Pitti Uomo 107 in Florence has once again set the stage for the evolution of men’s fashion, kicking off a vibrant season of style and creativity. The event, which has been a cornerstone of the fashion calendar since its inception in the 1970s, differentiates itself from the more mainstream fashion weeks in Milan and Paris by championing interdisciplinary concepts. Over four dynamic days, Pitti Uomo blends traditional trade fair elements with design talks, captivating exhibitions, and fashion shows staged in some of Florence’s most extraordinary venues. SLEEK takes a closer look at five standout moments from this season.
Image Courtesy of MM6 Margiela.
MM6 Maison Margiela
MM6 Maison Margiela brings its signature experimental edge to Pitti Uomo as guest designer. The Autumn-Winter 2025 collection explores masculinity through bold tailoring and unconventional textures, all filtered through the influence of Miles Davis. From plastified knits and rubberized surfaces to faux mink fur and starry prints, the collection celebrates versatility and subversive glamour. Iconic wardrobe staples—bombers, trench coats, and denim—are reimagined in layered textures and man-made shines, balancing tradition with rebellion.
Image Courtesy of Giovanni Giannoni.
Setchu
Setchu’s FW25 collection highlights the beauty of reduction, drawing inspiration from origami and Japanese aesthetics. Designer Satoshi Kuwata’s East-meets-West philosophy manifests in modular pieces like transformable safari jackets and tailcoats. Garments seamlessly transition between forms, creating infinite styling possibilities. A monochromatic palette, punctuated by kimono-style silk jacquards, underscores inventive timelessness and functionality. Dense, tactile fabrics and a gender-neutral ethos reinforce Setchu’s message of simplicity as luxury.
Image Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli delivers a masterclass in tailored refinement with its FW25 collection, “Anamnesis.” The collection blends artisanal craftsmanship with modern styling, offering a harmonious fusion of tailored suits and casual elements like knitwear and denim. Rich autumnal tones and light, luxurious fabrics such as cashmere and quilted satin elevate the pieces. Innovative details bring a fresh perspective to timeless classics, reflecting Cucinelli’s vision of elegance balanced by everyday ease.
Image Courtesy of Molebo.
Molebo
Molebo carves out a distinct niche at Pitti Uomo by focusing solely on handcrafted belts. For the 2025 season, the Danish brand uses 100% traceable Danish leather and Italian hardware to create pieces that merge timeless craftsmanship with bold, playful designs. Molebo’s philosophy of blending heritage with cultural zeitgeist is evident in its Western-inspired aesthetics. Its commitment to local, sustainable production and artisanal excellence makes it a standout in an overlooked yet vital accessory category.
Image Courtesy of Ecoalf.
Ecoalf
Ecoalf’s FW25 collection showcases its commitment to sustainability with innovative materials like Circular Wool and fiber-to-fiber insulation. Outerwear and accessories made with Ocean Yarn, crafted from recycled ocean waste, highlight the brand’s dedication to turning waste into high-performance fashion. This season introduces vibrant knits and vegan sneakers with some of the industry’s lowest carbon footprints, alongside a bright color palette of red and blue to energize winter wardrobes. By reducing reliance on plastic-derived fabrics and promoting circular design, Ecoalf continues to set a benchmark for conscious fashion.