Atmosphere. Image Courtesy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.
Pitti Uomo 107 in Florence once again positioned itself as the epicenter of men’s fashion, heralding an exciting season marked by style innovation and creativity. Since its beginnings in the 1970s, the event has distinguished itself from mainstream fashion weeks like those in Milan and Paris by embracing interdisciplinary approaches and blending tradition with modernity. Over four engaging days, Pitti Uomo offers not only a trade fair experience but also design talks, immersive exhibitions, and runway shows set against the stunning backdrop of Florence’s historic venues. This edition highlighted the harmonious coexistence of timeless elegance and contemporary flair, showcasing everything from tailored double-breasted suits to avant-garde street style, and reinforcing Florence’s central role in shaping the future of menswear. SLEEK takes a look at five standout moments:
Image Courtesy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE
As Guest of Honor, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE transformed the Renaissance gardens of Villa Petraia into a living canvas. Titled Amid Impasto of Horizons, the collection explored the act of creation itself — garments inspired by the gestures and tools of painting: from richly layered brushstroke gradients and paint palette prints to pleated silhouettes that ripple like pigment in motion. “Painter’s Gear” utility vests and packable outerwear played with function, while tailored linen-like materials grounded the label’s signature fluidity.
The accompanying “OPEN STUDIO” exhibition blurred the line between atelier and gallery. Curated in collaboration with the Misawa Design Institute, the show revealed sculptural explorations of pleating and design development — more process than polish, but deeply poetic.
Image Courtesy of Niccolò Pasqualetti.
NICCOLÒ PASQUALETTI
At the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Niccolò Pasqualetti presented 33 looks that pushed the boundaries of sartorial logic. Swimwear peeked from under fatigue pants, sheer shirts revealed tank tops, and trousers opened at the shin. The silhouettes defied categorisation: capes slipped off the shoulder, shorts flared like skirts, and jewellery repeated like modular structures rather than mere ornament.
Built on the tension between control and disarray, Pasqualetti’s collection was less about resolution than rhythm — a lived-in language of queered formality, vulnerability, and constant becoming.
Image Courtesy of Molebo.
MOLEBO
With its third collection, Danish belt label Molebo continues to redefine leathercraft with confidence and care. Founded in 2024 and led by Creative Director Alexander Gram, the family-run brand presented a tight, elevated edit of sculptural belts at Fortezza da Basso. Handmade in Tommerup, Denmark — where three generations of artisans have worked — the belts reflect a commitment to local production and enduring design.
This season, Gram focuses on layered textures and vintage-inspired finishes, using LWG-certified full-grain leather and 100% traceable Danish hides in collaboration with SPOOR. It’s hardware with heritage — bold yet quiet, tactile yet timeless.
Image Courtesy of Tiger of Sweden.
TIGER OF SWEDEN
Back in Florence, Tiger of Sweden paid tribute to architect Carl Nyrén and his humanist approach to modernism. Designed in Stockholm, the SS26 menswear collection merged functionality with a sense of lightness — linen tailoring, tonal jacquards, and waxed cotton came together in quietly sculpted forms.
From soft-constructed double-breasted jackets to updated cargo pants and dry wax coats, the pieces reflected a clear-eyed minimalism. Accessories such as ruched-heel sneakers and sleek leather loafers added understated polish. It was a study in Scandinavian clarity — technical, tactile, and never overstated.
Image Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
Brunello Cucinelli’s The Shape of Light brought cultivated ease to the fore. The SS26 menswear collection embraced sun-drenched elegance through luxurious blends of wool, silk, and linen in an earthy, desaturated palette. Elongated blazers and wide-legged trousers nodded to ‘90s proportions, while fluid knits and soft tailoring spoke of effortlessness with precision.
Eveningwear was reimagined with subtle detail: tuxedo jackets with tone-on-tone lapels and casual silhouettes that whispered rather than shouted. Here, luxury wasn’t a statement — it was a texture, a mood, a shift in light.