Mumi Haiati by Jonas Lindstroem
“I have always been interested in society and the times we live in,” says Mumi Haiati, CEO of Berlin-based communications agency Reference Studios. In 2020, the times we live in have been more difficult than most, what with an unprecedented pandemic and a global protest against systemic racism taking hold. During coronavirus-induced social distancing, Haiati took some time to reconsider and reflect on what the future of the fashion industry might be and what Reference’s role might be in that too. Founded in 2017, with network offices in Milan and Paris, as well as Berlin’s Charlottenburg, Reference Studios have quickly put the German capital back on the fashion map, representing brands such as Kenneth Ize, Gentle Monster, 032c and Jet Set, and hosting 24-hour festival in a disused parking lot—Reference Berlin. We sat down with Haiati to find out more about how Reference Studios came about, what fascinates him, and what’s next.
Naomi Campbell walks Kenneth Ize's Paris debut show for F/W 2020, Shoji Fujii/Kenneth Ize.
What compelled you to start Reference Studios? What were the aims you had in mind initially? Was fashion always your main interest?
The aim was to come up with a truly comprehensive approach to brand building and PR with an international and contemporary take. I have been always interested in society and the times we live in. Fashion can reflect that in the best possible way. Socio-political aspects are very exciting to me. It’s understanding human beings and their condition. Fashion was always a main interest of mine, next to entertainment, pop and subcultural movements. They all belong to each other.
What have been some of your favourite projects to have worked on to date?
There have been too many, so I’ll just share those of the past year. These certainly include our experiential pop-up activation for our client Browns, which felt very rewarding as it took much inspiration from the inaugural edition of our festival. The opening moment for that was also brilliant, as it was hosted by Gucci and 032c at Berlin’s most exclusive China Club. More recently, we had a wild night for Armani at a sleazy karaoke bar, and of course, the moment Naomi strut down the runway at Kenneth Ize’s Paris debut. Can’t match that aura.
Gentle Monster x Frederik Heyman at Reference Berlin, Getty Images.
What advice, if any, would you offer to anyone hoping to start their own business, be in fashion or pr, or something else entirely.
Have a clear vision and be true to yourself. Have endurance and belief. Try to inspire rather than getting too inspired. You should have an understanding of what people and the industry really need. Do what you do genuinely.
What do you think makes Berlin’s fashion scene unique?
Berghain. Perhaps, it’s sort of distance from reality.
What fashion brands and personalities are you particularly excited by at the moment?
Our clients: emerging super talents Magliano and LeCavalier. Obviously Bottega Veneta by Daniel Lee, the mystery that’s Raf Simons at Prada, and I will always get excited and inspired by Michel Gaubert.
Fecal Matters and Isamaya Ffrench at The Opening Dinner for Reference Berlin, hosted by Gucci & 032c, by Maxime Ballesteros
What has been your own personal experience of the coronavirus crisis? How have you been keeping inspired and occupied?
I am reconnecting with friends from my teenage years, people that I hadn’t spoken to in 20 years. I am re-evaluating my needs in life. I am also watching more movies and meditating. And I am exploring all the natural reserves on my new bicycle. Those things really I would usually have a hard time making the time for.
In what ways do you think the pandemic will impact upon the fashion industry?
That’s the big question. I hope for more consideration, generally speaking. In fashion, I hope for a new sense of quality, an appreciation of craft and longevity, a new luxury, if you will. Essential glamour.
Honey Dijon at Calvin Klein's 50th Anniversary Party in Berlin, Samuel Smelty
It’s been nearly a month since the brutal murder of George Floyd on 25 May. Since then, protests have taken place against police brutality and systemic racism, and in support of the Black Lives Matter movement worldwide. What steps do you hope the fashion industry can take to be more inclusive and to fight systemic racism?
Black culture has such a strong presence and influence on our industry and its output. The industry needs to stop looking at black and brown cultures as a sole source of inspiration. Rather, these cultures need to reflect across the staffing of our companies and in higher management specifically. I know so many highly skilled people out there who have never been asked to take on such roles. If they are not represented, there is no way for a company to put out literally anything in a genuine manner—we need sincere perspectives to create equality. There is this idea of “exoticism” that’s very present and that needs to go – it’s a term that simply describes anything non-white.
What’s next in the pipeline for Reference?
There are exciting digital innovations that will co-exist with, and extend into real life. We’ve got the second edition of our festival coming up later this summer. Recently, we have moved into our new premises where exciting things are bound to happen, and of course, there’s our expansion to a leading fashion capital.