future is anyone’s guess. Our ‘source material’ and potential for development are, in a way, endless.

S: What is your big goal for Haderlump in the future?

JE: We would love to contribute to Berlin’s urban history, to become a part of the city’s cultural mosaic. Beyond that, a big aim is to make Berlin more visible internationally through our work. In terms of fashion, we strive to find an aesthetic language that captures our current times and creates an impact. Naturally, we are working with and within the tools and boundaries of fashion. If we can continue to use these tools with consideration and purpose, we will have taken a significant step forward.

CREDITS

Photography: Sven Marquardt
Styling: Liv Sillinger
Creative Direction: Johann Ehrhardt, Sven Marquardt
Production: Julius Weissenborn
Photographer Assistant: Hardy Paetke
Hair & MakeUp: Saskia Krause
MakeUp Assistant: Paula Ehrhardt
Talents: Henry via IZAIO, Miri, Robe via TIGERSmgmt, Samja via DEEBEEPHUNKY