A look back at six decades of the Karl era

Cindy Crawford, Karl Lagerfeld, and Claudia Schiffer in 1993. Photo: Getty Images.

Karl Lagerfeld has been synonymous with luxury fashion for the last 65 years, playing an instrumental role in the houses of Fendi, Chloé and Chanel. Aside from Coco herself, Lagerfeld is the longest-reigning creative director of the iconic French brand, designing at the helm since 1985 and passing away in the position, like the label’s founder.  French media broke the news that the fashion legend had passed away in a Paris hospital after struggling with health issues, marking an end of an era for the fashion world.

The German-born designer forged his career alongside names like Yves Saint Laurent and continued to shape the industry trends until his death. Still, his legacy stretches beyond his designs, influencing how we think about and consume fashion. He is known for his grand catwalks that transformed Paris’ Grand Palais into a supermarket, a beach villa and an airport, but also for a public image that was unapologetic and highly curated.  His look was instantly recognisable, with his signature white ponytail, suit jacket, large sunglasses and leather gloves – give or take the white Birman cat, Choupette – but so is his dry humour and headstrong philosophies on fashion, art and everyday life. “I am like a caricature of myself, and I like that. It is like a mask. And for me the Carnival of Venice lasts all year long,” the Chanel head once said to The Observer. Lagerfeld credits span from photography, to diet books and costuming for everyone from director Barbet Schroeder to the La Scalla opera house. SLEEK takes a look back at six defining moments of the Lagerfeld era:

Winning the 1954 Woolmark Prize alongside Yves Saint Laurent

Karl Lagerfeld & Yves Saint Laurent at the Wool Secretariat

Aged 18 and with no formal training in art or design, Lagerfeld entered Paris’ Wool Secretariat competition (today known as the the International Woolmark Prize) and won the coat category. That same year, Yves Saint Laurent — then a young designer too — won the dress category.

Joining Patou as Artistic Director

Karl Lagerfeld at Jean Patou. Photo: Regina Relang, 1959.

After this initial success, it didn’t take long for the young Lagerfeld to break into the fashion industry. Following an apprenticeship at Balmain, the German-born designer was hired at Patou in 1959, where he would spend four years as artistic director.

Taking-over at Chloé

Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé, 1974.

But it wasn’t until the 1970s that Lagerfeld truly made his mark, at the Paris-based label Chloé. The designer originally joined the brand in 1964, and became close to the founder, Gaby Aghion. His 1973 spring collection, particularly, is remembered for its loose Spencer jackets and printed silk shirt-jackets, forever shaping the international success of the brand.

The Chanel Era

In 1985 Lagerfeld took over the reigns of Chanel, taking Ines de la Fressange as his muse and overhauling the brand.

Returning to Chloé

Left: Christy Thurlington for Chloe, 1994. Right: Linda Evangelista Chloe AW 95.

From 1992-1997 Lagerfeld took back his main designer position at Chloé to create some of the brand’s most iconic 90’s runways, while maintaining his lead design roles at both Fendi and Chanel.

The Fendi Baguette

2000s-era Fendi was immortalised by the Sex and the City episode where Carrie’s Fendi Baguette is stolen. Although Lagerfeld had headed up Fendi since the ’60s, the craze for the Baguette in the 2000s under his direction gave new life to the Italian brand famously known for their furs.

Chanel Couture SS 19

Vittoria Ceretti for Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2019. Courtesy Chanel.

The last Chanel Couture show with Lagerfeld at the helm was sent down the runway in January, a month before the creative director’s death. Lagerfeld was too ill to make the show, but even in his absence he brought glitter and glamour to the proceedings.

He will be missed.