All images courtesy LES BENJAMINS.
In his ninth book, Shadow of the Silk Road, travel writer Colin Thubron journeys along the world’s first great trade route, in an escapade beginning in Central China and concluding in Kurdish Turkey. When attempting to condense this gargantuan odyssey into a single sentence, his best effort comes in the form of a contextually subversive metaphor, “the road forks and wanders wherever you are. It is not a single way, but many: a web of choices”.
It is this aspect of choice, or more specifically the rich-degree of variety offered by the Silk Road that Bunyamin Aydın has honed in on for his brand’s SS21 collection. LES BENJAMINS sits in the pocket of fashion that marries elements of capital ‘F’ fashion with streetwear staples. This area has been given a variety of labels over the last decade but is generally addressed as street-couture. It’s a space where the divide between its two guiding parameters lends the creator dimensions to create a bridge between two established design codes.
Aydın has taken advantage of this, by placing a conscious effort to create a walkway where both the abstract and tangible representations of the Silk Road can exist. There are literal references, perhaps most overtly displayed in the camel print adorning several pieces but the subtle features denoting thematic cultural motifs towards Anatolian rock is where Aydın raises this collection’s ceiling. As his brand begins to roll out the aforementioned ‘Silk Roads Delivery Services’ collection, Aydın spoke about the role his personal heritage plays in LES BENJAMINS’ design process, not feeling pressured to rejuvenate rock’n’roll clichés and how a new wave of young Istanbul-based creatives are inspiring him.
Your background is Turkish, and the collection proudly celebrates the Turkish cultural heritage — why did you choose a French name for your label?
It’s complicated. I’m a German citizen with parents of Turkish heritage. I grew up in a small town called Neuss. At age 12, my family decided to move to Istanbul, and at age 15, I moved to Lugano, Switzerland, and since I was 19, I’ve been living in Istanbul again.
As you can see, my childhood and teenage years are all over the place. I see myself as a global citizen. Paris is my favourite city, and it’s the capital of fashion for me. Paris inspires Les Benjamins and my name Bunyamin which means Benjamin.
I’m interested in the musical influence behind this collection — you’ve drawn on the Anatolian rock, a fusion of 70s Western rock and Turkish folk. How did you balance the Eastern/Western influences in your design process?
The most important part of designing a collection for me is research and development. It’s was very important for me to understand what Baris Manco, 3 Hurel, Cem Karaca, Selda Bagcan, and many other talented Anatolian rock artists were inspired by. The beauty of music and fashion is the fusion of things. I did not want my collection to be costume-like. If Baris Manco would be alive today, this is what he could be wearing.
Anatolian rock album covers inspired many graphics and panels that I have used on denim jackets and hoodies. Every piece has, at the very least, taken some inspiration from Anatolian rock, which converges with today’s street culture-inspired silhouettes. It’s an interpretation of how I would like to dress Anatolian rock artists today.
The beauty of music and fashion is the fusion of things. I did not want my collection to be costume-like. If Baris Manco would be alive today, this is what he could be wearing.
The classic rock’n’roll inspired cuts have become a much referenced visual trope. How do you rejuvenate this fashion cliché?
Actually, I love classics. Sometimes the challenge is not to rejuvenate this fashion cliché.
The brand is intended as a “vision of the contemporary East,” which often is a way of essentially saying “the Westernised East.” Is that something you have in mind when designing your collection?
Youth culture in the East inspires Les Benjamins and me. Youth in the East are all digitally connected and have their own subculture movements. We are more connected than ever. I feel like separating the East and West or mixing the East and West are traditional concepts. The new wave of young creatives in the East are unique and possess their own perspective. For them, I’m Benji, and Les Benjamins is a platform for them to express their own lifestyle. We need to stop putting things in boxes. Everyone is beautiful in their own way.
The new wave of young creatives in the East are unique and possess their own perspective.
How do you reconcile your Eastern heritage with the influence of your formative years spent in Germany? How does the fact that you spent the first and most pivotal formative years of your life in a Western country affect your perception of your roots?
My roots in my family and me being a German citizen is equally important to me. I’m proud to be German and also proud of my Turkish heritage. I guess this blend inspired me to be the designer I am today and launch Les Benjamins. The cities I lived in, such as Neuss, Istanbul, and Lugano, were very pivotal. The German education I have is also an essential part of who I am.
You can explore the entire Silk Road-inspired SS21 collection from Les Benjamins here.