Hien Le opened this season of the Berlin Fashion Week with a show that left his dedicated followers unable to deliver an immediate verdict. It is a challanging colleciton that shows the designer’s own development, while highlighting his strengths and stamping his signature.
Drawing inspiration from Rothko’s colour-blending techniques, Hien Le began experimenting with the juxtaposition of not only colours, but also fabrics this season. Knitted angora sweaters came with mohair, crochet and silk details vertically sewn on, while pieces of outerwear were made using a plush-like material, creating a beautiful loose effect on cocoon coats and on bomber jackets. The handsome pieces were paired with the delicate, elegant jewelery of Vibe Harslof, like a silken shirt-dress (pictured above) which integrated a piece as a belt hugging part of the waist. Another highlight was a shirtdress dyed with an array of colours such as pigeon grey, turquoise blue, copper, marine and bronze – a colour combination that kept reappearing during the show.
For women, a range of beige dresses and short pleated skirts looked refined yet easy to pull off, while for men, Le introduced high-waisted pants (à la Jean Seberg in Breathless) and deep cut grey and marine blue mohair sweaters. The cream-beige-eggshell-off-white colour scheme ruled supreme, which seemed befitting, as snow was falling quietly outside the tent.
All in all, Hien Le has shown a more courageous side of his designer skills this time, paring his trademark casual chic garments with more daring pieces. Will it be too daring for Berliners?