Iceberg FW22 posters in Berlin. Image Courtesy of Iceberg.
The need to connect with consumers digitally in 2022 isn’t a new topic. Since the beginning of the pandemic, the emphasis on the digital presence has been at its peak, with brands seeking new, innovative ways to present their collections. It marked a point where we had little option but to embrace and utilise digital tools as our primary way of connection and communication. It’s needless to say that over the recent years, we’ve become more receptive to the digital alternative, and now more brands are re-considering the necessity of a traditional physical presentation.
Italian cult-outerwear brand Iceberg is one of these brands that are continuing to explore the connection through digital platforms, referring to it as a “guerrilla” format. Instead of opting for the usual show for their latest collection, Iceberg is releasing a selection of videos and posters on buildings, underpasses, park gates and bus stops in Milan, New York, Berlin and Paris, with a scannable QR code linking directly to iceberg.com on each poster. Since February the posters have found their way onto the streets, with more to come in various locations throughout March. “It’s all about forming a digital connection to the Iceberg world. I wanted the posters to feel like the catwalk was on the streets on these cities,” explains Creative Director James Long.
The Fall Winter 2022 womenswear collection is inspired by cyberpunk, club culture, dystopian ensembles, and materials like black leather, that breaks away from traditional dress codes and is complemented by a menswear collection that embodies a “survivalist combat” look in earthy tones and camouflage print that is juxtaposed with a pop of electric blue and sunlight yellows – a reference to Iceberg’s colourful palettes from the archive collections.
Over the fashion weeks, SLEEK spoke with Iceberg’s Creative Director, James Long on the history of the brand, dress codes, colours and inspirations.
Iceberg FW22 posters in Berlin. Image Courtesy of Iceberg.
SLEEK: Iceberg first launched in 1974 challenging the conventions of sportswear at the time. How is Iceberg redefining sportswear today?
James Long: It was a kind of luxury Italian sportswear reacting to clothes that are fashion and for leisure time. In some ways, this is still the goal. From now to then Iceberg has evolved so, the redefining is including the heart of the brand and making the modern reflection for now. Putting my own twist on these codes.
S: You once stated that you hate dress codes and now, the line between sportswear, everyday wear and even, workwear have become blurred. What do you consider when designing for a collection with these expectations?
JL: I really celebrate the individual and always have. I thing mix your clothes and be free with your choices. Dress codes and rules to do with clothes are for people with no interest in fashion or imagination.
Iceberg FW22. Image Courtesy of Iceberg.
S: There’s an emphasis on this collection transcending a particular season. What is the key to building a collection that is suitable for all seasons?
JL: I think there is so much of everything you just have to do what you believe in and what feels right. I like the idea of all seasons individual clothes.
S: Iceberg has been known for bright, bold colours and prints. However, this collection sees black & white and neutral palettes. What influenced these colour choices?
JL: Probably the pandemic, a pallet cleanse, I’m not scared of colour or neutrals. Things feel cold at the moment maybe it’s a reaction to that I tend to be quite reactive to the moment I’m living in with colour.
S: Iceberg has a history of referencing pop culture and this collection features Popeye. What was your favourite cartoon growing up?
JL: My favourite cartoon was Jem and The Misfits, actually. Closely followed by The Muppets – they were puppets but I loved them. I think cartoons have so much joy and artistry in them. I love studying all the sketches of different cartoon artists seeing the animation.
Iceberg FW22. Image Courtesy of Iceberg.
S: Let’s talk a little bit more about you. You joined Iceberg in 2015, what’s changed since then and now?
JL: Well, I was just the menswear show creative director then. Now, I do everything at Iceberg; mens, womens, knitwear, perfume, shoes, bags, all creative for Iceberg. I do a lot more which means the brand can feel as one. We have grown a bit together and settled.
S: This collection showcases real life posters and billboards across different major cities to give a sense of “being there without being there”. Why is it important to create this experience?
JL: I love travelling and wanted iceberg to be present in many cities so now we travel less this seemed like a perfect concept. To have a connection with the world outside.
S: Iceberg has been a supporter and figure behind many major sports. Looking at the involvement of the company and the histories it’s been a part of (re: Ayrton Senna’s win at Formula1 Grand Prix during Iceberg’s sponsorship, which was also referenced in your SS19 collection), what kind of histories or scenes do you see Iceberg being involved with in the future?
JL: Iceberg has a huge history in sport, music and popular culture, it seems a lot of these alliances came from a love of the brand so they are great to reference. Lewis Hamilton just wore Iceberg…they seem to come naturally rather than forced.
Iceberg FW22. Image Courtesy of Iceberg.
S: “Cyberpunk, club culture and dystopian ensembles” are the inspirations behind this collection. Besides these visual codes, what else has inspired you in the concept and creation process?
JL: The process of knitwear development is very inspiring the experimentation is thrilling. The ongoing task of defining your person is the real challenge. Being focused on what you are trying to achieve. Inspiration is daily my eyes are always open it’s just part of my life. Sometimes I go to certain exhibitions or sometimes it’s something I see on the street is having a personal conversation that keeps going improving. It’s like your own little library in your head. I think I was particularly looking at some of my Robert Mapplethorpe book during this season as well as many other things. I find travelling between Milan and London very inspiring the contrast and the clash’s are great to dissect.
S: On the topic of “clubwear,” a large influence comes from sports and technical wear. Comparing it to the days of disco as an example, what are your thoughts on our current views on “club culture” and what does this tell us about our approach to dress?
JL: I love the freedom of dressing for clubs, people experiment good and bad, weird and unusual, bougie and best of all, are fascinating.
S: Will Iceberg present at all in Milan?
JL: I would think so at some point as Italy is the home the brand. I love that I don’t feel the pressure to always do a show at Iceberg. Sometimes the collection is the show and time to do something different like this season.
Iceberg FW22 billboard in Milan. Image Courtesy of Iceberg.
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