Courtesy of @tomford.
Menswear’s growing popularity right now seems to come from, well, quite simply, men having fun getting dressed. The fear of being judged for dressing “too feminine” has dissipated; men feel free to dress with flair and sophistication, the machismo that once dominated men’s style is slowly but surely disappearing. Artists and their communities are usually the first to campaign for progress, whether it is political or not. But fashion designers are beginning to test the waters and push the boundaries. Redefining masculinity is quite a task, one that must be approached head-on. A significant shift won’t happen because of clothing alone, but it’s an excellent place to start.
This week, Virgil Abloh, the much-discussed artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear and founder of Off-White, was posting photos of shoes he had designed on his Instagram Stories. I noticed his hand, gripping his new ‘90s skate shoe silhouette (think a puffy Osiris), his fingernails Shellacked in a dark grey. Meanwhile, skateboarder and it-boy Hawaiian model Evan Mock sported copped pink hair and a white crocodile Dior jacket in his IG stories; black nails making an appearance while gripping his iPhone 11 for a classic mirror selfie. The painted nail, once reserved for women and rockstars is becoming more common. Lou Reed and David Bowie would be pleased.
Gucci AW20. Courtesy of Gucci.
Looking through the Tom Ford collection at their showroom in Milan, the grey suits and black topcoats were beautiful as always. Still, the big hit, front and centre as you walked through the showroom door was a metallic pink three-piece suit, an almost slouchy ‘70s cut, perfect for the red carpet, perfect for awards season Brad Pitt or Harry Styles, if his Gucci contract ends. A significant and enjoyable departure from Ford, a designer who usually sticks to his refined and understated colour palette. Gucci’s opening look in Milan also featured a pair of unmissable flared metallic pants, this time in a Tin Man silver. The same style made a later appearance in electric green. All the colour this season feels optimistic and exciting and refreshingly unserious. I guess it’s time to shine.
The gradual progression from the briefcase, to tote bag, to fanny pack, to high-end designer bag has been interesting to watch. I ran into Josh Peskowitz, men’s fashion director for the luxury e-commerce retailer Moda Operandi, who was wearing a wine red Bottega Veneta Caessete bag. He was wearing it crossbody, under a voluminous printed overcoat, and it worked. Gucci showed a more substantial black bag worn with a cropped pea green sweater, plaid shirt, baggy ripped jeans, and mary-janes—a nod to ‘90s Seattle, with the messenger bag, replaced with something a bit more upmarket. Marni sent a smaller black bag down the runway, also worn under a large and loud red and blue striped coat. Men of all shapes and sizes, are or will be embracing this. A beautiful leather bag is a practical item and a vast money-making category for most designers, plus bulging pockets aren’t chic.
Left: A-Cold-Wall* AW20. Right: Off-White AW20.
But, the most prominent thing I have seen in Europe is a return to tailoring. A nod to classic menswear, updated and freaked for today’s more evolved, fluid, and adventurous customer. Roomier fits, bright hues, technical materials, bold patterns, it’s an easy silhouette to play with. They were everywhere: Abloh’s Off-White showed a bright red double-breasted number with unusual almost geometric cuts on the lapels and pocket flaps, Stefano Pilati’s Random Identities paired a loose crystal bra with a crisp white shirt and black suit, the more mature collection from Samuel Ross’s London-based A-Cold-Wall*, who showed in Milan this season, even featured one in teal blue nylon. Getting dressed up has never looked more relaxed and appealing.
The complexity of being a man in 2020 goes well beyond fashion. All of us should understand the need for systemic change—a transference towards realigning power structures, broader acceptance of those who are different than us, and a respect for basic humanity are necessary. But acknowledging this broader desire for a new way of being in the world has impacted upon fashion in terms of overthrowing outdated gendered constructs. The world is on fire, so why not dress as you please? Whether it’s bright and shiny colours, accessories, nail polish, or classic silhouettes that have been reimagined, the heavily-branded masculine streetwear trend is dying down, forcing men to express themselves with clothing, not a logo.